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gamblor916

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Everything posted by gamblor916

  1. gamblor916
    Just received mine. There's a lot of plastic in the box. The likeness to Ripley is a bit iffy though.
  2. gamblor916
    I learned from building Aoshima kits that you need to make your own tabs and deviate from the instructions where appropriate. The rear axle fittings really are wobbly and vague so I used Lego to help line things up. The front steering assembly fits well but this area really needs a lot of strength. I used a lot of glue here to make sure of that. A couple of shallow and minuscule bumps mark where the engine should go. Again applied lots of glue to make sure things don't move. Lots of glue, drop the cabin in, jiggle it around to make sure its seated correctly. I thought I could build it so I could switch between open and closed. Test fitting the body panels made me realise that it was one or the other. I'll build this open so I don't have to worry about fit. I have another kit to build closed up and I already have ideas to make it fit properly.
  3. gamblor916
    You can choose either. He rode with both options.
  4. gamblor916
    Gorgeous build. They don't make cars like this any more.
  5. gamblor916
    That black part is the camera facing forward so the front should be a glossy lens. The square in the front cowl is the hole for the front camera. If the camera isn't fitted then a weight equal to the camera is fitted to be fair to all teams. Also I think the black parts in the number is the reflection of the photographer because the edging is probably mylar.
  6. gamblor916
    No need to redo the whole thing. Just fill the holes with superglue, re-drill and touch up the orange. Removing the screen and giving it another thin coat of clear will blend it in nicely.
  7. gamblor916
    I think that mesh inside looks a bit too thick. You should spray metallic black over it to get that pattern then remove it. I think you can get a good result from that. For the silver just use any thin foil. I think it looks better than paint.
  8. gamblor916
    Back to galaxyg's build it's a pretty car back when Ferrari posters were on the wall. The 512BB and 288GTO were just drop dead gorgeous.
  9. gamblor916
    I really have no idea how the front is attached. It is however different to the way Tamiya separates it. This is the 2014 bike.
  10. gamblor916
    Photos of the inside fairing are extremely rare. When you see them off the bike they're usually placed with the outside up, likely to protect the finish from scratches. These are from 2006 and show the same yellowish carbon. It's likely following year models will have the same look. I'd use something like this to replicate it. https://www.spotmodel.com/product_info.php?products_id=53763
  11. gamblor916
    Thanks for the comments 👍 I agree. He was another of Japan's hopes that didn't quite make it. His Pramac bike was also an interesting livery.
  12. gamblor916
    Finally finished and after some wax will go into the cabinet. I wish I ordered a second one as the Batman livery would have been a nice addition. Added some extra details, 3D printed bits here and there. Decals are from Cartograf so are superb.
  13. gamblor916
    Engine and swing arm is mounted. Forks are done. The kit decals are old and disintegrate on contact with water. I put three coats of clear on the ones I needed and replaced all the carbon with Studio 27 decals.
  14. gamblor916
    Honda (and other teams) have been using carbon kevlar for their fairings for a long time. Below pic is from 2002. Second pic is from 2008. Last pic is the Gresini bike from 2014 which is actually a 2013 model.
  15. gamblor916
    From what I've seen the fairings are the same carbon kevlar but the exhaust area is covered with silver heat shield.
  16. gamblor916
    The whites on that decal sheet are quite transparent. You really need to double up or back with white.
  17. gamblor916
    The There are actually oval voids in the engine block where the pistons would go. Then the covers go on and its hidden away forever. There are 2 big issues with assembly I've found. The exhaust is designed to be glued together at different stages which I ignored. Just cut it up and assemble as one piece. The harder to fix issue is with the front fairing. It's moulded as one piece, which means the holes for the intake and lights are clearly visible on completion. Also the sill is half the width its supposed to be making side fairing the wrong shape and the panel separation is in the wrong area. I found this out after I applied paint and decals so trying to fix it is going to be tricky.
  18. gamblor916
    I modelled and 3d printed both of them. I'm waiting for some more resin to print some more.
  19. gamblor916
    I've wanted one of these on the shelf for a while. It's an older Tamiya kit with some strange assembly procedures but the quality is still there. I've printed a new chain, thinned and drilled the brake discs, and made a mould of the heel plates to make detailing easier.
  20. gamblor916
    I was also going to model a figure for my R1M but I only have the boots and helmet done.
  21. gamblor916
    Just search for motorcycle fairing stand. You can always design your own too.
  22. gamblor916
    You can make a simple one using brass or plastic rod.
  23. gamblor916
    You should build a stand for the fairings out of brass tubing to show off all that detail.
  24. gamblor916
    Also Monster, Rockstar etc. Probably young folks as an all day replacement for coffee. I don't care for it either.
  25. gamblor916
    Thanks for the comments. I would have preferred his number 8 bike but those decals are beyond rare and finding another kit for a reasonable price is almost impossible.
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