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galaxyg

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Everything posted by galaxyg

  1. Mr Muscle spray-on oven cleaner will probably do the job - test on a bit of sprue first. This is what I use - takes about 20 minutes. Use the same precautions you'd use when cleaning your oven.
  2. Great looking build. I wonder how this compares to Tamiya's kit of the same/similar.
  3. Nice clean build in a great colour. Enjoyed the WIP also.
  4. Now I have the clearcoat down on the body & decals, I can handle it confidently. The manky looking mess where the dashboard meets the bonnet is mainly a collection of residue from tape and polish, and will be both cleaned and hidden under the windscreen later. Rear wing. I'm glad I used paint and not decals. Photos of some versions of the real car suggest there are Castrol decals on both sides of the thinner wing, though none are included in the kit.
  5. Thanks. Those on the backing paper are no problem, they're where the wheel covers used to be, so are no longer needed.
  6. The side decals. The main body decals all complete. They're a little scruffy in a few parts but on the whole, pretty good. And it's a good looking livery.
  7. I didn't know of such a product! Always something new to learn, thanks. I'm sure it'll be useful later as this is not the only "old decals" kit I own. Photos later but I've actually got all the other large decals laid down on the Jag's body now, and they went without a struggle. Even with me having to hack some of them around to account for the wheel covers my car no longer has.
  8. I wasn't but thanks for that. If the rest of them get worse I have a fallback at least! Since there more than half done now I'll see what happens with the remainer - nothing to lose now.
  9. I've polished up the Tamiya Pure White body ahead of putting the decals, giving these old decals the best chance of adhesion to smooth surface. Not an especially encouraging start. It gets somewhat better however. This is as smooth as it goes. My paint is smooth, the decals - just old. Not great. However a macro photo makes everything look bad. More The big one piece bonnet decal was especially annoying, but at least it stayed in one piece, albeit with a tear at the V. More. This side decal decided it wanted to both be positioned incorrectly and self destruct if moved/touched. Grrr. Fortunately, Tamiya Imperial Japanese Navy Green (the same as a Mitsubishi Zero) is a reasonably close match, and later there will be another sponsor decal to cover part of this mess. That's enough decalling for one evening, this is not a car to be done all at once. The decals really don't like being touched once they're on the car.
  10. Hasegawa's suggested solution for the rear wing is three giant decals. I don't really like the sound of this, so I am going to paint mine. Putting these colours over a base of black primer seems to give a pretty close match to the decals. Fortunately I noticed on a reference photo before I got the black out... the last (masked) part of the upper rear wing is white. Better I paint this now and then mask it off than risk getting black or grey on my white decalled body. In photos it's a charcoal grey but I don't have one of those, so this will make a better contrast than just plain black. This post is a giant pain. I had thought to paint the parts first, and I'm glad I did not. It'd have just made a mess when it came to gluing it. I had to resort to taping it to the rear wing using that as a jig to hold it all in place. Small contact points and easily "collapsible" until dry. And it's so worth dry fitting it all as there's several ways this wing-post could end up such are the lack of guides. Many of those ways would result in the wing being tilted backwards. You can also see the assembled exhaust here, which is part painted but not complete. Reference photos show the exhaust as symmetrical. The reality of the kit has one side higher than the other.
  11. Normally I don't paint the inside of a car body but in the case of group C cars, I guess I'll regret it if I don't. I'll touch it up later but to begin with, the spray can can do the heavy lifting here. And now roughly masked up the black interior so it doesn't pick up too much white from the outside. Although at least black on white is easier to touch up! The rear wing has some quite awful sink marks which I've filled - they're caused by the wing mounting recesses underneath. Also in the sunlight you can see the swirls where the molten plastic has injected in from the sprue. The wheels bolts have no holes in the middle, and the brakes have no calipers. Two things I'll have to solve later. Masking off for the green front lip. And here is said lip. The radiator has two tow hooks and you remove one depending on which car number you're building. Or in this case, remove both and replace with PE as the plastic ones look quite clumsy. Completed front.
  12. Hate to see a model go to waste so I do like to see restorations, and this is a good one.
  13. Great build and livery. What shade is that green?
  14. Just the road car for now but based on their recent form (The Supra, the RX-7, the Corolla and the Bluebird come to mind amongst others), a motorsport version won't be far behind.
  15. I saw this new kit as well, and I wonder how long before they also release the rally version of the same. I agree, Hasegawa really are on a roll. A few years ago I regarded them as a manufacturer that dabbled in cars in the past, and now they're going all-in and I am very grateful that they are. Especially since they're hitting that sweet spot of 80s and 90s JDM. They're (along with Beemax and Belkits) also filling a Rally car niche that Tamiya seem to have long abandoned. I passed my test in a Nissan Sunny, and about 50% of my driving lessons were taken in the same. Really nice gearbox, aside from when I kept crunching it.
