TimMather

and there we are finally done. thanks for looking in

then onto the waist where i glued the fishing line in place and then cut to siz and finally painted clear yellow. then i put the legs together and we have quite a nice looking inner frame then i got onto the huge job of putting screws and metal etch parts into all the areas i had rautered out. then it was onto finally putting it together

so after days and days of applying microsol and x20, stabbing and slashing at the decals, i got rid of most of the silvering. i did my best at getting rid of it but just to let you know that im not 100% happy. so put a wash over some parts last night and this morning i put a flat clear over all the decals and was quite surprised how i had mostly got rid of the silvering. and started this evening with final building. i had hand painted the eyes, firstly with white and then trusty model color fluro green. the weapons were done and ready. started on the inner frame body. got the head done. abit of silvering but i tried my best. then on with the arms..

ive painted the symbols, they were a right pain in the neck, i did plan on just using a pink fine liner pen but some of the symbols dont have a sharp edges so you cant get a neat line, in the end i had to airbrush the symbols then use the stickers as masks and then paint white other it. turned out good enough... now im onto the decals, really like these custom ones, they just need lots of microsol to get flat.

im hardly using alclad or AK xtreme anymore, i use gaia mostly. also found found a nice lacquer metallic called shadow chrome, its not chromey at all but is a really nice metallic, its 12 quid but its 100ml so does work out cheaper than alclad and is tough as nails. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Shadow-Chrome-Inspire-Airbrush-Paint-Solvent-100ml-/111477168656

so had a mega allday paint up yesterday, started with doing everything in alclad white primer which is good as it dries fast so once i had primed everything the first parts were dry enough to paint in the colors i wanted. i saw a very nice build of the barbatos a couple of weeks ago where the guy did all the vents a light gray but did the v fin yellow, i really liked that idea, so have done some tweaking of the paint scheme and the blue parts are now purple and all the thrusters and vents are lavender. the v fin is staying yellow but the yellow i used was too bright so put a tiny tiny bit of red into it to give it a more orangey yellow tone. everything else is fairly standard. did all that yesterday in one sitting with gloss colors, so i dont have to do a layer of clear to prep for decals. this morning i had an hour free to do some masking so did the shoulders and the feet... on the shoulders i painted the lavender yesterday so i could mask the edge off, perhaps it would have been easier to paint the white first and mask the other way, but hay ho. turned out crap, like most of my masking il give it a light sand and touch up. also dont the feet, again a tiny bit of bleed through, because im a foo-foo, again i little touch up and some panel line wash will hopefully cover up how crap i am hehehe so thats where we are at.

thanks guys, il look into that.

any chance we scifi guys could have a group build or buddy build?

its the normal 1st form, the anime is quite good, i didnt get into the hobby from the anime, so alot of them i just cant grasp it, like unicorn which has great suits but i find the story too melodramatic, but iron blooded orphans was quite good. it goes on pretty good, just dries super quick so you need to keep mixing abit of thinner to keep it wet. thanks for looking in

looks great so far.

ive never had problems with it rubbing off when using it as a base for other paints, but yes it is very rubbery and as a primer it doesnt sand very well. i have the choice to either put the inner frame together as soon as i paint the other parts of the inner frame or leave the parts and paint all the colored armor parts, then put it all together at the end. i think it is best to leave the primer to cure, so il do it all at the end. i wouldnt recommend doing, what im doing but i just love the look of that black so had to try it.

right sorry ive not been keeping people updated, been abit of a crazy time (i work in politics) anyway last day or two ive been getting on with things and progress is coming along nicely. i finally fixed the feet, i wanted the feet to have about the same look as the MG red astray feet, IE short, wide, low set and a thin ankle. which gives the over all profile a samurai type feel, i really didnt want to try and totally scratch build something myself (dont think i could even if i tried ) i went through, all my spare parts, all my resin spare parts and nothing was working, then i had a look at all the kits i had given up on and got bored off, and then it hit me, have a look at the SD kits ive got. and found the sazabi looked cool, then found that if i just cut one piece of plastic, i found it would fit into the round ankle and that i could then it into the ball joint of the SD sazabi foot. now i know it isnt to everyones taste, i totally dig it and am sure once i paint the foot mostly white, with a few red bits it will look great, so here we go with what i like and think is better. so once that was done, i could start painting the inner frame, this is where i think i am probably going to get some poo-poo, because i want the frame black and i know it isnt the right thing to do but there is just something about vellejo black primer that makes it the coolest looking paint finish, i dont know what it is, ive tried using other blacks and going over with various satin clears, it never has that look. so yeah i did 2 layers of vellejo black primer for the whole inner frame, i then hand painted the gold details with gaia starbright gold. ive got a few parts and pistons that will be chromed that i will do tomorrow before i can say all the inner frame parts are painted.

