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Phantome

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Posts posted by Phantome

  1. On 3/23/2018 at 3:03 PM, Chimpion said:

    The directors are legally obliged to prioritise shareholder value. If that is in conflict with providing a product or service, they're in the wrong business.

     

    Not in Germany, which has a stakeholder rather than a shareholder style system of corporate governance.

     

    So let's all keep our fingers crossed that if they do change hands, they do to a company that isn't from the shareholder-obsessed Anglo-Saxon world.

    • Like 4
  2. I think you got the technique for black basing spot on... the variation in shade is exactly what I would be aiming for.

     

    Perhaps next time you might want to use a lighter grey? I've used ether XF-19 Sky Grey (Tamiya) or H51 Light Gull Grey Gunze); I prefer Gunze as it sprays more opaquely. That should give you even stronger shade variation... but not too strong that it would look overdone.

     

    As for tone you can do two things: spray some very random panel lines or areas with white rather than grey (not many, just a few). This will give the "bleached" look you sometimes see on some F-15Es. You can also do this with smoke as a post-shade to add even more tone, again not overdoing it. Some mild weathering with black or really dark pigment also works (gotta steal some techniques from the tank modellers...)

    • Like 1
  3. 10 hours ago, twp1 said:

    Are there are direct Tamiya equivalent colours to the following humbrol for a Harrier GR.7/9;

    -156 Dark Camouflage Grey

    -164 Dark Sea Grey 

    -165 Medium Sea Grey

    -167 Barley Grey

     

    Given that your location is UK based, why not just get Gunze colors? They're readily available, cheap, and have virtually the entire modern RAF line. And quite accurate as well, the exception perhaps being MSG which is a bit blue-ish. Tamiya XF-83 is MSG from WW2 which from what I've read is the same as the one used now (please correct me if I'm wrong).

  4. On 3/11/2018 at 7:53 PM, John said:

    I think Mike Starmer has observed that the current incarnation of Light Stone isn't actually the same as the WW2 version. I'd have to go and check but IIRC the current shade is darker than the older one, so using the BS381C colour in the Caunter scheme could well look a bit strange. 

    John 

     

    Well, Mike Starmer worked on the AK Real Colors range so if that were true, he surely would have pushed for 2 different Light Stone variants?

  5. The color you want is Vallejo Model Color Blue Grey Pale 70.905. It's spot on IMHO, and I have found no other in acrylic to come close to the Fulcrum cockpit.

     

    Warning: do not be confused with Pale Grey Blue 70.907... this one is somewhat lighter.

     

    file.jpg

    • Like 1
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  6. 19 hours ago, whiskey said:

    I still can't get over how large it is. I haven't read anything about it, maybe because I haven't really looked, but doesn't the shape of the engine's and the nozzles themselves render the stealth plane's effectiveness? I just remember that when the F-22 was developed and put into service, and the F-117 before, a lot of the talk was that part of the stealth technology laid in the shape of the engines to keep it's signature low as possible.

     

    From what I know, the Su-57 is only intended to be stealthy from the front; the exhausts are not optimized for stealth.

  7. 12 hours ago, MADMUSKY said:

    Defo Light Stone, Xtracrylics at Hannants is a good match.

     

    Darren

     

    I used to have it and tested it on a Matilda for the Counter scheme but found it too "tan". In fact, the differences between that and Xtracrylix's US desert tan were not much, the latter IMHO more accurate.

     

    I have the new AK Interactive real color and it looks the part, but haven't sprayed it yet...

  8. Hello tank experts,

     

    Can any of you tell me what is the correct shade for Challenger tanks that fought in the Gulf/Iraq wars? On one hand I have read that the standard desert color is still the venerable Light Stone from WW2. On the other hand, I hear about British Sand Yellow which seems to be a bit more orange-ish than the sort of mustard-ish Light Stone.

     

    It does not help that on pictures you can see Challengers leaning towards any of the other two colors!

     

    Thanks!

  9. 7 hours ago, Richwade said:

    Yes have looked on eBay and the only sellers are in the USA and demand very high prices I don’t mind paying a bit but 4x the price plus tax no thanks lol

    I did a quick search before my initial comment and there were plenty of UK sellers offering it at around £25-30. Hence my surprise that you said you couldn't find it "anywhere".

  10. The ESCI was not too bad... except for the one-piece wheels, which sadly was not uncommon in a number of ESCI post-war kits. Nothing great, mind you, but ruined by that one issue.

     

    Trumpeter's tank kits are not too shabby in general (some are downright excellent) and I would except any new tool to be of the highest quality barring some possible accuracy issues.

  11. On 2/20/2018 at 3:53 PM, Giorgio N said:

     

    And here lies the matter: the technology to make supercrisp panel lines and details has been around for decades but has a cost. Each company will decide to have a certain kit made using more expensive tools or chaper ones and the decision will be based on financial and market factors and business model. I remember when the heavy panel lines of early Hornby era Airfix kits were explained by modellers with things like "they do it because modellers add washes" or "heavier panel lines are better for beginners" and a whole lot of other theories, in the end however the reason is much simpler: it's money !

     

     

     

    And yet Airfix still demands a premium price for it...

    • Like 1
  12. Funny, I had the suspicion that newer versions of XF-81 RAF Dark Green were too olive compared to older tins. I assumed that it was age but it could be that they have been subtly changing the formulas.

     

    I'm not a huge fan of XF-62 for an OD. Too green AND too dark. Gunze H78 is much better. All other acrylics (Vallejo, MiG, etc.) are too brown for my liking.

  13. On 2/5/2018 at 9:50 PM, Col. said:

    Stunning work :goodjob: The paintwork is a thing of art and beauty.

     

    Save those words for a Botticelli ;)

     

    I hope I've inspired people to switch to black basing. It's MUCH easier than I thought and highly gratifying in the end. I feel I painted the equivalent of the Dreadnought: a model that suddenly turned all my other models in the shelf obsolete...

  14. On 2/4/2018 at 7:26 PM, Hamster Volant said:

    Great job on a great looking plane (much better looking than the ugly F-22!)

    Italeri kits stand quite well the passing of time...

     

    Not all of them... ;)

     

    It is one of their best kits from this time period I would say, and I'm actually glad they chose not to do recessed panel lines because given Italeri's mid-90s quality, they would have completely ruined this kit!

  15. On 2/6/2018 at 9:41 PM, CaracalModels said:

    Excellent work, thanks for sharing. Sorry about the short walkways - I can only imagine the emotional and physical toll of masking 3 centimeters of gray walkways, and will do my best to address this issue on future F-16 sheets ;-)

     

    Well, the problem is that none of the lines are remotely the correct length. Would've just been easier to just add a number of long, equally sized lines and have the modeller cut them to size. So it's actually not just the time spent painting the extra walkway, it's cutting up little pieces to add on to lines that are too short. The walkway that is perpendicular to the fin on the starboard side is actually composed of all the 2-3mm bits that were left over from the other lines.

     

    It's a great sheet aside from that issue but if you're paying top money for a 1/72 sheet, this has no excuse, it easily adds 30-45 minutes of (very tedious) work to the decalling and painting process.

    • Thanks 1
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