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Stephan

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Everything posted by Stephan

  1. The ready assembled cockpit with cp levers The rotorhead needed a little more attention The rotormast was not designed to be detachable, so I changed that a little. colourcodes were made with 0.4mm masking tape painted on a sheet of glass Happy and relaxing Easter days to everyone Stephan
  2. That depends on the constructive type of the compressor. Usually Airbrush compressors are oil free to avoid contamination of the paint. My own compressor is from Revell 39674 and its an oil free one like the AS18. The mentioned Revell Omega needs oil. In this video you can see an oil lubricated airbrush compressor, it might be of the same type as the Revell omega. at 1:11 you can see a kind of an oil check window. at 1:30 the refill process itself. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gcp3uVvz5_4 cheers Stephan
  3. As I understand it the oil is for lubricating of the crankshaft and not for the piston. You may use usual compressor oil from the DIY market but revell had its own brand as well.
  4. Long range and towel-bar LOC antenna
  5. Here are two more if you haven't found them already. same bird top-down https://www.airplane-pictures.net/photo/496679/f-btgv-airbus-skylink-boeing-377-super-guppy/ and side view of exhaust http://forums.airshows.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=64679
  6. I found this thing here ... maybe you can use the bowl itself it is about 0.5 - 1mm thick. Cheers, Stephan
  7. Very beautiful builds and the colorful schemes do suit them great. As I saw the C123 I had an instant flashback to "Flying Through Midnight". Cheers, Stephan
  8. Thanks for your kind comments. If it's here on BM feel free to post a link to it. I would be glad to see it. I have heard that modellers use that technique to make canvas so I only added the comb which is in fact the comb of my daughter, so please don't tell or I might get hurt. The next issue is the rotor-star of the rotor-head. It doesn’t look very much like the original. the Bars sanded to a star shape - elements cut off from the backside clear surface - the rotor-star close to its new shape cheers, Stephan
  9. Looks like the Germans had no money left for anti-fouling and now the ship is populated with barnacles. Good luck with the painting I'm sure it will be great, Stephan
  10. There are not a lot of pictures of the cabins back area but most of them are showing an orange curtain. Because it was such an attractive colourful spot I wanted that too. I used 2 layers of an usual 4 layer tissue attached to a wire and than saturated with diluted PVA. After drying painted with acrylics and sealed with gloss coat. cheers, Stephan
  11. The levers of the overhead console are designed to be folded to give em more depth but if you do so they don't fit any more in the designated slots. The PE belts were a lot to stiff for my taste so I clipped of the buckles and loops and glued them to home made Tesa Krepp (paper based sellotape) belts. I was pretty much surprised that this is the first helicopter kit I build that doesn’t provide a pitch lever...
  12. You are doing some impressive work here. It's a pleasure to watch how you overcome the pitfalls of that kits. Quite motivating to give a resin kit a try. May you tell us the brand or type of your blue adhesive? All the best for the rest of your build, Stephan
  13. The hoist is done. I have made a 3d model of the hoist judging from pictures and a side view. It is not that accurate but for 1/72 its OK. You may download the two parts here: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2781861 Material is PLA, Cura settings are "100% infill" "heated bed with adhesion print" "extra fine quality" nozzle was 0.4mm.
  14. In a kind of a Mojo-rush after finishing my ZIL fuel truck, I decided to make a weekend build of my Z-9A from DreamModel before continuing on my Z-10. Well, we had a nice start with the PE parts which were a pleasure to work with. The back seats are not a part of the etch set Z-9A, they are from a Z-9WA. I had one set in spare so I can use some parts of it. Than cleaning the main body of the parts that would be used for the "WZ" variants and making a dry-fit was joyful as well. Than I did a bit of research and it doomed me that this will not be that easy going as I initially thought. The kit has some inaccuracies that I’m willing to turn a blind eye to, but it has two major downsides. 1. There are none of the 5 to 7 Antennas, what is not a big deal except for the huge long range antenna on the starboard side. 2. What bothers me is the missing hoist on the starboard side. I have found not one single picture of a French Marine Helicopter without a hoist. cheers, Stephan
  15. Today I've made myself a "Punch and Die" tool from scrap material. Although I only made it as a test bed, I have to say It works much better than my way described in the post above. It is made with an 8mm aluminium plate and a piece of 4mm plexiglass the centring bolts are Ikea floor bearer for billy (old style). The only problem I discovered is, that it is not easy to drill trough the whole 8mm Plate with drills<1mm so I would use a 4 to 5mm plate next time. Hope it might be helpful for someone.
  16. As I don't have a "punch and die" set I finally found a way to create the mirroring side of the rear view mirror. I do have several cable-end sleeves at home and so I gave it a try. Here it is and on the Zil
  17. After a long time in my stash I finally managed to finalize my Zil. It is the 1/72 kit from ICM. Build can be found here: Cheers, Stephan
  18. The modifications are done, I've added a couple of wipers and put it together. It is still not glued and the ladder and one wiper are a little bit out of place, but overall I’m done. If I look at the pictures below I think this is the right position of the front wheel. Here are some pictures where I referred to. https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/a/a0/Abandoned_ZiL-157.jpg http://www.f-a-p.nl/images/vehicles/gssd/zil157_tanker.jpg Thanks for watching and the nice comments, have a nice weekend Stephan
  19. I used to build one of these as I was a kid and matchbox kits were still available in the local grocery store. Your build is well beyond what I thought is possible to create out of this kit. I love it.
  20. The misalignment of the front axle bothered me a little to much. I will refit the suspensions in reverse against the construction manual to move the axle more in the direction of the bumper bar. The suspension is now shown in the new "wrong" direction. The drive-shaft must be extended. everything back in place cheers, Stephan
  21. It took its time to cure but I’m pretty satisfied with the outcome. cheers, Stephan
  22. Thank you k5054nz, I didn't knew what the legend says, but I asked google about it and it told me the meaning of "ОГНЕОПАСНО" in this case would be "risk of fire" / "flammable" what is pretty close to your suggestion. Thanks for the Hint John, I feel a little foolish about that "Kristal Klear" stuff. As I opened the bottle I had an immediate déjà vu. It looks like Ponal feels like Ponal and even smells like Ponal. Ponal is a German brand of white wood glue, and I have plenty of this at home. After realizing this similarity I asked google about it and found that other modellers discovered the same, but found it dries a bit clearer. Well, we will see... needless to say both bottles do cost nearly the same. After painting of the reflector it became visible that the hole is slightly out of centre, I blame that on the bad contrast of black plastic and carry on. As a try to push it a bit further I have added a thin plastic rod in the centre and painted a white spot on it to imitate the bulb. Than I filled it up with several layers of Micro Kristal Klear. cheers Stephan
  23. Thanks Alpha, here is a picture of the wire made ladder. I had some difficulties with my CA that turned out to expand itself after applying. Is that usual behaviour or is it just my cheap CA? The oil stain was way to heavy so I reduced it to a more realistic one. I've drilled open the headlights but I am stuck a bit. My first attempt was to fill it with gloss varnish. That didn't work because it shrinks to much. I've already ordered a bottle of "Micro Kristal Klear", so that will be my next approach.
  24. Thank you John. There is only the ladder and the headlights left, but I wonder if I have to rework the front axle. If I look at Pictures of that ZIL it seems that the front tire is aligned to where the mudguard starts.
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