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Everything posted by gamblor916

  1. That looks fantastic. The finish is perfect.
  2. Wow 15mm is a lot. You should check it against the kit chain.
  3. You can use photo etch radiator pattern and cut it yourself. Strange that they didn't include front and back pe in that set. I know that Hobby Design and S27 have front and back radiator faces for their RC213V sets.
  4. Very nice. The exhausts in particular look very realistic.
  5. Before any cutting just test fit the chain. It may fit perfectly and you can use the Tamiya screws. I used the Hobby Design chain on my Honda. It's the non moving type.
  6. You have to cut a slot so there is room to adjust. If you look at my chain it is tight with no sag, at the absolute limit of fit. I had to cut a bit of the swing arm to fit the front sprocket. Best solution would be to add another link and move the rear axle back but that would be a lot of extra work. You should build the engine and fit it now to test it. Also measure it against the kit chain. It will save you a headache later I assure you.
  7. I've only built their ZX-10Rs. Shape looks accurate enough. Generally simplified, some parts are moulded together. Fit is pretty good. Needs a bit of work if you want a detailed model.
  8. I used a Top Studio chain for this Ducati. You can see I didn't cut a slot here and the front sprocket is too far back and hits the swing arm. The rear axle needs to be maybe 0.5mm forward.
  9. You have to kind of treat it like a real bike. Drill out a slot at the rear axle so you can move it forward and backward a little bit. I used a 1.2mm brass tube for the axle. I don't think using Tamiya screws will work here. Fit front sprocket, make it able to spin but secure it with a screw. Fit rear sprocket then chain. Pull it tight and jam something in the slot to hold it. Add glue. Good luck.
  10. Building the chain is one thing. Fitting it is when the fun starts.
  11. It's a game changer. If only the clean-up process wasn't so toxic and messy.
  12. The 2014 Honda needs a few electronic bits at the front to be modeled and printed. I used a Hobby Design chain and detail parts here and there.
  13. The Konica Minolta Honda is one of the prettier race liveries. I printed a few small parts like footpegs and carbon bits.
  14. These have been in progress for too long and I want to get them into the finished list. The Tamiya Red Bull YZR500 has a few parts printed including clutch, chain and fork bottoms. I also ran into problems with the plastic splitting which I tried fixing with extra thin cement, sanding, masking and more clear coat. I have another YZR in the stash and saw the same seam lines present. The plastic is white, so very hard to pick up unless you look for it.
  15. There's no Lorenzo decals that I know of. I've tried looking for Lorenzo decals in the past and haven't found anything. Your best bet is to to do it yourself and have it printed at Spotmodels print lab.
  16. Sometimes places like brandsoftheworld.com will have vector images of the logos you need.
  17. If you're looking for a nice aluminium then I suggest Gaianotes 009 bright silver. It has a non-reflective white aluminium look.
  18. I have spare decals but I am in Australia. If you can't get it closer to home I can send it to you.
  19. I made a calibration file that works for me. I get around 5% oversizing on my prints which is fine for my purposes. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5254359 I've found this blog which has some useful advice. https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/ The post regarding light off delay is interesting. I've found this blog which has some useful advice. https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/
  20. I like how the chain separates to accommodate the sprockets. An idea to uh "borrow".
  21. Love the progress. You should get a Dremel to scratch up the rear disc with circular lines rather than parallel ones. You can also grind the Tamiya screw heads flat to make it easier to place a PE piece over it.
  22. Going nuts with the carbon fibre. Not even all of it.
  23. I think separations like that are caused by the plastic cooling too much and causing a boundary that doesn't bond properly. I've have paintjobs split along those lines long after the model is finished. Now I brush on Tamiya extra thin generously to both sides to try and prevent that. Covering it with decals don't really help as it splits the decals as well.
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