AnonymousAA74

Nice review. Much of this release is a scaled down, albeit simplified, version of the 1:32 kit, which is absolutely fantastic! I don't usually build this scale, but I'm afraid I WILL be building this one

Looks a great kit! Now BUILD!

GORGEOUS! I wish more people would model the Dornier!

I'm real sorry I missed this Mike. What a great plane and what an amazing finish!!!! Kudos.

I don't see anything wrong with that. Can I send you my figs in future?!!

Average! If you are serious about this set, then PM me with your email addy for some reference material which you WILL need.

....and your pictures are where Iain?

Bloody amazing! Now this is SCRATCH work!!

Ok, here are some cockpit pics. You'll notice a little white dust in there from my sanding, and no matter how much tape you use, it always gets in! I stress this isn't complete yet as there are more belts to add, and a few other details such as guns with feeds and chutes etc, plus that turret. Everything done in Gunze, apart from Vallejo for small detail. Micro Crystal Clear for instrument lenses too. I have found this difficult to paint properly due to the awkwardness of the depth etc of the resin nose.

Albion Alloys do one. HERE is a review link.

Fathomed out the last bit. It's an MG 81Z twin mount....sorry!

What a great build!

The base detail of the cockpit is excellent, and the etch is really very good, so in I went to tackle the 'office'. I've spent about 7 days on this in total. There are a couple of aspects which I'm not too clear on with the instructions, so I've sent the Good Pastor an email. These are mostly to do with the turret. I think you really need some serious Ju 188 reference to do this set justice. There are some parts which have taken me an age to fathom their location and orientation, but thanks to Thomas (Wurzacher), I managed to more or less 'nail them'. Some parts aren't glues into place yet, such as all the seats, and the radio set, plus the control column and forward ammo box/feed. Here are some pics. ... .... ..... ...... ....... Now if anyone can tell me what THIS is, I'll be appreciative!!

Lovely work there Mike. I wish there was a 1/32 one!

Sorry for any lack of update. Serious illness in the family, plus the nature of all that riveting have kept me from publishing anything worthwhile here. Ok, I can now say that all the flush riveting is now COMPLETE! I reckon this took about 30 hours in total, and resulted in the rivet tool slipping a few times, gouging the model and ending up in my fingers. All riveting done with the MDC tool. I've also had to add new panel lines on the fuselage where Revell omitted them. Lines were also re-scribed on the resin if I felt they were a little soft. The angled gap between the new cockpit and the wing-root is now filled with Magic Sculp, and the sprayed areas you see were to make sure that joints were invisible, or as much as I could get them! Gap fixed! Next stop is to work on the cockpit. I'll post more when I have something decent to show

Some people have all the fun

Ah, what memories of the 80's Nice job there

I use a little fuse wire that comes on those 'cards' from the corner shop. Contacta is great when you need proper gunky sticking power.

That's a corking looking Dora, and the fact it's brush painted makes it even better. Excellent!

That's not strictly correct. Having worked in the chemical industry for years, I know that superglue doesn't 'melt' the surface of plastic, but instead reacts with moisture local to the joint and then chemically activates, but NOT changing the product it's being used to glue. I have got 'superglue finger' all over expensive resin conversions and over plastic before now, but add some Loctite Gel to it, and leave it for 15 minutes, and it's gone.....no burn into the plastic at all. You've more chance of causing surface damage with plastic cement.

I glue fuselage halves using super glue gel. This stuff does allow some repositioning, making it easier, and when fully set (I activate using a spray), I sand the seam immediately using a course sanding stick. I then just use progressively use finer grades of sandingstick and sanding sponges until everything is smooth. The scriber then comes out to replace any lost detail.

It's more a testament to Magic Sculp than anything else. Bloody great stuff!

After a two applications of Magic Sculp, some careful sanding, Alclad priming, re-sanding, re-priming and scribing etc, the ailerons are practically done, apart from the obligatory riveting, of course I'm happy with them, so it's all systems go!

That Mike is darn nice! You made a great job of a great kit. You should be really proud of that

There are European distributors. Check HERE