Jump to content

Serkan Sen

Gold Member
  • Posts

    1,581
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    45

Everything posted by Serkan Sen

  1. I think I found the reason of shorter NLG door I modeled: First comparison with YF-12A drawings: The blue one is the sketch l used in existing whell well. The pink one is the new sketch. Also a comparison with updated/corrected A-12 drawing: The red areas I had somehow forgotten to include in the existing well model... Also the nitrogen tanks seem that they were modelled a bit undersized. When all these missing areas added the door length matches the value what I calculated... Serkan
  2. New Revell Blackbird release has let me do such conversion:
  3. You caught me!.. I have realised too that the DF is referring to diameter but not the flange height. You were faster than me...
  4. Here is the method I decided to use: If I get the rim diameter and find a nice side view with minimum perspective distortion then I can roughly calculate the door dimensions. To get the rim dimensions I have to know the wheel size. After a little search in web I found that the wheel is 25x6.75 type VII. A bit reverse engineering but it works most of the time... From Dunlop wheel catalogue here are the specs of the wheel: where That means the rim outer diameter is equal to D+2xDF. Using a proper side view I can approximate the dimensions of the door referencing to rim diameter: and in millimeters in 1:48 scale: The Revell door length seems a bit longer (46.20 mm) whereas the printed one is 2.5 mm shorter. Now I have to find where this difference comes from... Serkan
  5. During my 1:72 Italeri conversions to improve a bit the nose well I copied the well details from Revell kit which has many other horrible inaccuracies especially at the cockpit and canopy area.
  6. Here are the kit and printed nose wells: There is around 3mm difference in well and door lengths. I need to find out the reason and I have no access to real aircraft to measure the door size. I have an idea how to calculate it but I need some input data... Serkan
  7. Here are some close view photos: Next step is to perform nose wheel well dry fit... Serkan
  8. The marked print supports have been removed. Outer flaps were detached from wing. With a little effort the new part has been placed to its position:
  9. Here are original Revell assembly and the printed parts for Revell and Testors kit: Next step is to perform dry fit. Serkan
  10. Some updates in this build: The wing planform from drawing has been printed out and compared with kit wing: The flaps and slats will be split from wing and flap hinge line will be corrected by adding an insert. The slat tip will be also reshaped to get correct angle. (see the drawings in my previous post). To bring the tertiary doors and therefore entire engine assembly to the correct position a part has been designed with 9mm insert and all fairings have been added to this model: Here is the entire exhaust assembly with this insert: The model is ready to print for dry fit. It will take around 4 hours to get the result. Serkan
  11. Awesome!.. You should have either eagle eyes with very precise hands or high quality work tools to perform such micro surgery PE work... Serkan
  12. The bay looks awesome. I will follow this build with great interest. Serkan
  13. Thanks Bob. Based on my modelling injuries experience the best healing method for x-acto wound is to glue though the clean cut with cyano and close it with medical adhesive tape instead of stitches. The only problem I have with standard cyano is that it is very brittle (no flexibility). But it stops bleeding very quickly and stops the pain miraculously. (Sometimes I forget that cut and continue to work and it bleeds again as the glue is brittle ) https://www.healthline.com/health/super-glue-on-cuts Today I will remove the medical tape to see the status...
  14. Have you identified any other significant issue or preferably keep as company confidential?
  15. Finally I figured out why the Revell engine is around 10mm short and still fits well to the cowling. Because the wing trailing sweep is not correct, shortened cowling length and shift in tertiary doors, flap hinge lines etc... The IFR port should be moved a little forward and the fillet at inboard wing leading edge and engine cowling junction has to be enlarged but these are minor modifications compared to trailing edge relevant issues... Serkan
  16. I think I found out why the engine was scaled down and around 10mm shorter than it should be. I will report further investigation results in my topic soon: Serkan
  17. Dear Nikolay, I was really wondering if everything was ok with you as I haven't seen you here for a long time. I am very happy that you are here back again Serkan
  18. Here is the comparison of the new Revell and the old Italeri/Testors with printed parts: Next step is to add wing/nozzle blended area which was removed to fit the exhaust assembly. Serkan
  19. The parts were taped together with masking tape for dry fit: The nozzle assembly needs an extension part around 10mm to bring the exhaust to correct position. Serkan
  20. The engines look outstanding although a bit undersized to me. A masterpiece work Alan. Serkan
  21. That should be ok when glued together with polystyrene glue. At least @Alan P had no issue during his build.
  22. Yesterday I have reshaped my left thumb with x-acto while I was working on flaps. Fortunately I am very experienced to glue such clean cuts (around 2cm long deep cut) with cyano as I did many times in the past. No worry, I am a doctor, not in medical but doesn't matter... Most probably next two weeks I won't be able to make any further progress... Let's see what I can do during healing period... Serkan
  23. Here are some pictures with closed engine cowling: Now it looks better than the original... Serkan
×
×
  • Create New...