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catdude01

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Everything posted by catdude01

  1. Test fitting of the hull, always do this from time to time to detect any issue before you get to a more complicated stage. Beautiful fitting, like a glove, and look at the size! okay is smaller than almost all the tanks but still is a great one.
  2. Weathering of the engine started with a wash of black, then another with burnt umber.
  3. The instructions give you a guide of color for the engine, but I used instead the pictures of the reference book.
  4. Hi all! This month I started a new challenge, my very first kit in 1/16 scale and on top of that from World War One, the Takom 1/16 FT-17 Renault! At first I was reluctant to choose this kit, since I have no experience on that scale and I have read about WWI in the past, but never work a kit from that era, so I'm on uncharted waters in many ways. I order the kit with a book reference which I receive from Spruebrothers in just 4 days! (consider that I’m out of the States in the Caribbean, Puerto Rico). Started right away to look at the parts and get familiarized and also look at the information and pictures of the reference book. So I started now calling this a Char, not a panzer, not a tank, that’s the word for tank in French. Also found that this tank was call during WWI just as FT! The FT-17 name was later after the war due to the amount of variants and other French’s projects related. This Char was considered the first tank ! and was used in many conflicts and many countries, so I found a lot of references for the colors. I started right away with the engine, at first the pictures were difficult to find, and even I confuse the American version with the french one. The engine its just called 4 HP Renault engine, the American one is the BUDA HU engine. The building its very straight forward, some cleaning is needed, but is minimal, the fitting is perfect. I added the cabling, the sparks plugs and some metal tubing to represent it as much real as possible. Primer was next in black and for that task I used Krylon black color in a can. The cover is great and its dries in 15-20 minutes. (sorry for the bad pictures).
  5. Hi: Yes the washes are done using tamiya flat black but very diluted, you can also do it using vallejo or ammo equivalents, the results are similar. About the last pictures that look very green then goes brown, its because the oils make that wet effect during the process of fading, but after the oils dries and 2 coats of flat varnish, the effect of the filters returns as you can see in the final picture. Hope this clarify your question. (^^)/
  6. Thank guys, glad you like it, its was a great kit to work.
  7. My finished Tamiya 1/35 M4A3 Sherman 105 howitzer. Only a metal barrel was added, otherwise is OOB. Kit was painted in Black and White as explained by Jose Luis Lopez in his Book Black and White Technique. Finished details with Ammo products.
  8. Well this fella has come to the finish line, Dust and mud added, figure done, lens lights added using Sticko silver dots, stowage is handmade using Aves Epoxy, just need to add a rope and some loose tools. Hope you like it, its a great kit considering the old it is. So on this final animation you can see thw whole process in seconds to the final stage. Hope you like it and can help you work on yours!
  9. started the Fading process using oils. I used some blue oils for the shadows and some yellows for the highlights. I Blend the yellows and the blues separated from each other and here you can see the results.
  10. And here is with the markings done using template from Lion Roar WWII US Vehicles Markings 1. First time using it and I must say I love the results.
  11. Sherman WIP: first a filter using model master sand, then another filter using burnt umber. Last a wash using mig brown for dark green and a pin wash using PLW black night.
  12. 2 layers of faded olive drab using a mix of tamiya olive drab and dark yellow. On a closer look you can see the details done in black & white showing between the layers.
  13. I make this gif file so you can see more clearly the progress between the Black & White steps.
  14. Step 4 of the black & white modulation. Added some chipping, scratches and darker glazes and pinwashes and a more dark weathering.
  15. Step 3 of the Black & White Modulation adding glazes of Black, pin washes to underlines lines, holes, etc. Some pre weathering also started.
  16. Step two of the Black & White modulation continues with detailing white parts using a brush with Vallejo white. Look how the parts painted in brush pop out of the kit!
  17. The fun part begins, using black and white from tamiya, the step 1 of the black & white modulation.
  18. My first post on this forum! Hello from Puerto Rico in the Caribbean! For my first post I will start showing my latest work, and old favorite from Tamiya, M4A3 105 mm Howitzer just for the fun of it. Lot of stuff can be done to correct here and there, adding PE, changing wheels for AFV, and hull from Italeri, etc..but forget it, this is a build to have fun, so is going out of the box, except for the metal barrel of course. Here was my start during the spare time in the week. The kit is done in a few hours. The next day, after sanding the lines in the turret and make some texture on it using the Tamiya thin glue (melting the plastic surface and making texture using a brush with stiff bristles.) Primer was applied using a can from Walmart. Also the figure was base painted using vallejo colors.
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