AnonymousAA74

LOVELY job! Which mag?

Bloody gorgeous, and YES, it annoys me. I want one and I want to do it as well as yours!!! Lovely work

I promise to post some pics up tomorrow. The fuselage is closed up and the cockpit complete. A bit more etch is added, including that awesome landing skid. Got to say I have loved building this kit. It still holds up well after 30+ years, and I hope I'm doing a better job than I did when I built it back 25yrs ago....

Whoops! I'm using the Eduard set for it. The moulded pit is pretty basic, so all detail is just carved and sanded away and replaced. The Eduard stuff for this is superb. I've also added lead wire for cables and made some parts from scratch. Still got to say the cockpit looks far better to the eye than it does on these photos. I'll get a good natural light shot tomorrow like I did with the Fw190D Thanks for the comments guys

Ay up, Sorry for the distinct lack of photos and the fact that they are crap. All my indoor pics are crap, so when I get a proper pic of the pit tomorrow in good light, everything will look far subtler than it does here. I can't believe how UNLIKE my model these pics are, but here goes: I have done extra work on the pit after seeing some flaws that these pics brought up. The scratched off area on the side wall is where the metal bends round and is glued to the cockpit tub, so it is curved. .........I'm off for a game of Call of Duty...

Beautiful work Peter, but I've come to expect nothing less from you. The paint job looks wonderfully subtle with the weathering. I think you've swayed me into this one. The toolbox is a nice touch too. Where did you get it? Jim

Dang you! You beat me to it. This is my next build in a couple of weeks, and I want to do this in the 'Spanish style'. Yours is looking great. Can't wait to see it progress Jim

If you are going to solder any Eduard stuff, use some fine wet 'n dry and remove that coating back to the bare brass. I use a soldering iron with a micro tip, and Frys Flux Paste which is amazing. I used to work in electronics and you can do some seriously fine soldering with those 2 items. My iron is medium wattage....not too low. I sometimes use a pair of bull nose pliers to hold parts together until I get get a good solid joint. As the heat is very localised, any sinkage with the pliers is minimal. Hope that helps.

It is a lot of money for a model, but I suppose it's like spreading the payment over a longer term. I imagine for some, it will ease the pain of laying out all at once. I used to design and work in wood, and if you can get the thing built properly, they look amazing. But you could lay out for an aibrush and compressor and still buy several kits with the spare change, plus the airbrush will leave a legacy for your hobby.

I think mine was the Airfix 1/72 Fw190D which came in the plastic bag with the card hanger. Long since gone, but not forgotten.

That's beautiful Peter. I don't have the courage to touch a winter scheme yet, and you've done pretty damn well here.

Nice work Peter, You know I'm a sucker for a D9 Did you get my email?

Is it the same viscosity as Klear? Does it airbrush?

This little baby should be arriving tomorrow. Certainly esoteric, and not overly common:

I'm going to pull of out this build as this kit is awful and requires deication and extreme attention to detail to make it viable. It certainly isn't inspiring me at the moment, so I'm off to build an Me 163 Komet! If anyone here thinks that will be worth posting up, then I'll do it.

Oooooh la la! Wonderful work! Neat plane and the Kubel looks fantastic with its dirtied windscreen

You're FAR too organised for me Bob. Liquid Reamer and Iwata silicone grease are all I do, at haphazard intervals

This is gonna be unusual; a build with absolutely ZERO aftermarket stuff. I had high hopes for this bird, especially having 2 other Roden kits, and the reputation Roden have acquired. I have to say my first impressions aren't good. I have found the kit to be covered in flash; parts misaligned when moulded, and the detail very soft in lots of cases. Locating pins and holes are so misformed or shallow as to be of no use. This going to be a real FUN build First up, the obligatory box and bits shots: Here's a pic of a sprue of parts, and Rodens little joke to it's buyers...those wonderfully pronounced ejector pin marks which leave both a mix of extra plastic and recesses, in the most awkward of places. Just look at the size of those rigging wires too. Filligree this is NOT! I think this is is worst moulded kit I have seen since I returned to the hobby.... I did some serious cleaning up of the nacelle parts, and I have also had to run the nacelle halves (the joins) over a piece of wet 'n day paper to even up the joining faces, as these too were dire. Notice I have also opened up the holes on the rear nacelle, over the fuel tanks where the cabane struts later attach. I can't understand why Roden moulded these with no opening. I now have to work a way of wrinking the external canvas too. The pics I have of the DH-2 show the canvas to be everything from taught to wrinkled to hell and back. I think a few wrinkles will add character. Extra detaling will be added to the interior, such as cabling, and the new cross brace wires. The padded area behind the pilots head is aldo badly moulded, and I'll replace this with 2 part epoxy putty. The horribly moulded bucket seat will be replaced with a handmade wicker one. Never tried it before, so that will be fun. ......lets see if we can make a silk purse from a sows ear Jim

Also, if you aren't getting a flat coat, experiment with the distance you are brushing from, and possibly leave a few seconds between passes of the airbrush, or alternate a paint coat with a pure air coat so you don't wet the surface too much. Try to use brushing just air as a main tool in applying coats. I've learnt it works for me.

I love the Ju 52. That is pretty damn nice

I just thin Tamiya with X20A thinners around 50:50 and experience no problems. I spray at about 15PSI also. You are right though, Tamiya are s***e for brush painting, unless you want to use it as a wash paint, like doing the yellow electric cables on Luftwaffe subjects. I use enamel and Vallejo/Gunbze acrylic for brush detailing.

FANTASTIC!!!! That pit looks amazing, especially with that new IP!

Nice 109 Peter. The shading looks real good. Why have I not built a 109 yet? Is this 'out of box'? How did you do your spinner paintjob? Lovely work

That's a beautiful Storch Peter. One of my German favourites. The undercarriage struts look very good too. I have some Storch pics from Cosford if you want them, taken yesterday.

Try PVA white glue, or balsa cement. That always does the trick for me.