Jump to content
This site uses cookies! Learn More

This site uses cookies!

You can find a list of those cookies here: mysite.com/cookies

By continuing to use this site, you agree to allow us to store cookies on your computer. :)


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

934 Excellent

About Phantome

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Isle of Dawgs
  • Interests
    Planes. Ale.

Recent Profile Visitors

912 profile views
  1. Here was a quick one that I built in between a bigger build just because I realized I had this kit in the stash and wanted to get rid of it. It is quite cheap and looks good in the box but has some issues which I'll explain. But first... The pros: - Surface detail is fabulous. Very fine, crisp panel lines and plenty of rivets of different types. - The interior is also well detailed. - The fuselage shape captures the Griffon Spit look very well - The large pieces have pretty good fit don't have crude edges Unfortunately... The cons: - Although it is an injection-molded kit, there is definitely a short-run feel to it. Even the pieces don't have numbers! - The wings are too similar to the pre-F.21 elliptical type as opposed to the Spiteful-style wings. - The fit of small pieces (i.e. pretty much everything besides the fuselage and wings) is pretty bad. This resulted in a lot of sanding, cutting, and other alterations to get them to fit right. - The propellers are way too thick - Absolutely dreadful decals. This is quite annoying given that Xtrakit is Xtradecal's kit arm. They are made by Aviprint and so the problem is not the quality but rather, the register. The stencils are too large and lettering too thick and fudgy. The aircraft options are also rather boring, including one RAuxAF aircraft in camo, and a racer in silver. I wanted to build a silver Spit so I decided to pull a Fleetwood Mac and Go My Own Way. I saw an OOP decal set online that had an aircraft from No 610 Sqn so I printed the decals myself. Came out pretty well I must say, and thankfully only the squadron codes and serials were needed. I have never seen a photo of this aircraft so who knows if it's even real. Painting was done with decanted Tamiya AS-12, Vallejo for the interior, and Tamiya for the reds and blacks. The few pics of silver F.22s I have seen with virtually no exhaust stains or other weathering so I have left it pristine. I built the Airfix kit ages ago and has more accurate wings but also far from shake and bake, and surface detail is nowhere near as good as this one. Sitting next to other Spitfires on my then-shelf, it also looked skinnier. However, it's decals are much better. Overall, if the wing shape or prop sizes doesn't disturb you, I would go for this one if you can find better decals. Otherwise, I'll end up getting the Special Hobby "Hi-Tech" kit which is apparently a re-tooled version of this one, comes with PE and masks, and a huge number of decal options. I suspect it will still have "issues" but is probably the best F.22 currently available. Thanks for looking!
  2. THE FUSELAGE FELL TO THE FLOOR AND THE STABILIZER BROKE!!!!!!!!!!!!! My god, why did Revell make this kit so delicate??? In any other kit a broken stabilizer would be fixable! Not here... why??? Just because they wanted to make it moveable. WHYYYY??!?!?!?!?! Two of the swiveling pylons also snapped off. Another part of the kit that is impossible to correct if broken (unlike all other pylons). I think the Tornado is a kit that should be designed with either the wings swept back or not but not movable. Kind of like the Hasegawa F-14. Would have avoided all of this. £25 worth of kits have now gone... I have one more IDS kit in the stash. This will continue. I will not be defeated.
  3. Airbrushes are made to last, especially the higher quality ones. They don't break easy and should easily last more than a decade even under intensive use: mine is almost 10 years old and is still working great. Pieces like the nozzle can break, and needles can bend but both are easily replaced. Gunk accumulates over time regardless of how good you clean it which is why I recommend a small ultrasonic cleaner in the long run, though I doubt you'll need it for a number of years.
  4. Yeah, doesn't look black to me either. I honestly don't have much to add as I'm not an expert on P-40s...
  5. Good stuff on the kits! Just one little-known accuracy issue that you still have time to correct: for your Pearl Harbor aircraft, the bare metal propellers were actually painted maroon on the rear facing sides. The color did not extend all the way down but only a few inches before reaching the spinner, ostensibly only to cover the part of the propeller that would be visible from the cockpit. I found this while building my own Pearl Harbor P-40 and, unfortunately, most kits' instructions just say all metal or black rear sides (which is incorrect). I corrected it quite easily even after initially painting the rear sides black. Here's a picture of "337", destroyed at Pearl Harbor. You can clearly see the demarcation line: And some color pictures: http://www.ascalecanadian.com/2015/09/maroon-19-and-usaac-and-usaaf.html
  6. It's a Trumpeter kit, the Academy kit is much more primitive. The Trumpeter kit is the best P-40B for surface detail but sadly has a very toy-like canopy.
  7. Ok, have had time to start with the old Tigermeet IDS kit. Fuselage has been rebuilt and I recycled the cockpit parts from the old build to save some time. Annoyingly, I found that one of the intakes had the edge chipped off. So I used plasticard by placing a layer underneath and then a smaller triangular piece to even it out. I also put a piece of plasticard on the other one so they could be the same width. The fuselage was rebuilt relatively quickly. On Revell's Tornados I tend to fix the wheel wells with plastic cards as well as I dread the possibility of them detaching them after it's built, which would be difficult if not impossible to fix. On that note, I'm amazed at just how crisp the molding of this kit is. The Tigermeet IDS kit was the first released back in 1998. Hardly any flash even in pieces that are notorious for it. Really wish Revell took better care of its prize kits.
