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Tony Oliver

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Tony Oliver last won the day on August 9

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About Tony Oliver

  • Rank
    I need to get out more...
  • Birthday 21/01/1983

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  • Location
    North Yorkshire / Windsor
  • Interests
    Trying to glue & paint bits of plastic.

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  1. Tony Oliver

    Finemolds Last Tomcat Demo Bird 1/72 F-14D

    Cheers pal, I have used it on a few builds now and think it is quite effective in 1/72 as it keeps things quite crisp and defined. I don’t think it would look as good in larger scales though. Too stark perhaps? I reckon for 1/48 you could actually spray the touch ups with an airbrush and get away with a soft edge on them.
  2. Tony Oliver


    Ah the good old days of tobacco sponsorship...
  3. Tony Oliver

    Finemolds Last Tomcat Demo Bird 1/72 F-14D

    Decals went on with no major dramas, apart from being a bit thick as hasegawa ones normally are. Not much to show there. Anyways onto the fun stuff - some weathering. Did the maskol post shade again, but avoided the tails and canopy as they were freshly painted for this scheme. Also tried something else, once the post shading was done I micromeshed it with some 4000 grit to make the ‘dirty’ bits more patchy and streaky. Then went over with a light grey to tone it down where the post shade was a bit strong, and also to fade and blend some of the black decals. Pics- Took about 2hrs with a toothpick carefully putting this all over the various parts Used this dirty brownish grey to post shade: Here is the raw effect: Then scrubbed back a touch with 4k cloth as said. This was possible as it had a good gloss coat to seal and protect the base paint. Has since had a sealing coat and some of the metals done like corroguard on wing leading edges for example. Here is the pipes done in gloss black SNR ready for alclads: Will get a picture of the pair up soon, this tps plane is now proper flat coated and I have added a touch of sheen back to the reaper jet. By for now.
  4. Tony Oliver

    Finemolds Last Tomcat Demo Bird 1/72 F-14D

    Mini update: Some other things I have just spotted on the commemorative scheme after applying the decals. One of the pictures I linked to at the start of the thread. https://images.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pacificaviationmuseum.org%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2016%2F10%2F4.png&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.pacificaviationmuseum.org%2Fpearl-harbor-blog%2Fp40%2F&docid=k5uHnHhOYL8N9M&tbnid=t6aP25hz55hGlM%3A&vet=1&w=914&h=608&hl=en-gb&source=sh%2Fx%2Fim 1 - the starboard rescue data is not like 90% of tomcats. The ‘normal’ way as hasegawa supplied is with the rectangular data box ‘forward’ of the rescue panel, under the formation light strip. 102 has it below and going towards the rear. Oh well. 2 - I noticed that there is a special marking which can only be a ‘date of birth’ on this jet. Look in the pic linked above at the nose gear door under the elbow of the ‘1T’ dude saluting. ‘DOB Apr 1991’ - means she was only 15 when they all were scrapped/given to museums after this sunset parade in 2006. Not sure if this marking is unique to 102 only or all the sunset participants had them. Never seen this before on other final vf31 decal schemes before. Anyways - wasn’t going to be able to paint that so got creative with some spare decal as best as I could get it. Font doesn’t match though used some of this : to make this : ‘B’ is a 1 and 3 joined, need to tidy it up with some black and a fine brush. Also those ‘beware of brast’ came in handy- two were used. An R on its own and one was cut to make a P Bye for now!
  5. Tony Oliver

    Looking for 1/72 F-4E or F-4G kit recommendation

    Post me those and I will cast them, send you a few pairs for your troubles and then sell them to others at cost as a conversion kit?
  6. Tony Oliver


    It all depends on how much seam checking and actual priming you need to do. If the kit has already had that done say with a grey primer then you can do an overall gloss black and go from there. If not you can kill two birds with one stone by using their black filler primer to sort seams then give it a polish with micromesh to smooth it out. You primer has now become a shiny black and then put your metallic on from there.
  7. Any closer pics of the details? They’re all quite far away and except for the one of the exhausts and underside are pretty much from the left and right, base or no base. Just using the left for example - pics 1,7,8 & 11 (no base) as well as 14,15,16 & 17 (with base) are near enough the same?
  8. Tony Oliver

