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Yeoman1942

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About Yeoman1942

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  1. I have just checked on youtube and a search of Scale a ton sopwith snipe brings up a series of 6 build logs. I watched them all before I built my camel, so not sure which one covers the exterior paint technique. If your short on time I’d plump for a start at 3 and adjust from there. I like his videos as they show you paint mixes and pressures as well as close ups of applying paint. hope this helps
  2. No problem Mikey. i watched a good Sopwith Snipe build on YouTube by Scale a ton . It shows a pretty easy to follow process that builds up a nice depth of finish. Your idea of a wash is a good one
  3. Looking good. WnW call out a 2:1 mix of XF62 to XF 10 flat brown for the upper surfaces. I think it comes out a bit too brown,so went fro 3:1. As the mixes were not too tightly controlled there is a good degree of artistic interpretation you can apply
  4. Thanks Wmcgill. Should have looked not the website. The last image is really helpful They did get properly manky after a decent length of flight
  5. Thanks for all the really helpful replies. Bags of castor oil staining is definitely the order of the day. I love the simplicity of the engine design. No exhaust, no complicated cooling system , just get the whole engine and prop to to rotate around and axis and dump the oil and gasses out into the air. Noisy and inelegant, but it worked . Thanks again to all the Britmodellers for the fabulous posts and photos. Yeoman
  6. I am building a WnW USAS Camel with the 160 HP engine and am getting to the end of painting. I thought this would be a simple question to answer, but I can't figure out where the exhaust (and the associated staining) for a rotary engine should go. I know the whole engine rotates, so I assume the exhaust just blows straight into the engine bay, but where does it go? Looking at the cowl there are two square ports that could be vents other wise there is the large hole at the bottom. This is a first WW1 build for me, so any advice from the Britmodeller community would be great. Many Thanks Yeoman
  7. love a wing nut wings build. Great job on the interior
  8. I have built one of these and they look great when finished. I left the grills alone as when you put the etch and a wash on them they look really good
  9. I was on Telic 1 as well, we got our desert DPM for the Regimental photo we had taken in Saddams palace in Basra about a week before we came home. Mind you my CS 95 was so bleached and full of sand they were pretty much desertised by the end
  10. Some were done in Germany before Saif Sahriah and the rest of the vehicles were painted locally just before crossing the border. Both were pretty quick jobs, and I think it was an acrylic paint that was designed to come off once the vehicles left the gulf. i had heard the story about the cold hangers in Germany stopping the paint from curing. We had to stop decontamination exercises before we crossed the border as the karchers were blasting the paint off. Early Telics were desert or normal DPM as MTP was only issued much later in about 2010 or so hope this helps.
  11. if you are doing an Op Telic Challenger 2 then you should chip with green as the desert yellow was pretty fragile and weathered quite rapidly
  12. Hi Das Abtielung Just finished one of the CSM Lanchesters, really enjoyable kit to build and gives a great result. I was thinking of the same pairing, but like you couldn't find any evidence. The IWM has some good images from the caucuses including some of trucks that look a lot like model T's to my untrained eye. The kit came together very quickly, so should fit well into your limited time All the best Yeoman
  13. Top job Bish. Many hours in the wash down to get that one sorted
  14. Thanks Teddy, keep us posted on here as I am sure there will be plenty of takers
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