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About grab

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  1. Looks great! This model is also on my near future build list.
  2. Thanks a lot! Actually its only the 2nd 1/48 scale model I've ever made, I was focusing on 1/72 scale. The 1/48 scale requires a much different approach for painting and weathering. - Riveting: from my point of view riveting is a must in this scale. Its adding the needed extra detail to the surface, giving more playground for the weathering. A subtle wash with the right color (pure black to be avoided) should make it visible, but not prominent. - Textures: this advanced preshading method comes for a local fellow modeller, Mr. Karoly Bera (check his tutorials on the web, really worth it). I tried to adapt his solution to build up a more realistic, complex and non-uniform finish. I find it very effective, and fast way to do it. No postshading is needed, everyhing can be done with the thin final paint layer, especially if more tones are used. Some of my best practices: - smoothing every paint layers: I use dry!! 6000-8000 grit Micromesh or Mr Hobby Laplos abrasives go get a silk smooth surface for the next layer. I do it on the Surfacer, paint, coat. It helps to preserve the surface details, a thinner layer of gloss coat can be used. - no pure black: pure black is unrealistic in any scale, I use dark greens or greys instead (Tamiya XF-69 and XF-85 are good options). The same would apply for pure white, but the filter used for weathering will soften it. - calculating with effect of the scale, filter and the coating - I usually start with much lighter hue of the colours, as both the filters and the matt coat will darken it. The same applies for textures and preshading, leave it bit stronger, because after the final matt coat it will be just fine. - Tamiya Weathering Masters for soot and dust: my favorite materials to apply for gunsmoke and dust to the surface. I apply it with thin hair but stiff brush (for example Da Vinci Forte Basic flat 2), very easy to control.
  3. Thank you all for your kind words! I've only applied a very subtle drybrushing on the cockpit elements. Recently for that I'm using Tamiya Weathering Masters, as it allows much greater control, than Vallejo or enamel paint. For the straight rivet lines I used a conventional riveter, the SBS Model's Z63 Riveter. The round rivet pattern was done by a precision caliper compass, with sharp needles. As it can be adjusted by screw, the tool is solid, so such nice circles can be done.
  4. Hi, I would like to show you my latest build, inspired by the unique camo of the planes of 331st "Norvegian" squadron. I've managed to complete it in 1,5 months. I've used these aftermarket stuff: - Eduard Zoom photo echted parts - Quickboost seat (harness part had to be modified to be realistic) - Quickboost Exhausts - Quickboost Gunsight Additional enhancements: - riveting - scratch cockpit components, wirings I've painted the model with Tamiya paints, using the XF-81, XF-82 and XF-83 set. All markings were painted with custom masks More WIP photos: http://www.makett.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=129&t=5137 Thanks of watching!
  5. What material or product did you used for the oily marks at the bottom?
  6. Thanks a lot! The lower level of the snow is made of a mixture of white glue and cooking soda, the top is cooking soda fixed by hairspray.
  7. Thanks a lot for your kind words! I usally make seperate base for each of my kits, so the plain show base belongs to the Morane (as it was seen on the orginal war time photos of this particular plane). I admin its too plain, so I will add some objects , like fuel barrel, tilt, etc. to make it more busy. Actually this base belongs to a What-if aircraft, I've build some years ago: What's next? I'm thinking about to start one of these: - Academy 1/72 Me-163B - Academy 1/72 A-37B Dragonfly - Tamiya 1/48 F4F Wildcat - Revell 1/72 F4U-1A Corsair , or something completely different... And there are couple of kits on my bench which should finish first: - Airfix 1/72 Hurricane Mk I. - http://www.makett.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=129&t=4273&start=10 - Hasegawa 1/72 Ki-84 - http://www.makett.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=129&t=4806 - Eduard 1/48 Bf-109E-7 - http://www.makett.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=142&t=4995
  8. You mentioned you took it to Mosonshow? Did you also entered this model to the contest or was it diplayed at the club tables? I don't remember to see it at the contest area. (I was member of the jury in one of the master aircraft category)
  9. I would like to show you my latest finished kit, it took about 5 months to complete. It was the first short-run kit for me. The following enhancements were done: - riveting - drilling out in and outlets and the exhaust pipes - thinning the trailing edges - added more detail to the cockpit Gunze paints were used: H77, H405, H325, H329 For chipping I used AK Worn Effects fluid. WIP: http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235017047-morane-saulnier-ms-410c1-azur-172/ It won Gold medal in its Master category at Moson Show 2017. http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinhronsky/sets/72157682949580035
  10. Finished in time and it won Gold medal in its Master category at Moson Show 2017. http://www.flickr.com/photos/martinhronsky/sets/72157682949580035
  11. Short update. Actually I should finish it in a week, to it can be taken to Mosonshow 2017.... Machine guns: Position lights:
  12. Thanks a lot !! I can imagine.... I gave a chance to these new tool Airfix kits, so far I've completed this and Hurricane Mk I is being built since a while (http://www.makett.org/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=129&t=4273&start=10), but they are more troublesome than many short-run kits. Believe me, I was also close to do the same. If its not a W├╝rger, probably it happens. I had another one in my stash. I sold it right after I've started to build this, asap .
  13. I've completed this Fw 190 in the summer of 2015. I had big expectations of the arrival of this new tool kit, reviews were very positive, sadly it did not proved to be an easy kit to build (for me). I had to work hard to make proper fit. The following main modifications were done, among many small ones: - thinned the very thick training edges of the wings - added the missing MG ammo racks in the wheel wells - replaced the guns and the pitot to metal tubes - shortened the undercarriage legs, added brake wires - replaced the wheels Please also not the antenna wires are missing, as I only realized the small bump from the canopy is missing after the removal of the mask and I didn't risked to ruin the almost finished model to try to glue on it. Thank you for watching.
  14. Thanks for the photos, I have't had these yet. Meanwhile the fuselage has been glued together, I cannot remove the seat without damage anymore.... It will stay as it is.
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