Jeepers Creepers

Generally, a broach would be used after drilling a hole to ensure roundness, get a more accurate sizing of the hole and sometimes to smooth the finish in the hole. Normally in metal. So, for 'hole accuracy' really - if that makes sense.

Airfix Hi Tech was the Gunze one ... As an aside - have you joined the Midget and Sprite Club? http://midgetandspriteclub.com/ Don't know what part of the country you're in but if you're in Hampshire, or near it's borders: http://www.midgetandsprite-hampshire.info/index.htm Have fun!

You're welcome - I've got more for when I build my engines! Look forward to seeing it used ...

Forgot to say - it's proper - Welsh Steam Coal (best in the world) from Merthyr Tydfil.

One small bag of coal on it's way!

If you want some small bits of coal, I'll bring you some tomorrow?

http://www.paints4u.com Send them a sample and they'll send you what you want.

Glad I could help - it was well worth it too! H

The Finecast range of white metal kits fall into five groups. The first to appear in 1958 were the locomotive kits, which have been gradually added to over the last three decades. They were joined by a range of 1(24 scale model car kits called AUTO KITS. A new range of highly detailed 1/24 scale car kits were introduced together with a small range of 1/43 scale car kits. The final group are the 1/32 scale gauge 1 Steam Traction engine range. Since taking over production of the FINECAST white metal kits in 1988, South Eastern Finecast has added several new models to the range. A programme of renovation and updating was also commenced on the locomotive and car ranges. All revised locomotive and tender kits now include etched chassis and an increased number of detailed parts. Where possible one piece parts such as boilers and smokeboxes are now incorporated. From their website: http://www.sefinecast.co.uk

I think I may be able to help here ... Firstly, the norm is to put the regulator before the filter. Thereby filtering out any nasties (water or particles) just before use. There should be arrows on the castings pointing in the direction that you need to mount them. This is vital for both units. They should both point from the compressor toward the airbrush connection. The pressure is reduced or increased by the adjusting knob on the regulator. As stated, you will need to pull that up until it snaps into place, then turn it to the pressure you want. The 'snap' feature is a safety thing, but as you will probably be the only one using it, personally I wouldn't push it back down. Your choice. The filter has an automatic drain - nothing to do with pressure regulation. It lets out any moisture that is in the bottom. Also you will need to put some PTFE tape on that connection - you will be losing loads of air. All connections should be airtight! Hope this helps!

Hi there, bit late now - but having asked my mate who owns a Roller (albeit not a Garrett) it would appear that some did and some didn't have the belly tank. As there is a tank in the tender, it would depend on the size of the county i.e. distance between water stops! My own personal opinion on this is that Bandai used the same sprues for both this and the Pendleton Princess, and left it on the kit. On some road locos the steering gear is attached to the belly tank, and as I can't remember the detail of the Bandai instructions,it may well be that it was easier for them to leave the tank on instead of doing a lot of re-jigging! Looks really good.

Mike you are nuts, I'm with Daze on this one! Lovely looking display - will you be out of the home before Yeovilton? If you are, we'll see you then!

Hi Jeffnar, There is no reason why you shouldn't use this compressor - I would think it has a 1/4 or 1/8 inch BSP outlet (more likely 1/4) on which you would need to put a filter (some people refer to them as water traps) and then reduce the outlet down to the tiny fitting that seems to be standard on airbrushes. Pneumatic fittings are fairly widely available, if not from Machine Mart then you must have a pneumatic and hydraulic supplier locally, the tiny airbrush fitting would probably be available with the airbrush. As for an airbrush Paul (Little-cars) is the person I would personally speak to, he will go through with you what you need and is really helpful. I got mine from him. Hope this helps

Bump!!!

The M38 A1 - mmm, the "rounded" series - but I've often wondered how clumsily they must have driven with that gun! An aside - sorry - lovely model

Hi Ian, as far as I know there wasn't a kit of the M38 Jeep, so therefore the Jeep would be an MB, and looking at the windscreen it would have been different for an M38 anyway! Although the MB was only built from about July 1941 to September 1945 it was used for a lot longer. As for the truck - I don't know, but if you look on this website it may give you an idea! www.vintagemilitarytrucks.com Have fun!

Ahhhh, a real favourite - looks lovely!

Nice one Jerry - look forward to seeing it!

Seconded! And seeing as how a lot of us have them, how does it go together? Are we going to have a table of Bedfords at NSMS? Now there's a theme

If it's the one that was opposite (ish) Paul (Little-Cars) and along the same wall as Wonderland last year they generally don't show a name, but looking on the SMW floorplan I think it could be Simple 2 Trade!

Well done Mate - looks fantastic See you at GDSF? - We're there with the Mac again!!!!

It's "The Treasury" which is the first building fascia you see when you walk through into Petra - a jawdroppingly awesome sight. And Jordan's most famous tourist attraction! The carving which looks like an urn on top has a fair bit of damage due to the locals taking potshots at it because they believed it to be full of gold. Petra is known as the "rose red city, half as old as time" (Useless information lesson over!). I remember walking through a Herc at Fairford with all the pictures of Petra inside it back in the 80's!

Well, we've all got our favourites (and the list will be as long as your arm!).... try North Somerset, LHS is Frome, they meet at the Helicopter Museum on a monthly basis, and they we are a bunch of nutters, what more could you want?

The dust problem is not made by the airbrush, the surroundings will be the problem. A puraire filter which takes out the particles to about 99.9% would mean that the air you are using to put the paint on is brilliant, but will not affect the dust problem. The OB paints with rattle cans in the garage, no dusting there, and doesn't have a big problem, but he doesn't stir the dust into the air. I think Mike has the right idea, you don't need to go down the expensive route! Hope this helps.