Phantome
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Everything posted by Phantome
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I think you got the technique for black basing spot on... the variation in shade is exactly what I would be aiming for. Perhaps next time you might want to use a lighter grey? I've used ether XF-19 Sky Grey (Tamiya) or H51 Light Gull Grey Gunze); I prefer Gunze as it sprays more opaquely. That should give you even stronger shade variation... but not too strong that it would look overdone. As for tone you can do two things: spray some very random panel lines or areas with white rather than grey (not many, just a few). This will give the "bleached" look you sometimes see on some F-15Es. You can also do this with smoke as a post-shade to add even more tone, again not overdoing it. Some mild weathering with black or really dark pigment also works (gotta steal some techniques from the tank modellers...)
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Given that your location is UK based, why not just get Gunze colors? They're readily available, cheap, and have virtually the entire modern RAF line. And quite accurate as well, the exception perhaps being MSG which is a bit blue-ish. Tamiya XF-83 is MSG from WW2 which from what I've read is the same as the one used now (please correct me if I'm wrong).
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Well, Mike Starmer worked on the AK Real Colors range so if that were true, he surely would have pushed for 2 different Light Stone variants?
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The color you want is Vallejo Model Color Blue Grey Pale 70.905. It's spot on IMHO, and I have found no other in acrylic to come close to the Fulcrum cockpit. Warning: do not be confused with Pale Grey Blue 70.907... this one is somewhat lighter.
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modern German Tornado and Eurofighter loadout!
Phantome replied to exdraken's topic in Aircraft Modern
Cool stuff, there's so few pictures of loaded up Luftwaffe aircraft these days and I've always wondered what kind of LGBs they use. -
From what I know, the Su-57 is only intended to be stealthy from the front; the exhausts are not optimized for stealth.
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Sneak preview (i.e. still unweathered) with the new AK real color. Taken under bad lighting and looks more cream-ish in real life but I think it is spot on.
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I used to have it and tested it on a Matilda for the Counter scheme but found it too "tan". In fact, the differences between that and Xtracrylix's US desert tan were not much, the latter IMHO more accurate. I have the new AK Interactive real color and it looks the part, but haven't sprayed it yet...
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Hello tank experts, Can any of you tell me what is the correct shade for Challenger tanks that fought in the Gulf/Iraq wars? On one hand I have read that the standard desert color is still the venerable Light Stone from WW2. On the other hand, I hear about British Sand Yellow which seems to be a bit more orange-ish than the sort of mustard-ish Light Stone. It does not help that on pictures you can see Challengers leaning towards any of the other two colors! Thanks!
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I did a quick search before my initial comment and there were plenty of UK sellers offering it at around £25-30. Hence my surprise that you said you couldn't find it "anywhere".
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There is this thing called eBay...
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RAF Eurofighter Typhoon, best options in 1/72
Phantome replied to Courageous's topic in Aircraft Modern
Guys, you can get the Hasegawa Typhoon for about £25 on eBay or Amazon or any number of Asian sellers. Can't believe it's 2018 and people still pay UK retail price for Hasegawa kits -
Hilarious! And definitely written in jest. " The T-80U use Lenintation device to levitate above ground and see end of capitalists invaders hordes " I mean, c'mon
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The ESCI was not too bad... except for the one-piece wheels, which sadly was not uncommon in a number of ESCI post-war kits. Nothing great, mind you, but ruined by that one issue. Trumpeter's tank kits are not too shabby in general (some are downright excellent) and I would except any new tool to be of the highest quality barring some possible accuracy issues.
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And yet Airfix still demands a premium price for it...
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Dear London: please invite the sun back.
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Funny, I had the suspicion that newer versions of XF-81 RAF Dark Green were too olive compared to older tins. I assumed that it was age but it could be that they have been subtly changing the formulas. I'm not a huge fan of XF-62 for an OD. Too green AND too dark. Gunze H78 is much better. All other acrylics (Vallejo, MiG, etc.) are too brown for my liking.
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I believe Hataka makes the only version of this paint in acrylic. AFAIK, this is the same green used on the upper surfaces of 80s-era Harrier GR.5s
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Go for it. There are way worse kits in terms of fit.
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Save those words for a Botticelli I hope I've inspired people to switch to black basing. It's MUCH easier than I thought and highly gratifying in the end. I feel I painted the equivalent of the Dreadnought: a model that suddenly turned all my other models in the shelf obsolete...
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Not all of them... It is one of their best kits from this time period I would say, and I'm actually glad they chose not to do recessed panel lines because given Italeri's mid-90s quality, they would have completely ruined this kit!
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Well, the problem is that none of the lines are remotely the correct length. Would've just been easier to just add a number of long, equally sized lines and have the modeller cut them to size. So it's actually not just the time spent painting the extra walkway, it's cutting up little pieces to add on to lines that are too short. The walkway that is perpendicular to the fin on the starboard side is actually composed of all the 2-3mm bits that were left over from the other lines. It's a great sheet aside from that issue but if you're paying top money for a 1/72 sheet, this has no excuse, it easily adds 30-45 minutes of (very tedious) work to the decalling and painting process.
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It's more of a historical error... Nobody?
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Fortunately the fit issues don't leave may glaring gaps. The wingtips are a PITA though. Except for the nose, the Trumpeter is much better engineered overall.
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Everyone needs to do a Have Glass once in their life