  16. I'm certainly going to try. Yes, I'd read so whilst researching the car. Amazing it could make so much difference. On with the build.. wheel arch cut out. This small hole on the side is a moulded line on the kit and the kit has no smaller hole forward of it. But my drill soon corrected those. There are 2 left side panels and two right, of varying types. This kit has all the parts for several variants of this car, not just the Castrol IMSA one. The side panels have pathetically small contact areas however so I've had to reinforce. The rear light panels are also seperate. And a kind-of blanking panel for one side of the fuel filler. I guess an IMSA special too.
  17. The cars do have air suspension and the Aoshima Liberty Walk Hurracan kit has this adjustable. I presume the real vehicle is the same - everyone displays it on the ground, then pumps it up and drives away. Otherwise you have a £250,000 Ferrari that drives like crap.
  18. Thanks for the comments on my build. Quoting from their website "Liberty Walk was established by Wataru Kato when he was 26 years old. The business was first operated in a small vehicle lot where they could only exhibit 3 cars. Liberty Walk has evolved throughout its history into one of the biggest names in automotive tuning. Put simply, there is no other brand out there being quite so brave, or seemingly capturing the current tuning zeitgeist as this brand." "brave" meaning I guess.. having the balls to take a beautifully styled (not to mention expensive) car and grind bits of it off and whack on some giant overfenders and weird stickers (and I'm sure some actual legit tuning and I know for one thing, air suspension), ruining it to many. Personally I don't care for it, but within reason (i.e my own GT-R above) it can be made to look good. It just usually isn't. As below.
  19. Background: Normally I'd not be into the Liberty Walk extreme overfender, slammed and stanced look, but my wife had suggested I get this kit as she thought it looked cool. It seemed like a good invitation to try something I'd normally overlook - although I had my reservations if I'd like it based on the box art. It spent a few years in the stash until I got some colour inspiration - Tamiya Candy Lime Green. Pros: Mostly easy to assemble and entirely great fitment with good proportions. Cleanly moulded with little cleanup necessary. Choice of left or right hand drive. Original GT-R suspension parts also included. All main Liberty Walk decals are printed in both black and white so you can paint the car whatever colour you wish. Cons: No engine, despite Aoshima offering the engine sprue in other versions of their GT-R. Some grinding away of original wheel arches necessary (and detailed in the instructions) which might put off the nervous. Rear diffuser and aero parts don't have much in the way of positive mounting points. Some of the instructions are in an order no experienced modeller would follow. Overfenders on last? I don't think so. Some experience needed to deviate from the instructions to get a better result/easier build. Verdict: It's a great kit. Not for beginners, but otherwise very very good. Build notes: Because the kit also includes the non-Liberty-Walk suspension parts, I was able to use those instead, making the car's stance look normal. I also swapped the stretched/pulled tyres for some normal ones and painted the black wheels silver. All this greatly improves the look of the car (for my taste) - and I have come to really love the result instead of my fear that it might just look a bit silly. Other additions to the kit are the Hobby Design Photo Etch kit, some seatbelt retainers, the rear number plate and a small amount of carbon fibre decal. I've also intentionally omitted some of the less desirable Liberty Walk decals. Painted in Tamiya TS-52 Candy Lime Green and clearcoated with Tamiya TS-13 Gloss. Quite possibly the best set of photos I've taken of any build. Built over the space of 12 days.
  20. I picked this up 2 years ago, I've always thought it a great looking car. Not keen on those wheel covers though, they'll be coming off. Make it look like a hovercraft or a roomba or something. I know Tamiya's kit is vastly superior to the rather basic Hasegawa one, but the Castrol livery looks just as good as the Silk Cut one to me, and at least isn't about ciggies. Basic chassis with stub axles. So the car has run without in some capacity the covers as shown in this photo on the instruction sheet. And looks a lot better for it, to me. Some moulding lines to be removed too. Luckily there's a ridge on the inside to scribe up against, better than attacking the outside.
  21. Looking good and great interior, especially.
  22. This is really nice and great photography too.
  23. As this kit is derived from the standard GT-R there's no positive mounting points for the rear splitter, so only the brute force of a big blob of PVC is able to make it stick. Crude but not seen once the splitter is in place. A bit of Humbrol Baltic blue for the exhaust tips. Rear number plate and after looking at endless images of the GT-R's rear end, I've added a small black bit of plastic to the side of the number plate to represent the reversing camera. With just the bonnet, door mirrors and decals left, this'll be the last image in this WIP. I'll be using some of the liberty walk decals but certainly not all. No rising suns or John Lennon lyrics right across the middle of the door for my version. It is nice that all the decals come in both black and white giving total choice over body colour. If anyone's building this kit (or any other flavour of Aoshima GT-R sans engine), it's worth leaving the bonnet off until the end as it makes it easier to get the body shell on and off the chassis.
  24. This is going to be interesting. I am certainly going to be following along.
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