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Everything posted by GazB

  1. Thanks Harry, Ray, Bonhoff. And lol, I've had that issue before with parts getting knocked off, only mine tried to cover it up Gaz
  2. Thanks, Chris, ckw, Colin Yeah, wish the display cases weren't so expensive. But I'll have a go with a brush to see what I can take off. Gaz
  3. So something I've noticed a lot is when I put models aside, they're frequently getting coated with a layer of dust that seems to be impossible to remove. Short of buying one of those £20 Tamiya anti-static brushes (if they come back into stock), is there any other way to remove dust without potentially flicking parts off? I've tried dabbing with blu-tak, makeup brushes, even a keyboard cleaning brush. Nothing seems to truly clean it off Any help would be appreciated Gaz
  4. Thanks, Riley, ralph, Homer ^-^/ Gaz
  5. Hi all. Another submission of a project I finished off a while ago, and had on the go for a loooong time before completing it. 1/35 scale Tamiya M1046 TOW Humvee, dressed up as an abandoned vehicle from the late 90s and inspired by the setting of the original Command and Conquer videogame Thanks for looking ^-^ Gaz
  6. Thanks, ralph ^-^/ Gaz
  7. Been a while since I posted here, hah. Completed this a little while ago (and it unfortunately accumulated a little bit of dust). Built OOB with a bit of additional wiring detail on the exhaust, some reflective film from an AFVClub tank periscope set, and some aftermarket decals and masking. Base used some Brengun tie down PE. Thanks for looking, Gaz
  8. I just received the Meng T-72B1 today, and thought I'd start with the tracks on account of the supplied jig. Thought it'd be an easy experience. Speedy-ish, but my word the system really doesn't work. The instructions failed to explain there are two types of track links, one with holes on the left, one with holes on the right. Since these are indistinguishable from a glance, they were accidentally mixed and matched. But even when the same parts were connected, the little bolt on the opposing side was often missing, so nothing clipped together. The pins weren't long enough (same problem on the Miniart workable tracks) and kept falling out. The idea is pretty sound, but I don't know why they didn't either supply a system where pins go into either side of the tracks (saw that on the T-10 kit), or simply supply longer pins that nearly reach the other side. Sort of wished I had one of those Tamiya mini electric drills so I could bore the holes out and just fit wire in. I 'assembled' them, but they're held with vinyl tape at present. Roadwheels will need to be put in place so I can lay them over and glue them into the shape. They really need to test these designs a bit more. Gaz
  9. Thought I'd throw my hat in the ring. Having just gotten a Miniart T-55A Mod. 1981, I'd say get a Takom. My reasoning is...the Miniart build has been a frustrating chore I get they go for detailed builds (its the non-interior variant), but a lot of it is unnecessarily complicated. Multi-part construction for things that could be one or two pieces. Part fit wavers from okay to bad. Locating pins are so shallow they might not exist, and there's significant gaps between components. In about 5 days of work I've only got the hull partially built. The suspension arms don't function as advertised (with the working torsion), and the wheels are never going to just plug into them as described. I had to drill out the suspension arms and fit styrene rods to give the wheels something to actually affix to. The idler wheel position has no guidance. The track pins are too short, so too much movement causes shearing. One part wasn't labelled at all, and another doesn't exist in the kit (some kind of tubular part to attach the hatch peg into), nor does the Cb sprue the instructions refer to. The kit is very detailed, but far too much of is almost 'place this roughly in this spot' and hope for the best. I was disappointed because I liked Miniart for their figure sets, even if one of their accessory sets maybe gave me a bit of forewarning. I will say their parts allocation leaves a lot to be desired, with multiple sprues and a very strange coding convention often needed for constructing one part. I've actually, just yesterday, decided to hiatus the Miniart one. Pack it up, and have it as a Christmas present. In exchange, I'm getting a Takom one. I was tempted by Tamiya's offering, simply for build ease and fit, but that kit isn't anywhere near as detailed unfortunately. Its a real shame because I was looking forward to finally building a T-55 after years of thinking about it. My experience with Takom kits is, more of a challenge, but a nice end result. I had somewhat dreaded building up their 1/72 Object 279s, but they were surprisingly stress free builds. Anyway, that's just my two cents. Miniart has a lot more variants, but the fit definitely leaves something to be desired on the particular one I got. Hope this proves useful. Update: The Takom kit has been fully built, along with a crew, in less time than it took me to build up the wheels and lower hull on the Miniart kit O_O Gaz
  10. Just over 4 years later I decided to revisit this model and give it a repaint. A remaster of sorts, since that's an in thing these days Applied some of the techniques I've learned, and this was almost entirely airbrushed. Originally it was sprayed with cans. Given that Tamiya rattle can colours aren't always in pot form, I had to improvise a bit for the colours. Luckily I had a MiG Ammo USN aircraft colour set that included a light grey perfect for the forward section. The blue tone was easy enough to mix up, and Tamiya yellow was spot on for the appropriate parts. The rest was shot over with Medium Grey. Give it a wash, though had to be careful. I swapped the base for that of the unused X-wing one, and was going to link the three together when the enamel wash ate into the connectors and caused them to snap. Whole thing nearly went on the floor Anywho without further ado, here's the finished article. Nifty thing about the Bandai kits is being able to more or less take them apart again to ease the repaint. Gaz
  11. I will note, oddly, that both Tamiya and RC paint have this occasional tendency to go from being matt to satin. I painted one model truck in the same colour, and it came out dead flat. I painted two others with the same bottle and it came out satin Oo Gaz
