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Engineering Modeller

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  1. Folks, many thanks for the compliments. I just wanted to say that how valuable these forums are, when I started this I had no intention of trying to do a full scratch build but when you look around and see the work that is accomplished by many of the modelers it is really inspiring. I have learnt a tremendous amount looking at other builds so it is thanks to all who contribute to the forum. Graham
  2. Thanks guys I appreciate all the comments! The lathe is a Colchester Harrison that I bought a good few years ago. The four jaw chuck is the Pratt Burnerd and is really nice, the 3 jaw is a TOS and is also pretty good. The question regarding what is behind, if you are referring to the black stuff its actually a piece of plastic damp proof course. It catches most of the swarf and is then easy to clean with a vacuum cleaner. I first tried this when I was machining some cast iron locomotive wheels and it worked great, cast iron swarf is a real bugger and when mixed with oil forms an ab
  3. I found some brass that is a suitable size to make the beads! One bit had a hole in it but by cutting a groove in the face I managed to make the inside dia of the bead. Parting off a bead This is the form tool I used for shaping the profile of the bead. Next job was to make the bead clamps. For this I used some 6mmx0.58mm brass strip and I made a former from guage plate. The gauge plate was hardend by heating to cherry red and plunging into water. The forme
  4. Hi Sam The model is based on the Pocher kit at 1/8 scale. I had originally just thought I would try and make just the chassis out of brass but the more I have done the more I think I shall do a scratch build of the whole thing. I am using the Pocher brass parts where possible and the chains are Pocher. They are a bit fiddly to make but not too bad. Graham
  5. Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. This is probably going to be my last post for a short while as I have a couple of other projects that I need to progress. In the mean time I have uploaded all the photos to a website that I run. It includes a lot of images that I have collected from the Net of real cars which maybe useful to others building the Fiat. You can see them here Graham
  6. A few more shots of the wheels. Starting to shape the spokes. Rear and Front Wheel. The nuts on the rear came with the Pocher kit, the others are 12BA I now just have to find some suitable material/tube from which to make the beads.
  7. Hi H You are right I did quench in water, but I wanted to see how hard they were before I annealed the springs. The answer was incredibly hard/brittle and in fact the one I tried snapped as I tried to bend it. Once annealed they were ok ie they do now spring but still too stiff for a model car. From what I have read you can quench in oil or water, water giving a harder result. The trick then is the proper annealing to bring it to the desired result. Next time I shall try oil. Thanks Graham
  8. H Yes thats my thoughts only problem is the outside dia is 82mm and inside 73.2mm. So far I have not found any tube that fits the bill but I could do it from a solid bar and make a lot of swarf! Graham
  9. Thanks Harvey, I think you are right, I need to get hold of some thick wall tubing and then turn it on the lathe. Graham
  10. Folks, I have found some time so I am back on the Fiat tackling the wheels. But before that let me say thanks for the kind comments and Harvey was definately correct the springs are much too stiff but they look the part. It would be nice to have them looking correct and exhibit some suspension but I have no idea how to achieve that. For the wheels I decided yo use some American Oak that was left over from a cabinet I made. I had originally intended to get the spokes laser cut but then thought I would give it a try on a powered Fret saw, it turned out to be fairly straightforward a
  11. Thanks for the kind comment guys. I must admit I have not done much on the Fiat recently as I have been busy with a few other projects but I will continue in a few months time.
  12. Brake and Gear Change Lever The image is of the real car that I found on the Web. The Gate Shaping the handle Winding the spring for the mechanism, I used a violin string. This was probably the most difficult part of the build so far, the components were pretty small and the soldering tricky. I wont boor you with how many times I had to re-do the soldering but it was a few!
  13. Well I finally obtained some steel for the springs from Reeves 2000 here in the UK. The steel was in a soft state when delivered and you have to heat treat it in order to produce the spring state. It was surprisingly easy to cut and drill , just like mild steel. Bent and ready for heat treatment. Using gas propane torch I heated to cherry read and plunged into water. This is the result before descaling and a test of how how hard the springs are! As you can see they are extremely hard, the broken leaf was the resul
  14. Thanks for the replies regarding the springs, the German Knupfer site looks fantastic but I managed to fine some spring steel from Reeves2000 which I have ordered as it was somewhat cheaper.
  15. Hi, there is nothing special about the saw I think it is a small Eclipse piercing saw with some fairly fine blades. Where possible I try and avoid using the piercing saw as I have a habit of breaking the blades and use a junior hacksaw with some eclipse blades if space permits. As for lubricant I don't use anything on the brass but would use a drop of oil on steel, having said this I am no expert and others might be able to advise if a lubricant would be better.
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