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Mark_1984

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Everything posted by Mark_1984

  1. Just a thought, but have you tried warming the cable ties with a hair drier ?
  2. Apple green or mint ? Come on, make your mind up !
  3. Have a look on Scalemates https://www.scalemates.com/search.php?fkSECTION[]=All&q=h2r I don't know if that link will work, but Acu-Stion do some.
  4. I've used Hobby Design detail sets, and they don't always fit well. Top Studio also do a super detail set, and you can see exactly what you get. I've never used Top Studio, so don't know how they fair in the quality stakes though. Perhaps somebody else here has some personal experience ? http://www.hiroboy.com/112_Honda_RC213V_2014_Detailup_Set_for_Tamiya_14130--product--10302.html http://www.topstudiohobby.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=1&&product_id=210#.WMFj_RicbR0 You can also download some instructions from their website, but unfortunately not the one for this set. http://www.topstudiohobby.com/index.php?route=information/information&information_id=7 I don't know if that helps or whether it just makes the choice harder.....
  5. I built this kit a few years ago. Lovely kit to build. I did scratch build a better shock, but it's completely hidden on the finished kit..... Unfortunately my photos were on Image Shack, and they've deleted all non-paying accounts so I can't upload any
  6. Thanks for the info. That's a real shame. I have the Aventador unstarted, and was thinking about buying this transkit. However, it's the big cross-heads that really annoy me. Going to have to do something about them when I eventually start the model. Hope you manage to get hold of your kit soon. I'm going to watch your build with great interest.
  7. Thanks Mike, that's perfectly clear and reasonable !
  8. Does this transkit contain bolts to replace all the horrible cross head screws in the kit ?
  9. Hi Admins, What is the policy regarding posting links to builds/info on other forums ? Allowed or not ? I thought I'd ask before I put my foot in it. Thanks Mark
  10. If you're still struggling, cut the plastic pin off the part. Get some brass wire just thin enough to go up the black tube. Cut off a short length and sand it. Drill a suitable sized hole hole where you cut the plastic pin from, superglue it in place, then superglue the tube over it. As a bonus, you can bend the brass wire to get the tube to lead out in the right direction.
  11. I changed them on my Honda RC166, which is somewhere in the ready for inspection section. Mainly, it was a case of putting bits of brass rod, superglued to hold the part, and then adding a slice of hex plastic to represent a bolt head. Not perfect, but (IMHO) it looked better. Still, each to their own. It's your model after all. It's looking fantastic already. I love the frame colour, and am sorely tempted to have a bash at this one.
  12. Looks very good. Are you going to replace the horrible cross head screws Tamiya insist on providing, or replace them with something more scale-like. Apologies if you don't mind the screws - but they are my pet hate.....
  13. As others have said, these are big, detailed and expensive kits. The price is spread over a couple of years which makes it more affordable. They are prefinished, usually clip and screw together so are an easy build, but not an immersive modelling experience. It suits some people, not others.
  14. A bit late now, but I always use the standard Halfords primer. I understood that the plastic primer has an acid which attacks plastic. Helps it to stick to plastic bumpers, but no good for scale models. Ive always had great results with the standard primer. Sticks to brass and plastic really well.
  15. That's a very impressive kit. I didn't know Revell made any cars in 1/8 scale apart from the E Type. Watching with interest.
  16. The bent cast part is almost certainly a production issue. Assuming it's Zamac, it will break before bending. I was was on the verge of buying this kit, but am having second thoughts now.
  17. If you'll excuse me reviving an old thread. The cast parts are resin with a very realistic metallic coating. However, they are quite crudely cast and brittle. The wheels are OK, but the guns are very poor, and I've left them off my kit. The etched parts are nickel steel (I think) so don't tarnish (at least haven't done yet !) However, the parts are only 5 thou thick so very easy to bend unless you handle the model very carefully. On the plus side, there is virtually no 'spring' in the parts, so they stay where you bend them. I'm about half way through the kit, and it's very challenging. Starting to look very impressive though.
  18. Just got a copy of this kit from Hong Kong. It came in grey plastic and no green coating on the etched fret. Have to agree whole heartedly with the review. Nice kit, fit is generally good, but the instructions aren't always the easiest to follow. My build is coming on nicely, and the weathering is going to be fun. There are a couple of good walk-around photo collections on the web if you have a look on Scalemates.
  19. Thanks for the tip on using wire wool to polish the crank case. After a somewhat unsuccessful attempt with Tamiya rubbing compound, I ordered some wire wool, and it worked a treat. Love your tank, it's come up a treat !! My sides are getting polished as I don't have access to nickel plating kits (I'm about to move house so buying new toys is a no-no !) but sanding and polishing has worked well. Have you tried the engine in the frame yet ? I found I had to bend the front down-tube out a little as the fixing points were too close together by about 1mm.
  20. Thanks to the link to the book - it's a brilliant reference
  21. Cratecruncher has polished his and it looks perfect to me. I shall be doing the same on my kit. See his WIP thread >= http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234994926-19th-brough-superior-ss100-model-factory-hiro/?p=2221168 He's doing an outstanding job.
  22. Brilliant !! Great to see a less than serious subject executed so well !
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