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galaxyg

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Everything posted by galaxyg

  1. Small update. The windscreen is supplied with window masks for the inside and the outside to make spraying easier, and it is better to glue on the wipers now and the kill switches. The instructions say to fit the windscreen from the outside. This is actually physically impossible due to the width of the scuttle panel *and* the kit has so very clearly been engineered to enable the windscreen to slip in easily from the inside, I'm amazed the instruction writers and illustrators could get this wrong. Having been an assembly instructions illustrator for a decent part of my early career (sadly not model kits) - instructions are a lot easier than say - matched metal tooling for the kit itself. And yet here we are, Nunu and also Belkits both fail here somewhat in what should be the easiest part. The glue area is quite small however and the tolerances of the kit are so tight as to require some clamping. With the glass I feel perhaps the tolerances are *too* perfect.
  2. Sprayed the base in Tamiya Light Sand On with more PVA and the scenery material. I'll add a few tufts of this to break up the starkness of the beige. Completed car and stage. I'll likely won't get to the cleaner RFI photos until next weekend.
  3. The instructions would have everything underneath except the hubs, brakes and struts black. Seems a bit boring to me so I made the chassis silver. And here are the brakes and struts. The red is done with a magic marker. Completed chassis. The tyres are great - the moulding seam line is on the shoulder rather than right down the middle, which is just so much better. Testing out how these things go together in order to see that classis Super Touring stance. The instructions would have you put the wheels on last which is entirely wrong, they'd never fit past the arches.
  4. This will be very useful down the line, I've screenshotted both the image and the explanation of what is undercoating each red. I've tried colours before on white, grey, pink and black to make variations but it never occurred to me to put them over Gun Metal. And those two shades in particular look very nice indeed. And I have a can of Pure Metallic Red just waiting for a car... What I don't have are any more plastic spoons as the damn things are hard to find in the UK shops now, I'll have to order some online.
  5. Very tidy build and great colour choice. An Italian classic.
  6. Very nice, clean and tidy build. I will have to get this kit at some point. Aside from the wheel size which the explanation has already covered . That Tamiya Pure Metallic Red is a very very good match for Mazda Soul Red. I know this is Tamiya's intention for this colour anyway, and they have nailed it.
  7. It's another reason I've used card instead of what was supplied - it's happy to take superglue with no reaction beyond the one I want - sticking. This kit does come with mounting brackets just like the real thing for both front and rear flaps, giving a decent enough contact area. It's another nice detail in a kit which has a lot of details even if a lack of overall finesse.
  8. I'm assuming there's some kind of hole under the shallow roof vent, so electrical tape can make the appearance of that for me. This is how much play there is in the steering system - both wheels are still connected by the steering rack, despite how it looks. The front steering and suspension is the weakest part of the entire kit, both literally and figuratively. Some very nice rubber-plastic material is provided for the mud flaps, but although it's flexible it won't stay bent, and I want my mudflaps in a more action pose. So I use red card instead. The kit makes no mention of a third mid-car mudflap ahead of the rear wheels but all the photos of the real car imply strongly that there is one. I have more than enough card to go around. What I found interesting here is that once the mudflaps were attached, it visually instantly gave justification for the car's very high ride height - and I began to like that aspect of it a whole lot more. With the mudflaps the car looks much more like something built to tackle a rough environment. Meanwhile... here's why I was keen to keep the driver/codriver and the "action" mudflaps - I'm going to build a small stage scene for the car to sit within. This'll be the first time I've ever attempted some kind of reproduction of the natural world modelling, but I figure sand and rock is an easy place to begin. To add some kind of 3 dimensions to the ground, I've added some cardboard. The PVC glue is acting here as both glue and sculpting material. I am just making this up as I go along at this point. Meanwhile, the car gets some light weathering along the sides - grubby and dusty which clings to the bodywork easily as I sprayed the lower 1/4 of the car much earlier with matt varnish. I'm not going for a heavy weather - more like a km or two into the stage only. Here's the completed car (except for it's aerial) , but more WIP will come yet on the stage diorama. So many things are added here - wipers, PE bonnet and boot pins, two PE clamps to help hold the real life windscreen in place (I presume), electrical cut off switch which is moulded in two tiny parts - one for the red bit and one for the silver. Also added are the yellow tow hooks, a bit of alu foil round the back for the exhaust / bodywork protection and a host of other things to complete it.
  9. Nice. I think "Turbo" is the most 1980s word ever.
  10. Finally with heads. I've hand-drawn the Marlboro logos on the helmet fronts, didn't have any decals this small. There's a little nub of plastic on the inside of the rollcage - the kind of thing that looks like it's meant to be cut off, and the supplied PE hook for the seatbelt fits perfectly onto it. Dashboard added and the interior is complete. The body is quite an awkward fit over the chassis, but here it is. I've gone with the "from the spares box" tyres in the end, as once it was all together the Hasegawa tyres looked much too large, just like the on Hasegawa Legacy I built last year. It does not surprise me. For many reasons I'll detail in my later RFI Pros/cons review, I consider this not a very good kit. There are more things to do yet - mirror, PE, roof inlet, sump guard, mudflaps, wipers, weathering and so on - feels endless. More WIP to come yet.
