AnonymousAA74

I use it. It's the dogs danglies, but don't get it anywhere near your plastic parts

Hi all, When I've tried airbrushing concave parts, such as the internal parts on the rear of the Fw190D fuselage, I notice that the primer is quite rough. Unlike spraying external areas, a load of paint dust can be kicked up, depsite lowering pressure and paint flow, and this seems to make the job a little rough in those areas. Sometimes it's not always easy to access to rub down either. I had the same issue when airbrusing the wide chord wing roots of my 1/48 Spitfires too. Any ideas how to get a smooth finish when I do these internal areas? Cheers, Jim

How you scratch the paint off to reveal the Alclad? I have an Alclad covered Me262 which I'm going to finish so it shows chips. I was thinking of salt weathering or something as it's 1/32 scale. Would I need to protect the alclad with Klear first before painting over? Nice work on the Messerspit. Now I want one

I've built 2 of the Academy kits and they are a nice build. Some will argue their exact shape, but I love them. Try this: LINKY and this: LINKY LINK LINK

Mike, I've found genuine tin foil works great too (not that crap for using with food). It's real thin and cuts beautifully with a craft knife ( a bit like the wine bottle foil stuff). Check your postmans sack in a couple of days (oooo, errrr) Jim

Nice airbrushing. You done this before?

Mike, I work in science.....bung your addy via PM and I'll sort you on Monday Jim

That's only a couple of miles from me! I'm off there to get some today! Thanks for the heads up

Thanks Mike, I'll take you up on that offer I couldn't get the cockpit to sit any lower at all without stressing the plastic. I did toy with the idea of slimming down the plastic inside the canopy hood but it was already tapered at the lower end and it would probably have screwed up the part. Thanks for the comments guys. Now I've been bullied into starting my Eduard F.22/24 now for the ARC GB. I'll post some progress pics up in here. Cheers, Jim

Hi all, This is the lastest model from the bench. It's also my first proper foray into resin modification as I used the KMC resin update set which meant removing the upper cowl of the kit and replacing with resin. The prop, radiators, cockpit, exhausts and spinner etc etc are resin. The model is mostly airbrushed in Tamiya acrylics, with the interior green in Humbrol 78. Detail work is done in Vallejo acrylics. Treat me gently, this is the 2nd aircraft in 2 decades from me I know she's not perfect, but this is a learning curve....besides knowing NOTHING about British machines!

Taking no chances....just bought myself a load of bottles!

Simply 'beautiful'. What paints and other finishing stuff do you use? Are those u/c legs in Alclad? Do you have in shots of it being built? So many questions. Bloody great! I'd be well pleased with that Jim

Great work and an authentic finish. Have you in 'in-build' pics? Did you use any AM stuff? Jim

If that's the genuine article and working fine, then it's a BARGAIN! I have one of these I bought for £250, and they still retail at around £220 to £230. Bloody great compressor...I love it!

Where do you buy the stuff in the UK? I can only find the scriber. Jim

Well, here she is...finally finished. This model has been one long experiment from start to finish for me as I've encountered loads of techniques I've never done before and had to learn. Sometimes it worked, sometimes it failed, but I'm pleased with the result. Apart from the fact I couldn't source the centre line and wing bomb racks I needed, as well as the rocket points, this is now a Spitfire FR Mk.XVIII. 60 Sqn, Malaya, December 1950. This machine was flown by Sqn. Ldr. WG Duncan Smith. The model has an Eduard cockpit, etch landing flaps and a KMC resin wide chord rudder and exhausts. Priming was done with Alclad2 grey primer, and I did some heavy preshading with Tamiya matt black, taking the nozzle of the end of my Iwata to get some fairly fine lines in too. So far so good...........but... ......It won't take long to notice I've dropped the ball here though. I bought the Tamiya grey paints for the upper and lower surfaces and stupidly enough, thinking that the darker colour lid would be the upper surfaces colour, I started to happily spray. This being the first aircraft I've really done in almost 20yrs, I was pretty pleased with the way the pre-shading worked, and I used white tack sausages for the camo, but I noticed the grey is deeper on the undersides. I've tried to give the green a slight distemper look to show a little fading too. Never mind, this is a fun build where I'm learning a lot, and I didn't have the heart to strip it back with all the fine photo etch detail I've stuck on it. I'm sure Thom will agree with that!! The fuselage tail band and the bee stripes were sprayed on first with a white base coat for the stripes. The tail band is white anyway. I used Klear to seal the bands/masking in between spraying the yellow and black to stop colour bleed. I'm pleased with how uniform it came out, and it was no mean feat to mask with those compound curves. I don't think the decal would have been any good for that. I finished this model off by giving the whole model several coats of Klear, then using the Promodeller Dark Dirt wash. After the wash, paint chiping was applied with Humbrol Aluminium enamel paint, and the whole lot given another coat of Klear, and then various washes and pigment. The camo was faded using Tamiya weathering pastels before being given a final coat of Xtracolor flat varnish to finish, then final assembly. My first airplane since 1992. I hope you like it. It's not perfect, but I like it, very much enjoyed building it, and I learnt a lot from doing it. Jim

Hi all, I'm at that stage on my Spitfire now where I need to think about weathering and stuff, but as this is the first aircraft to completion in almost 20yrs, I'd like to know how you guys do those marvellously realisitc streaks and stains you see on aircraft, and what you use for doing them. I'm a total newbie with this but have a reasonable modelling aptitude, so can you guys/gals proffer any advice? Cheers, Jim

Cheers guys, thanks for the advice.....off I go a decaling Jim

Hi all, I'm just about to decal my 1/48 Spitfire and there are masses of decals. The question is how would I deal with so many decals when using Micro Set and Sol? Would I decal them all initially using Set, then swab them with Sol at the end so it won't take days to do? Any tips for a newbie with these solutions also welcomed Cheers, Jim

I use a flat Xtracolor varnish XDFF over Klear with no woried, so I imagine their satin would be as good.

Bloody hell, that's superb! What paints are you using? How do you get those panel edge effects? What varnish do you use? Satin? So many questions. The best one of these I've seen so far....makes me itch to start building mine

You've done a real fine job there. I'd be pleased if I'd airbrushed and pre-shaded like that. A real nice job! I may try some of that primer too. Jim

Cheers! Jim

Hi all, Even though I'm finally mastering the reight pressure for me to spray stuff at (Klear etc), I still can't fathom which pressure reading on my Iwata Smart Jet Pro compressor is the correct one: Is the 'at rest' pressure the correct one to guage things by, or the 'in use' pressure, as the former rapidly drops off when you start to actually spray. I'm sort of trying to hit a halfway house between the two, but it's about time I asked some bloody questions! Cheers, Jim

MANY thanks Tony. You are a saviour All the best Jim PS, any chance of some diagrams of the undercarriage too?