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Too much work and/or hassle and no guarantees it would actually work. Save a bit longer and get the new one. If you can find one that is... all sold out everywhere it seems.

Indeed! I used have a k2 600 in same scheme, a mini-me of yours. Thou aint it - as has braced swing arm?

👌🏽

Lovely build mate 👌🏽

PM sent 👌🏽

Gorgeous build 😎

Very nice! One minor point - perhaps tone down and dirty up the ecm bumps and formation strips to harmonise the finish?

More proof that people mainly just look at the pictures of an RFI and don’t read the write up properly. If I had a pound for every time I have seen something similar in other RFI’s be it about paint/decals/AM etc...

⬆️ I hope the wings are not glued in those pics. Upside down mate. Also don’t forget to remove gps dome on the spine.

Where would one put them all?!? Will be an impressive sight mind...

The old chat up lines are still the best... 😚 😝 🤣

Detail painting done. All the bolts have been highlighted. They look a bit spanish? Now Glossed ready for decals Cheers.

I have that superscale sheet. Its printed too light though. Very early experimental TPS scheme (36495 lowers) for that one and it’s similar in build features to the academy decal option. PM me for more info.

There aren’t any accurate decals for a TPS vf142 scheme that I am aware of. However you’re halfway there with that sheet mate. AG with the tail art and low viz data. All you need to do is match a modex and BuNo together (and features like vents/ecm bumps etc). I have something similar planned myself for one day. https://www.google.co.uk/amp/s/nara.getarchive.net/amp/media/a-fighter-squadron-142-vf-142-f-14a-tomcat-aircraft-is-positioned-on-a-catapult-bd08f6 That above is an A in normal TPS. The later seemingly all over grey ones with the hood from 89-95 were A plus / B versions before the squadron was disbanded.

It doesn’t really matter mate, depends on what look you’re after. The surface finish will affect the final look. Satin is probably the best compromise using the matt effect thinner. Think of it this way - On a gloss surface the oils will sit ‘ontop’ and it will be a streaky finish from brushing them about. Problem is you will then need a matt coat and applying an overall varnish for this matt subject, you will lose alot of the subtle oil effects. On a matt surface the oils will sit ‘in’ and be absorbed by the rougher texture of the surface and the effect will be stronger and more defined. Satin is half and half. Because spraying a final varnish over oil weathering can reduce it’s effects, I rarely do that anymore. I do oil weathering as the last stage, once the model is finished in its required final varnish be it satin or matt etc. That way you can see your work easily and not worry about losing it if you still needed to varnish. Also you can get alot more surface variation that way and make things more interesting. Eg finish with overall satin varnish but then use the matt effect thinners with the oils in some areas to provide a contrast. Paint on real things is matt/bleached rough and faded in some areas, and then worn smoother and satin from rubbed in grime or wear and tear in others etc. Hope that makes sense.

Paint on. Ghost greys for the B. Gull and white for A. All tamiya lacquers apart from radome is Mr Color as don’t have that. Used the new ware advanced mask set on the A to help with flaps on wings, anti glare and some metal areas etc. I didn’t enjoy these tamiya lacquers. Perhaps too hot in the shed. Even with Mr Colour Leveling thinners they dried too quick and too much roughness/overspray areas. Had to use some 2.5k to smooth them out before glossing. Also found them not opaque enough and not alot of contrast between the shades. Perhaps need to change my painting style or try regular primer for these on future builds rather than black basing. So the A is obviously still the VF-14 option as has the all white tails. The B however is not going to be a diamond back anymore. I have given into the ‘call of the bones’ or whatever. However will be a lesser seen and really low viz grubby TPS line jet if I can piece the decals together from the bits in the stash. I am a sucker for punishment.

Yeah mate sometimes they did. You can see this in photos because when a tool is removed there is a ‘shadow’ in the camouflage. Tried to replicate this on a Budapest Tiger 2 as seen in the propaganda pics when they rolled in to the city centre. Tamiya Tiger 2 with cavalier zim sheets. Built about 10 years ago, long sold on too. Need to RFI it as still have loads of pics of it...

@nasosrr If you want to fade it a bit use some oils mate. More control than using an airbrush and kinda removable. Dots of white, sand/buff, light grey applied with a toothpick. Like the size of a fullstop you make with a pen when writing. Then work them in and blend with a dampened brush of odourless type thinner. Mixing it up and using the 502 Abteilung matt effect thinners too will give it a nice chalky finish in areas so you can get lots of variety and make it interesting to look at. Practice first on some scrap like you have been of course. It can look very different between wet and dry when working with oils, the effect develops when dry and then you can see it more. When a panel is wet/damp from the thinners the sheen hides your work so it’s too easy to add more then when it dries it can be far too much. Less is definitely more. Also white can be really strong and will ‘bleach’ the colours it’s applied over but I guess thats good for a desert look! Tony

I don’t rate SAC metal landing gear. At all. The basically copy the parts with warts, ejection pins marks and all in a soft metal. That bends easily. So much for extra strength. I think that bloke/company is making a mint off of people’s paranoia and the weight of their kits. So what is the point of them? Also if it’s a blatant carbon copy of the kits parts with no modifications but in metal, then where does the copyright issue stand? Sorry for the digress...

Nice, but the skunk stripe and fins shouldn’t be black, they were insignia blue, like the 200’s / vf32’s / star circles / kill markings etc. There was a black anti glare in front of windscreen then blue on the radome again. Tony

Very smart mate! Lovely wurger. Edit - interesting how dark the yellow decals are in your b&w pic...

I have some spare decals I could send you mate? Got some spare of this acad kit that I’m building as a ‘B’ with bombs so don’t need them. Also you can add the glove vane panel line decals then too.

Not bad mate. Did you not fancy putting the kit decals on the loadout? Tony

Indeed! And a tractor or weapons cart etc. Need to track some down...

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