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Yimkin

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  1. Having re-examined your link, I have to say that looks incredible value, the compressor looks identical! However I've spoken to my mate, and as he is off modelling at the moment I have free loan :-)
  2. Those look like good deals, thanks, but given I can get the eclipse and sprint jet for around £200 from my workmate I'll probably go for that, assuming I can find enough down the back of the sofa...
  3. A workmate who is on a break from modelling lent me his Iwata Eclipse and Sprint Jet compressor. After a few experiments (which taught me the importance of thinning paint appropriately), I'm happy to say I'm getting brilliant results after maybe 30 minutes total practice! I'm a convert, given that this was lent to me, but I'm put off by the £300 price for a new replacement. I can maybe get this setup for £200 (I'd previously been looking at a Neo setup for circa £180, but even that price scared me). Persuade me! Use man maths and show your working if needed...
  4. I didn't in this case, as I couldn't figure out a way to mask the cockpit without breaking things! Yes, you're right, the Humbrol acrylics. You've got it right when you say 'gritty', that's exactly what it feels like. I shall await my micromesh with interest! Thanks for the tips regarding the masking ridge!
  5. Hi, I'm currently building an Airfix Do-17z, and due to budgetary constraints I'm hand painting rather than airbrushing. I've done a couple of models previously using rattle cans, but in this case, largely due to paint colours, I'm hand painting. I'm using Tamiya XF-23 light blue for the underside, and unlike an earlier thread have got the hang of Tamiya acrylics (I think), having hit upon getting it on quick and not revisiting a rapidly drying area with the brush. It's gone on beautifully smooth, with only a few brush marks evident after 3 coats, which I can live with. The upper side of the fuselage, however, is a different story entirely. Here I am using Humbrol 241 and 242 as per instructions. Apart from the fact that even after thorough mixing there is less differentiation between the colours than I would have expected, it has produced a very rough and fragile finish. ThIs is despite very thin coats. I've tried putting future on, but it makes little difference, I had hoped it would 'self level' and produce a smoother finish? Any tips? As for masking content, how do you avoid a ridge line between two different colours where they have butted up against the masking tape? I've ordered some Micro-mesh, but even with the finest grade the state of the paint is such that I think it would just strip it. All suggestions most welcome!
  6. Yimkin

    Canopy help?

    Hi, I dipped a canopy in future before masking and hand painting, which came out really well (no airbrush), but the canopy is now covered in fingerprint marks. I'm reluctant to try and remove them, even with a soft cloth, in case it removes the paint through abrasion. Any tips?
  7. Is it possible to order direct from their website? All I can see is reorder codes with no prices. I'm guessing it's for retailers only,Mao if anyone can point me to a UK site which stocks all their stuff I'd be very grateful! Chris
  8. Just got some Humbrol enamel wash. I've never used a wash before (I've never washed, ha!), and the instructions recommend clean up using enamel thinners - would I be ok using white spirit, which obviously is a lot cheaper (and I already have about a gallon of the stuff). Many thanks!
  9. Sorry there aren't any pics as yet, I promise I will upload soon as.. 2nd model since my return to modelling (1st was a 1:72 twin otter where I got everything wrong, but learnt a lot). I don't (yet) have an airbrush, and I'm wondering about painting this thing. I'm going for the red, white, black and aircraft grey scheme, which I realise is complicated. I'm not happy with brush painting due to final quality, and rattle cans for this would cost a good chunk towards an airbrush. My thoughts were I prime it in halfords acrylic, then a rattle can spray all over in white, mask the bits that are meant to stay white, and then rattle can the red. Good thin Tamiya grey means I'm ok brush painting the underneath, and I guess I can mask off and brush paint the black. Does this sound like a logical sequence? Thanks Chris
  10. Many thanks Graham!
  11. Just used it to soak an instrument panel decal onto a raised panel. First time I've used it, seemed OK, needed a bit of prodding, and would be wary of using it on fragile decals if any manipulation was needed. Cost me 6 quid for a bottle, eek!
  12. So, even using a touch n flow, I still sometimes get a splodge of glue where I don't want it. What's the best thing to do? Let it dry then scrape off with a scalpel? Thanks Chris
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