looks great, nice color scheme as well.

woohoo i have a claim to fame :thumbsup: :thumbsup: if you were so inclined, you could go for a BT model zoids kit. just depends how you feel about that sort of thing.

yep i built mine last year, molding was as good as bandai, they are super super stiff, and connections do not come apart after they go together, so if you plan on fully painting it, i wouldnt dry build it first as youll never get parts apart. the red astray and strike are the only good bootlegs worth buying as quality is high.

this one is the red one that is over priced because i think it is now out of production (paid 80 quid) so perhaps it was a little over priced, but for 50or 60 it is about right. thought on kotobukiya zoids in general is that, it has LOTS of parts so alot of parts to de-nub. they are super detailed and put bandai to shame in terms of cramming detail everywhere. the size is alot bigger than you expect from a gundam kit. i bought this and built it straight away and have bought 3 more of them for the stash the lightening saix, dark horn and the iguan, so yeah i like them even though i have no real interest is the subject, i just think they are fun and look cool. the only real bad thing i would say is the mold seams can be brutal, if you want a nice looking model and some parts could be designed better as leg joints cant be glued to remove seams so in some places you are stuck with nasty seams. i give them a thumbs up, if you are into gunpla and dont mind painting tons of tiny parts on sticks itll be right up your street.

well seeing how ive been banned from the place i used to put my build threads, i guess this is my new home if youll have me around. im already about half way through, so this will be a mega long post to get you up to speed. so this was meant to be just a quick build, its quite a simple kit so a few simple upgrades, some extra decals and a little modifying of parts. so its a cool looking kit and quite simple, the things i really dont like are the chest and the big boomerang Vfin on the head. so the chest, if you look at the vents, they dont look right, there seems to be too much of a gap between the yellow and the blue parts, so first job was to do some shaving and bring them closer together, so i used my crappy 1 quid electric nail filer and took them down then sanded smooth, i also had to take the edges off the yellow part so it sat flush. seemed simple, but then having a test fit, the white square part in the middle of the chest would not fit, so then had to alter that, and then after that the connection to the inner frame wouldnt fit so had to alter that, lol you see how me trying be clever snow balled, but i got there in the end and now all the parts do fit, and look good, they do all fall apart so after painting everything will have to be glued in place. i then went to work on the V fin, to me i dont like the size of it, so cut it into 3 parts and sanded off the ends and glued it back together on a different anglewhich i think looks better. afew months ago i bought a ton of watch screws and parts for 5 quid off ebay, in different sizes and patterns. so drilled holes in the parts and used a small reamed so things will be flush... did that with lots of parts on the kit. and that is about where we are at, im now in the process of de-nubbing the whole inner frame ready for paint, ive always done metallic inner frames, but i did see a really cool looking build with matt black inner frame, so i will do most of the inner frame matt black, but with afew shiney metallic parts. i also designed a decal sheet last month with cool logos for all my kits that dont have decals, i also have alot of 3rd party HIQ warning decals i will use. so that is me up to date, im just sanding nubs and then i can get onto painting, thanks.

i do on my facebook page, im not sure if im allowed to post links? but if its not mods feel free to edit post. i did a tutorial a month ago, so if you go down the page youll see the long post http://www.facebook.com/Tim-Mather-Mecha-Modelling-844962995629874/

here is my Full Armor Dussack. i used hydrographics and colored candies and quartz liquid glass 2 pack clear. i also used modelling holic holographic warning decals. it looks alot better than the photos, i think i need a better camera.

here is my zoids model kit. i used gaianotes metallics over a black gloss lacquer base. i used gaianote gloss yellow undercoat and over that used super italian red by mr color. the panel lining was done with a indian ink pen. and finally alclad matt coat over all the red.

thanks for the reply

hi if you could reply? ive made an A5 sheet with all the logos, here are 2 photos of the sheet, il get rid of the background for the proper sheet. if its not possible, just let me know thanks.

thanks for all the replies. yes its really a monster, weights a ton. its a garage kit by luca zampriolo, im not really sure about the actual cannon of the model or how it fits into the gundam timelines or if its a one off inspired from the series? glad you like the decals, when i had the idea to be different from all the other builds ive seen of this kit(they were all heavily weathered) i was worried that a clean build model would liike plain and boring, so thought it was a good idea to have lots of warning decals to break things up more. thanks for the reply

thanks pete

hi, ive done 2 big resin kits and a gundam conversions as well. if its just a snapped part super glue is the thing i use to glue the part, if youve lost some of the chipped parts putty should be fine.