TimMather

well, ive been looking at instructions and reference pics for ages now, so isnt a problem, i could probably tell you where all the parts go now. oh dont, i hate panel lining with a passion.

thanks for the reply, ive always just sanded etch and used normal primer, didnt even know there wqas such a thing as etch primer, il search it out, thanks.

hi, i wondered if any of you guys can help me, i am building a gundam with which il be using ALOT of tiny metal beads, i think in total something like 80 to 100 that i want to paint, usually for metal that needs painting i would just sand it, but for this many it would take forever. so the reason im asking you guys is i know you use burnishing fluid for metal tank tracks, i wordered if this burnishing fluid, roughs up the surface enough so that primer would stick abit better? any help would be great

another day of masking. another few days of masking to go.

thanks fella

so, have totally finished the red masking, and started on the grays, im doing all the really tough complicated bits first. been using alot of blue tac to masking corners and bends as tape always lifts from curves, its working out well. forgot to take pics before i peeled it, but il take some pics tomorrow to show what i mean, heres some of todays work. have to say even i am impressed with how neat im getting with masking, im also finding it quite fun and love the pay off after painting peeling it off.

i thought about it, but im really liking flat and clean paint jobs at the moment, there will be the metal parts gviing it a bit of bling. nearly done the red/russet masking, only taken pics of one of each of the 2 parts. got to do one more bit of the rear skirt so il do that and start on the grays tomorrow. oh and cant believe i didnt see this before, but now ive noticed it i cant stop from seeing it. the middle chest piece is well wonky lol,

yeah, lol. im always doing red things, im looking at my backlog and i think about half of the kits are red, rebawoo, red astray, couple more different design sazabis, some ducati kits, a mclaren, a toyota gt1, 2 zoids one red and one gray and red. i need to put the red down haha. anyway, i tested about 5 different reds and still ended up going with the stanard mr color red, ive got mr color russet which il do on some parts which is a tad darker and duller. the red is really bright now as its glossy but after its matted should be great.

6hours painting, already gone through 2 jars of mr color red. tomorrow il start with some masking, which should be nice and simple seeing how most masking is already panel lined making masking a breeze.

it is a chinese mega online site where venders/retailers can sell almost anything like ebay or amazon. as it is a domestic site for china only, you have to use a agent. as i do mostly mecha/gundam modelling the ungrade parts are not easy for find outside asia to use taobao. heres a link to the thread i wrote on how to use it.

so did alot of the armor parts priming, still quite a few little bits of armor to do, but they will be quite quick as they are just single color smalls bits that dont need masking or decals.

bhiner/taobao delivery today. no kits just parts. AW photoetch metal thrusters 1/100 cars for dioramas photoetch bending tool fixed pose kotobukiya hands metal pipes and colored piping carbon fibre decals full detail set for tamiya NSR500 decals

its all slowing down lol, anyway il start with priming the armor very soon. ive finished all the inner parts. the metallics are all gloss lacquer black onto plastic, then 2 coats of gaia blade silver. the inner parts are all done and in a cupboard so no dust.

right, not posted alot this week, had a nightmare with those cracks... i thought it be simple, just paint over them at correct angle and light presure andwont even need to mask, did that and the shade wasnt right, so thought maybe i used a different color, so sprayed again and again the color didnt match. so then had to wait a day mask properly and repaint, anyway its done, got declas on it. then panel lined with indian ink pens today. so i just have to flat coat, which il do tomorrow morning, im too hot and stuffy to paint today and im enjoying watching le mans. il take some photos after flat coating.

well finished all the masking and painting, some parts needed a blast with clear as were not great as a base for decals, i usually use normal mr color thinner as its nice fast drying, but ran out so had some self levelling which is the slow dryin retarded version, and its really messed up some parts...... it looks like it has melted the paint underneth as its drying, it also cracked the paint in a couple of parts, hopefully it wont get worse and il leave it for a few days and just paint over the effected areas.. the other parts are fine, il can get on with decalsw, heres what i started in the evening....

oh yeah the the top of the chest that head sits on is staying just 2 colors, looking at the original build and seeing all the masking im not a sadomasochist

yeah no probs, thats fine, i just wanted somethingto save me some time. anyway some of it doesnt look like much but takes forever to mask. also painted afew bits of photoetch and glued it on, abit annoyed about the dayglow green(mr color) doesnt pop like my old trusty vellejo game air green. the orange looks great though. heres todays efforts.. you may see in the first group pic ive not masked the white part for those little vents, from other builds ive seen i think they look alot better all white with just alittle panel lining. those big round shoulder joints were a total bitch to mask, its not perfect, but il panel line the inside edge and hopefully cover the imperfections right off to relax and watch the xbox conference later

hay, can anyone help me, usually id just lightly sand metal that i want to paint, before priming it with normal primer. but i have these shiney metal pipes that for the waist(shown on page1) really dont want to scuff each one, itll take forever. could i use burnishing fluid as a pre primer? does burnishing fluid leave the surface in better (rougher) shape so primer sticks better??? any help would be great. thanks.

ok yeasterday i did all the main colors... gaia pure white, gaia neutral gray IV (074), mr color 399, mr color MT01(gray color set), gaia pure black, mr color dark seagray 25. the shoulder joints right ithe middle of top pic, i have since changed to a lighter color. today ive been masking all day, now ive rescribed the edges masking is super fast as i just have to run knife along the panel line ive made. the finished parts, well for today anyway, more masking tomorrow.

right now we are rolling. primed about 2/3rds this morning, did all the parts that will end up flat painted for the inner frame. im only doing afew inner frame parts metallic and they will just be done with glossblack onto straight plastic, then metallic coat. i use lacquer gloss black and metallic so will be able to do that in one go. i did alot of the priming in white, as some bits of parts will be white. so il get on with putting so colors down tomorrow, oh by the way the primer i use is alclad. these are the metallic parts and the red armor.

well tonight was a total waste of time, i put parts in ultrasonic cleaner yesterday, rinced off, cleaned tuper ware, dried it and then lined with paper towel and left to dry for 24 hrs, this evening was all ready to paint, new filter on extractor all ready to go and start putting parts on sticks and i start these tiny drops of grease on alot of the parts, and i come to find out that a family member was frying up bacon and was doing it next to my parts, FFS so i had to clean them all off again and now they are drying off in a safe place out of the way of everything. so was in the mood for modelling with nothing to do. so in the end i thought i may as well photograph some of my old kits with the new camera and lighting set up. heres some of the highlights. i swear sooner or later you will see some actual modelling on the sazabi lol

right, this round of prep is all done, split the parts up into plastic and resin, il give the a soapy bath for 24 hours, then il put in the ultrasonic cleaner then i can get on with priming.

i dont want to get political, so if against rules just delete thread (plz dont ban me) anyway this photo is doing the rounds on social media and to me it just looks fake, the writing seems like its photoshopped. can anyone clarify if these are RAF aircraft or what missile or bomb it is(sorry im total noob with aircraft, scifi is my thing). any help telling weather this is fake or not would be great.

its basically a full guide to modding parts, adding detail, scratch building parts for a gundam. the guy is one of the best builder in the world and has got to the finals of gundam builders world cup(with an unpainted build which is super super rare) its a full guide but just for one model, which he will probably get to the finals this year as well.