  11. Very very nice, clean and great colour.
  12. I'm glad to know it arrived and is useful, it took a long time in the post!
  13. The beginnings of the driver and co-driver. Note the symmetrical race suits, orange on the outside for both. Nice. I've had to guess at the colour of the boots, could not find a reference. With added seatbelts from paper, superglued in place and the Sabelt decals are just cut from the sheet and also superglued in place. Moya installed into the car. As usual for figures, minus head to begin with. There's a slot in the rear bulkhead which is a nice touch and the paper belt slips into it nicely. The other left is left hanging in the air for now, as it'll be attached to the vertical in the rollcage later, something noted earlier in the build by @keefr22 Carlos Sainz installed in the car. I've chosen this arm configuration to make sure at least one of the hand can actually touch the wheel correctly - even with Tamiya drivers in Tamiya cars getting both hands on the wheel can be tricky. Rollcage installed. On of it's pathetically small joining points at the top came apart and so I'm holding it back in place with this tape in the hope it might re-stick where it should be. Not really seen once the car is assembled however so not the end of the world if it can't. The front lights and grille are in, and I've added too piece of reinforcement to make sure they stay there. Not much glueable area on this part and overall in terms of how you can paint and assemble this, I find it lacking. A hollow grille with mesh would have been preferable. Especially with that thin red line inside the chrome (on the outside not shown yet). Some of the many many other parts that need to be attached to the body. Spanish flag tore a little, managed to rescue it mostly into place. Kevlar is Hasegawa self-adhesive.
  14. This looks really nice, looking forward to the RFI photos.
  15. After clearcoating the body but forgetting to photograph it, I've installed the light buckets. They are chrome and have tiny mounting/glue contact points - which then need the chrome scraped off too. So I've reverted my my usual method- great blobs of PVA. Amazingly the Tamiya Acrylic black stuck to the chrome enough - and I wiped off the raised areas without getting unwanted wiped areas. Part way through the face. Rear lights painted and installed. Completed face. Should look even better once the PVA has dried clear.
  16. The more I look into the difference between the two - 1986 and 1986, the more I find a world of pain in converting it to the 1986 version, the intercooler being the least problematic part. This French language site shows someone building both 1985 and 1986 at the same time, and the conversion around the side intake holes for one thing is more filler and shaping than I'd want to try. I've found so many conflicting photos of these cars as they are bought, sold and changed over the years. Including 1985 with 1986 decals, 1985 with 1986 intercooler and one with a clear panel where the others have black in place of the back windscreen and the two side areas where the fuel filler is. https://www.lesmaquettistes.com/t4306-porsche-959-paris-dakar-1985-1986 Looks like I'll stick to the 1985 version as well. And I'll need to get some extra decals made as the number plates are the wrong font and the RECARD one is as you've said, spelt wrong. And is blue. To go on blue. If you happen to be getting your new ones printed I'd be interested in a duplicate set. One thing that has occurred to me in the past is to convert a Tamiya 959 into the Dakar kit, using the wheels, decals, front guard plate and roof lights from the Gunze kit. At least the Tamiya kit has decent detail in the engine and suspension. Seems a bit of a waste of the Gunze kit however, just stripping it for only a few parts. And looking at them placed together tonight, I'm not sure the Gunze decals for the Rothmans stripes would even fit as the Tamiya kit is about 5mm longer in the area between the front and rear wheel arches. I suppose I could always try masking the Rothmans stripes on it.. The Tamiya kit already has no sill in the rear window to be painfully cut out, instead it's part of the glass and could be sanded off. It's headlights are better too, and so is the rear grille. But it's ride height is all wrong so something would need to be done there and something radical as well. Hmm. Decisions. Probably either is as much work as the other.
  17. With a brush I've retouched the orange area around the right hand side rear door handle and it looks tidier now, unless you point a camera at it. All of the decals are done, as are all of the window surrounds. It all looks more scruffy in the photos than real life, but at the same time if I had to describe this kit in one word, that word would be "scruffy". Especially the mouldings and definition around the windows.
  18. This fact is proof the new points system is garbage. Nice win for Lappi though.
  19. This is looking very nice. Cameras are a indeed cruel item during a WIP, the reality of the eye is always so much better. For any perfectly flat chrome areas I can recommend Hasegawa's self-adhesive chrome sticky sheets, they don't tear and you can reposition many times, unlike BMF which feels like a commitment. They're pricey but worth it.
  20. What a nuisance to find the windows don't fit. You'd expect better. At least they look like something that wasn't a total scribing pain to remove. It bothers me that both lower case "i"s in "Daily Mirror" both lack a dot above the i. It is accurate however, so I blame that on the Daily Mirror's designers.
  21. I've been wanting to see one of these built up for a while. I notice that unusually for Revell, it's curbside. I guess there is no engine of course with it being an EV but there must be something under that long bonnet and I do wonder who will be first to make a 1/24 battery pack. I would guess this is the first kit of an EV. It had crossed my mind to get one of these and then drop in a Corvette engine or something, if it'd fit, and then chuck on some more sporty alloys. The grey is exactly the kind of shade that so many purchasers of modern cars are choosing. Looking good so far. Nice use of primer for the leather seats
  22. All of the above are reasons I've not started mine yet - and you've found far more detail inconsistencies than I'd noticed so far. There's just so much correction work to be done if you want it accurate. I will build mine as the 1986 version, and for that one the steering wheel is entirely inaccurate. Great to see your build, it's coming on really nicely.
  23. Following the suggestion of @keefr22 I have clearcoated the edges of the mask - and in fact the entire area, as the only clear I have is in spray form. Then a coat of primer and 3 coats of TS-53 which is annoying thin on the sharp edges of the wheel arch blisters. I think the Revell colour suggested by @Spiny is probably a better match however a) I don't have any b) I didn't find any in sprac can form and most important c) I don't want to mix paint brands on top of each other, lest I gets some kind of unwanted reaction. Since I have so much masking tape on the model, I might as well do the black window frames as well. At least on the sides. The front and rear I'll do with a pen/brush. The ugliest point in the procedure but hopefully the chrysalis from which a butterfly will emerge. And here it is. Some blue and some black has bled into the rear door handle on this side only and the black edges all-round need tidying with a pen, but on the whole it's come out pretty well. As is often the case, the photos can be a bit more brutal compared to the reality.
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