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gamblor916

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Everything posted by gamblor916

  1. Thanks for the comments. The gap in the fairings was bugging me so I added tabs to keep it all together.
  2. Printed a chain and lower fairing for the R1. Z Workshop resin on the left, mine on the right. The Tamiya plastic fits better so I'm going to try to rescue the decals off the resin one.
  3. Finally finished. Added Tabu tobacco decals, Top Studio chain and various other bits and pieces.
  4. That's another issue to consider when choosing a 3D printer. I use Lychee and love it. I have a Saturn that supports it but when I have to replace the LCD I really hope that I'm not locked into using Chitubox to slice.
  5. I hate rim decals too but they look so good on a bike. I've never found any trick to getting them to lay down any easier. Just patience and solvent. I've done it cut from Hasegawa finish coloured film but getting stripes exactly the same width is another nightmare altogether.
  6. Nice start on a great looking bike. I also have the same airbrush. Going on a decade now I think and still haven't needed to replace any parts.
  7. Looking good. Only thing is to cut the chain now to get it through the swing arm. Ignore the instructions that say to do it at the end.
  8. Yeah I would glue pins on one side, pva is fine for this. Put in the small sprocket, attach the other side, no glue but hold it in place with thread. Then working in groups of 3 or 4 links glue the outer links with super glue. Move the thread, glue another set and so on. Flip it and repeat for the other side. The big sprocket you can shimmy in at the end. Install on the bike and fit the last 2 links. I've done a few this way and it works with a bit of patience.
  9. I think Hobby Design makes the best looking chain. It's a bit fiddly and you really need a jig of sorts but it's fairly straight forward to put together. I use a bit of card and thread. Also I've switched to Loctite power flex superglue. I see you're in Oz so I get that from Bunnings. Just squeeze some out on a card and use a pin to apply. Cut 87 and 88 first, then glue the rollers then glue the outer links.
  10. A little more done. Pretty close now.
  11. It was only a matter of time. With appropriate decals you can build at least 3 versions. A late 2019, 2020 and 2021. Pre-ordered 2 for now.
  12. if you look for 新金型 (new mould) you can see for the past few months there have been regular releases of new mould kits. TZR20, KR250, Supra, MR2 etc. I'm hoping this trend of 80s-90s 250s brings a CBR250RR or ZX250R.
  13. For trim Hasegawa mirror finish is great. It's very thin and can go around curves a bit. Be aware they make two kinds though. The thin one which is TF1 and a thicker one TF927 which is good for flat surfaces like door mirrors. Looks like it's in stock at BNA too.
  14. Nice work. Really liking the description to get a nice skin tone.
  15. That looks really good. The masking looks really crisp and that red really pops.
  16. I used a bright red from Gravity Spain for Ferrari 1996-2003 racers.
  17. A little bit of progress on the Desmosedici. Footpegs printed on my Elegoo Saturn.
  18. Nice to see that your order arrived. I see that you have Porsche liquid silver. My pot had a strange consistency and sprayed out in clumps and ruined a paintjob. I made sure it was thoroughly mixed. I check all my Gravity USA colours now before committing to plastic.
  19. Looks great! I've yet to build a Hasegawa bike kit. The plastic seems to be a bit softer than Tamiya but parts are just as detailed or more.
  20. I can't speak about the Aqueous range of paints but the Mr Hobby lacquer paints are fundamental in my builds. Tamiya lacquers and Gaianotes are also fantastic paints.
  21. This kit practically falls together but I made things more difficult by lighting it and adding aftermarket parts.
  22. I think it's worth the extra detailing because so much more is visible on bikes. I have to post what I'm working on now.
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