    Too many 1/72 Hobbyboss F-14 Tomcats

    Felix is done and has his RFI: Vf-2 bird soon. Cheers, Tony
  9. Hi there, recently finished this guy to go with the 10 hobbyboss 1/72 tomcats I have built over the past two years. Him and those in the WIP at the bottom. First full resin kit of anything by myself, painted all in stynylrez primers - black, white & silver. (gunmetal mixed from black and sliver) The arms were drilled and pinned as is just a flat join and that bomb is one heavy lump. Took alot of work blending them into the shoulders. Finished with hataka orange line matt and satin lacquers. Ditched the base they gave and mounted him to a nice oak plinth. Not much more to be said really so here he is! And with a couple things to give a sense of scale: And the pages he spawned from - https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235005868-too-many-172-hobbyboss-f-14-tomcats/ Hope you like him and as always, thanks for looking! Tony.
  10. Tony Oliver

    Finemolds Last Tomcat Demo Bird 1/72 F-14D

    Here is a gratuitous shot of the pair. No progress on the reaper since its flat coat as this week has been all about the felix bird. It has now had its gloss coat and is ready for markings. Thanks for looking.
  11. Yes the mr hobby stuff is the aqueous one - aqua = water and all that. Mr Colour is the ‘strong’ one and will not mix in water. The mr hobby is the similar one of the two gunze paints to tamiya acrylics, as in an acrylic that thins both with water and thinners. Also can use lacquer type thinners with them (both mr H & tam) to achieve finer detail work but for lefties defeats the object of using a water soluble paint in the first place.
  12. Tony Oliver

    1/72 Modelcollect B-2A Spirit

    Really? I assumed that they were decals from looking at some of the other completed builds I have seen of this... learn something every day
  13. Tony Oliver

    Finemolds Last Tomcat Demo Bird 1/72 F-14D

    Update - TPS bird has been painted. So there are a few things that could be better on this build (worst affected one by glue gate at the start) so didn’t want to waste any lovely VF decals on it. Decided to go with the plan from the start and do the commemorative Grumman ‘navy’s last fighter’ scheme. The hasegawa decals for this aren’t perfect/ are incomplete and will require a bit of artistic licence which I won’t bore you with now. Anyways so the aim is to get a grubby tps finish with freshly painted tails and canopy (crew names, felix and the AJ were removed) The hasegawa decals seem bit lighter than normally expected so perhaps wouldn’t look correct over straight TPS paint. From pictures 102 does seem quite faded. So I referred back to the swatches I made when trying to get paint that would work with the light dxm vf101 decals. Now the darkest shade on here (which the brush is pointing at) is dense/full saturation MRP 36375 light ghost grey. The rest around it are lighter mixes, with a flash of light arctic grey on there too. (There are still some of the those dxm decals on there) So this bird was painted in lighter than normal shades to get the contrast correct with the decals. Also an interesting side effect with a black base and lighter shades it allows you to build up the strength/concentration of the colours more. As in the more you add the lighter they become so you can add fading too all with one paint. So in a nutshell this plane was painted as so: Lowers in lieu of 36375 - Light arctic grey. Sides of nose & tails in lieu of 36320 - A 50:50 mix of 36375 and white. Uppers in lieu of 35237 - straight 36375. Here it is: Also tried this out - random highlights. Then when you apply thin layers to build up the colour these bits look like fresh touch ups. Something else different I have done this time - washes straight onto the paint. The MRP is tough and smooth enough to allow this with its hard satin sheen. Would never try this with say rough matt tamiya which would clog and soak up the wash. I had some loss of definition of some petite finemolds panel lines with the reaper bird, mainly because the washes went over an extra two layers of paint (pre and post decal gloss), so doing the wash now should prevent this. It should also darken the finish a bit more towards where I want it to be. Quite pleased how it turned out. Normally when I do washes they are over the post decal sealing gloss, so when rubbed off they only define panel lines and don’t add weathering too. This way on the satin paint there is a nice staining and grimy effect left over. Always learning. Left side bits still has it on and right side bits cleaned up. Here are the uppers - showing the straight clean paint, the ‘wash on’ and the ‘wash off’ in the centre where it has been rubbed off but also rubbed in a bit and grimed up. The tails however were rubbed back with turps damp tissue so there was only panel lines left defined and no grime on them (fresh paint for the commemoration scheme) Here it is with the decals - the tone and ‘darkness’ of the scheme looks good to work with these now, as in the shade of then uppers matches the stencils. Still quite ‘light’ overall though compared to other tps paint jobs I have done. Next is a gloss to seal in the washes and make it ready for decals. Once they are on I may do some of the maskol post shading to add some more grime and ‘touch ups’ here and there. Thanks for looking. Tony.
  14. Actually quite clever. Typical Deutsche efficiency. Makes them easier to stack and store. And to identify in a drawer from the top. However the best bit from a modellers perspective is the low centre of gravity so you’re not likely knock them over. Even more so when you clip the upturned lid onto the container and use it as a built in mixing/thinning palette.