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Maximum warp

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About Maximum warp

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 01/13/1974

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Brussels, Belgium
  • Interests
    MotoGP, Formula1, RC planes, motorcycles

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313 profile views
  1. That's a great looking bike, well done! I can only dream of getting my significant other interrested in this hobby...
  2. Wow, really nice work mate! There is nothing wrong with the quality of your work; on the contrary the bikes and the tools are impressive!
  3. LOL !! Hope you had some spares on the PE sheet...
  4. Hey Alan, just some tips here. No matter what quantity of red paint you spray, this difference will always show through. You're much better off either sanding the grey coat off down to bare plastic again, alternatively spray the whole car in pink primer. Tamiya does a pink primer especially to use under red paint as it makes the red more vibrant. In any case the undercoat needs to be uniform in order not to have color variations show through in the final coat especially with light coloured topcoats. Enjoy the build, it's a nice car!
  5. Great result there, one to be proud of! Take your time with the PE, and make sure you try to get rid of the carpet monster before you start You'll know what I talk about the first time a PE part says pingggg and flies away from your tweezers, never to be found again. It WILL happen...as it happens to all of us.
  6. What a gorgeous car!!! Can't really understand why you don't seem too excited about the end result, it looks perfect and I know that ain't easy to pull off especially with all the resin parts from the HD kit that have been added. If you have scratches on a clear part, you can try to polish those out in the same way as you would polish the paintjob on a car body.
  7. Isopropyl alcohol (sometimes called rubbing alcohol) should work fine. I recently used it to strip zero paints laquer. Just dunk the parts in a bath of IPA for 24 hours. Go for the 100% pure stuff, as I don't think it works if diluted or mixed with other alcohols.
  8. Thanks Codger, that's too much praise for my meager skills. There is so much more that could be done with this kit but this seems like a kit that could take for ever to complete if you really want to fix it and make it ultra realistic. But I made up my mind early that I won't seek the same precision as some of the seasoned Pocher builders out here. Thanks! Actually, on the real engine there is indeed a hole between the top of the water pump and the engine block. That's why I filled the back with plastic card on mine.
  9. You're doing a great job on this difficult kit!
  10. One of the biggest omissions which will be obvious when displaying this engine on a stans is the lack of injection pipes (from the injection pump to each injector on the cilinders). I first tried it with annealed piano wire.I used original parts drawings and reference pictures to figure out the routing of the pipes I was unhappy with the result, the piano wire is still too stiff even after annealing. I binned these and then moved on to Albion Alloys aluminium tube. Althoug the pipe looked better, I was still not satisfied with the result as well as with the material. The pipe tended to break when correcting a bend too much. So then I moved to a third material, which is soft metal wire used by florists. This proved to yield the best results! By now, I spent about 6 hours just on bending these pipes, on both engines.... Then it was time to start priming some parts. As the amount and size of the parts is huge, I decided not to use expensive modelling primers. I chose Motip plastic primer in spray cans. As you can see these parts are filling up my entire spray booth, which isn’t small by any means. The engine blocks and gearboxes aren’t even in here. That’s it for now, This is where I left it off. I would like to restart the build soon though, as I started this at Christmas last year (2015 I mean) Feel free to comment or ask questions! Cheers, Erik
  11. Some more “half” parts: alternator, compressor and exhaust collector This blob of plastic is supposed to represent a starter motor… The water pump is another disaster. Sinkmarks: Bad fit on the engine; it only fits if I squeeze it down. The backside is missing, well, a backside. As it’s visible on op of the engine, I filled this with styrene plate and some filler. Sinkmarks being filled: The airfilter also needs some work, as the inlet is way too “thick”. So out came the sandpaper and my trusty Swann-Morton scalpel to thin down as much as I would dare.
  12. Here are some more pictures of other parts, some of which are a big disappointment. Some parts like the oil filters are only moulded with a front half, some other parts like the turbo are both badly moulded as well as being ridiculously inaccurate. As you can see I’ve already started filling the voids with a first layer of putty. More on that soon. This kit is extremely disappointing in terms of accuracy as well as in terms of quality. It looks like Pocher first did the F16 truck, and then the F12. They didn’t bother changing the engine at all... And when they made a separate kit of the engine, they also didn’t think about the lack of detail. I decided to use some materials to detail and upgrade the kit: Albion Allows tubes, sheet styrene and a set of 1/8 PE hose clamps. As mentioned before, the turbocharger is a bit of a joke. First of all it’s way too long, and the wastegate valve looks rather like a plastic coffee cup. Here is the kit part with a reference pic from the web. I cut off the coffeecup. I started scratchbuilding my own wastegate valve using an original part drawing for reference. Starting to take shape! In the meantime the turbo housings got some more layers of filler. To reduce the overall length of the turbo, I cut down the parts in between the turbine and the compressor housing. And here is one done; with the kit part next to it. Big difference!
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