  12. Apologies for the delayed response. Didn't receive the notifications like I set it to >< I have managed to crack the problem, for the most part. As an experiment I got two bottles of the same colour, then topped one up with thinner. The thinner I use for RC is the RC thinner, so its the correct one. I still use a pipette, however I now have a cup with a small amount of RC thinner in the bottom, which helps flush the pipette (water just gummed the stuff up). The paint sprays fairly well from my 0.4mm, and did start to spray okay from the 0.2mm (however the crown cap seems inherently prone to a gummy build up of not only RC but also Tamiya paint and is a pain to clean off while working). As far as I can tell, RC requires enough thinner to almost top the bottle, and then maybe a few more drops in the cup. Once the level drops, it can be topped a little again and that basically thins the bottle sufficiently for airbrushing. I've done this with Tamiya for the past few years and have had no problems. Same with Gunze Sangyo using Ultimate's Thinner. No issues, and also increases the amount of available paint in the jar. I've tried to transfer paint with a brush before, but it seems rather inefficient and takes ages to transfer enough over. Also thinning in the bottle ensures I always have the same mixture going into my cup Thanks for the input Duncan, Colin, bmw and Steve Gaz
  13. Hmm, I'll see f I can give it a check Okie doke, will do. Thanks for the pointers, guys Gaz Hmm, I'll see f I can give it a check Okie doke, will do. Thanks for the pointers, guys Update: I've discovered a few issues. In the new 0.2mm airbrush, the paint is either drying or collecting on the needle tip or crown cap almost immediately. The paint also seems to be thickening as its sitting in the cup. So the stuff at the top of the amount is denser than that at the bottom. Also had the problem of flushing the RC paint pipette with water instantly (and I mean instantly) solidifying it, clogging the pipette. Had to use a brush to transfer it in the end, which is a pain. Also had to put more drops of thinner in, with varied results. In the dunkelgelb colour I'm spraying, it worked fairly well. But when I put these extra drops into a brown colour, sworked well and then speckling. In the end I switched back to my 0.4mm single action airbrush and more or less managed to go over all of the colours without issue. In fact in this instance, the Tamiya NATO Black I was using was causing more problems, and oddly drying with a satin sheen O_O One of the RC colours did that recently as well. Dead flat on one pieces, satin on another. Its extremely confusing to say the least the lack of consistency. I still don't get how anyone is supposed to prevent tip drying when the paint is probably thinner than it should be. Gaz
  14. I only had to add two more drops for it to start getting thin enough to start pooling, and then there's the problem of the paint within the airbrush then being a different consistency prone to changing in the middle of a spray. But even when thinned, it still had a speckled overspray, even close up. There was also the bizarre case of the test shots on my turntable surface seeming fine, but as soon as I raised the airbrush up to paint the model, paint refused to exit despite holding it at the same angle. It took a lot of work to get it moving
  15. Yep. There was a bit left following a clean up and it sprayed fine. Gaz
  16. Hi dnl42, I always top up my Tamiya and Gunze bottles with thinner upon opening. It thins both of them nicely for airbrushing, with exception of something like white and keeps the consistency even for the whole jar.. However with the Real Color paint the process has only really worked well on one bottle as it would with Tamiya/Gunze in another bottle the results were passable, but in another, it ended up in either speckling or flooding, both of which rendered my attempts at a tight, clean camouflage pattern moot. There seems to be consistency differences. I should also note one of the same colours oddly gave a matt finish at one point and a satin on another, both sprayed over an XF-1 base. When I tried thinning by applying it to the cup and mixing it, again the results were inconsistent, in large part due to the plant's tendency to stick to the pipette. Gaz
  17. Hi, Ratch. I have a three mode mini compressor. I use it on the lowest setting but can't tailor it specifically I'm afraid. Gaz
  18. Hi all. So I got a new airbrush, a relatively cheap 0.2mm one from Scalemodelshop. I wanted to use it to apply the camouflage to a 1/72 tank. However, despite having somewhat cracked a thinning ratio for Real Color paint (basically top up the bottle with thinner), it seems some of their colours still aren't thin enough. When I tried to spray, it speckled like crazy, almost like Tamiya White normally does. But when I thinned further, it retained the speckling but was more prone to flooding. I tried adjusting the screw like I used to on another airbrush to apply some post shading or highlighting with Tamiya colours, but I can't seem to get the knack for it. I really wonder how people do those crazy thin lines on the German aircraft night camo. No matter which why I approach the paint, its either too thick or too thin. No apparent middle ground. I still wasn't able to find the exact required thinning ratio of Real Color either, other than a suggestion of 2:1 paint to thinner. Any pointers would be appreciated. I keep looking forward to painting, but its starting to get laborious at times Gaz
  19. Ah so its not going to be a perfect fit. Hmm. Perhaps I can scratch a little filling if needed. Thanks for the response, Maverick Gaz
  20. Oh, sorry. Its the curvy part behind the headlight fixture, that sits above the front wheels. Whichever way I try to position them, they wouldn't sit flush for some reason. The instructions also showed them as having a 1mm wide bar between the two pieces, yet that's not how they were on the sprue Gaz
  21. Very nice work. I just got one of these, and I'm completely thrown by how the front wheel housings are meant to fit under the engine/cab. I can't seem to place them in any way that seems correct. Thanks in advance for any advice Gaz
  22. Thanks for the info, dnl, much appreciated Gaz
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