  8. Just in case you don't want to spend on more expensive art supplies: - Stirring pots: I use the tops of deodorants or hair spray bottles, preferably transparent. All my paint stirring is done on four tops of L'Oreal hairspray that I pressed for modeling service many years ago. - Stirring sticks: wooden cocktail sticks are cheap and perfect for this and you can just throw them away. As for thinners: - Isopropyl alcohol 99.9%: this will be your default thinner for all non-water-based acrylics (Tamiya, Gunze Mr Hobby) and good for cleaning out the airbrush between colors - Generic acrylic thinner: best for water-based acrylics (Vallejo, Mig). - Odorless white spirit: for enamels and for wiping off enamel washes. - Lacquer thinner: for lacquers (Mr Color, Mr Paint) and occasionally for cleaning out the airbrush between uses, or cleaning out hard to reach places like the air hole which is a nightmare when it gets clogged. For cleaning: - Airbrush cleaning pot: absolutely essential to spray out excess otherwise you will make an absolute mess of your workspace and consume enough towels to finish off the Amazon. - Airbrush cleaning spray. Badger makes a very good one. You should use it at the end of every paint session so that as much as the leftover paint can be cleaned off. - Airbrush cleaning kits. Very cheap, just a ring of different sized wire scrubs. Use this on the nozzle and the main hole every number of sessions or when it clogs. - Ultrasonic cleaner. You don't need this now but perhaps worth investing in a cheap one later on in your airbrush's life. They are really good for deep cleans and will do a much better work than any manual cleaning. Also they are great for cleaning eye glasses! I also echo the suggestion of getting a larger airbrush needle (0.4 is good). You will know when to use both and a 0.2 is always good to have for small freehand jobs but 0.4 covers much much better. I would also add, once you find a needle that you like, buy an extra nozzle of that size. Trust me, it'll break one day, and even a tiny dent will have paint splattering and will make it unusable. I have a Harder & Steenbeck Infinity which is one of the more expensive airbrushes and excellent quality and still, I've probably had to replace the nozzle like 5 times in the last 10 years. Finally, I would say, there are 4 levels of airbrush cleaning: 1) A thinner rinse: just spray out remaining paint into the cleaning pot, add a few drops of thinner, stir a bit, and spray out and repeat 2-3 times until you see no more color come out. This is for when you are switching colors in a paint session 2) A sink rinse: at the end of a paint session, rinse in water and with cleaning spray. You should remove the nozzle to spray inside too. 3) A deeper sink rinse: same as above but remove the needle as well and use the wire scrubs to clean up the interior. You should do this every week or so or if it's clogged. 3) Deep cleaning: disassemble the airbrush and clean thoroughly using a combination of cleaning sprays, ear cleaning buds, etc. You can also use any cleaning liquid and leave it rinsing overnight, just make sure the liquid doesn't have any corrosive components like ammonia. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, use that instead. You should do this a couple of times a year.
  9. Disaster has struck When attempting to attach the nose to the fuselage, my hand slipped and I broke the vertical stabilizer. Note to self: connect the nose and fuselage while the fuselage cement has not fully cured. Fear not. The cockpit has been salvaged which will shave some time off. I have a couple of IDS Tigermeet kits in the stash for this to continue...
  10. The cockpit is amazingly detailed, one of the best I've seen in 1/72 scale. In fact, surface quality of the model is fabulous, though in some parts (lower nose, fuselage sides) it is very crude due to lack of slide molding. Looking at this kit one realizes just how Revell's quality has really gone downhill in recent years. When's the last time they made a kit this detailed in this scale? To be continued later this weekend...
  11. My first concern was the black plastic but I sprayed the cockpit with Vallejo FS 36231 and coverage was excellent which was a relief. The other interior parts were painted Gunze FS 36495 as an equivalent of the light gray (which I read somewhere did not correspond to any RAL or BS number). The fuselage can be built on its own as it is separate from the nose and it is relatively quick to do so. But man, the engineering on this kit is somewhat questionable. The vertical stabilizers are very fiddly, for the only purpose that you can move them (pointless in a static model IMHO). The wings are movable which is a plus in theory, but requires the pylons to swivel, which also results in a very delicate placement. Worse still is that if either the pylons or stabilizers break off, you are screwed. Still, we march ahead!
  12. Hello! Been a while since I participated in a group build so here goes. I was born in 1979 which unfortunately was a rather uneventful year for military aviation. Fortunately it just so happens that one of my favorite planes of all time, the Tornado, entered service for the first time with the Luftwaffe. Match made in heaven! I am a huge fan of the Luftwaffe's "Lizard Scheme" (ok ok, Norm 83) and this is my first time building it. I am less of a fan of Revell's Tornado kit. Yes, it's the best in 1/72 scale by far. But it is incredibly fiddly and molding quality is terrible. Thankfully I will be using the 2002 "Black Thunder" kit so hopefully the plastic will not have been so deteriorated as in newer kits. It was my first Revell Tornado kit so I am eager to finally get around to build it. Unlike their latest kits, Revell back then typically included combat markings aside from the special markings and this kit includes decals for a Holloman AFB aircraft. The decals are moldy but appear usable.
  13. So, my only misgiving about this kit (besides the possibility of it being a rivet-fest), is price. Modelsvit is not exactly known for its competitive prices and if this kit is going to cost £30 or more, it's going to put off a lot of modelers...
  14. Oh wow, about time they produced a Marseille bird! And with canopy masks! This is a lovely little kit, much better fit than the G model
  15. I don't see Tamiya doing any other variant if their recent history is to judge (F-16 *cough*)
  • Create New...