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  1. In the early 70s, 36440 began being supplanted by 16440 so keep that in mind. F-4 undersides were always gloss. That includes gear wells. When I look at photos of 36440 painted aircradt, it seems there’s always a noticeable sheen. A search of photos in Pintrest will pretty much corroborate this.
  2. Tamiya Rattle can Pure White is the best thing since sliced white bread; decanted or straight. This is the smoothest, toughest finish you’ll get.
  3. wschurr

    RAF Dark Green

    What is the best commercially available match for WW2 Dark Green? I’ve traditionally used used Xtracolor but since I cant get a reliable source in the US, I’ve started using Mr Color. Mr Color has two versions of this color but their rendition of the WW2 shade kind of resembles OD. What do you guys think?
  4. From the late 70s through the 90s I was assigned to various USAF organizations with F-4s. I wish now that I had kept more references for all of the directives on corrosion control but I didnt. What I can say with certainty is you shouldnt get hung up on an exact FS code. There was considerable variability especially when the gray schemes of the late 80s-90s came in to vogue. Let your eye be the judge and pick photo references for your particular aircraft. What I can say with certainty is, walkway texture was achieved by mixing aluminum oxide grit with the camo color. This stuff would wear down as you can see from the various images posted in this thread. It was not uncommon for old walkways to be painted over and left as is; no black outline or new topcoat color. This explains why in some photos you can just make out a faint outline of the walkway. One more thing . There was no apparent standardization with the application of a walkway on the aft spine area to include no skid pled to either side of the vertical fin. Some had it, sone didnt. Non skid to this area came along with E-G models.
  5. I used these on my recent Tam build. I’m knowledgeable on the US harness system on the H-7 so. I know where stuff should go. A few elements of this set are good but others like the lap belt, are not accurate for US F-4s. I emailed KW months ago and requested perhaps an online downloadable set of instructions. I love the 3D concept but a more accurate rendition would be welcome. BTW, the main components of the kit supplied seat are very accurate and well worth using over any aftermarket replacements. The modeler just needs a harness solution.
  6. You're going to take the inside of the kit plastic and the outside of the resin to as thin as you can make them; to the point of translusence. Keep dry fitting as you go and use caution! I love Aires detail but getting things to fit requires a little time and patience.
  7. What that the! As I was saying, I built both fighter and recce of the KH. I think they make honest replicas but certainly not ultra-stellar. Shoot, you can make a nice rendition with the Monogram kit. Check your references for external details before you embark. Especially vents etc. The Canucks had some pretty one oh ones to be sure. This makes me want to build one !
  8. I built the KH Fand ‘
  9. Don't worry about matching it to a FS number. The blue and yellow these days are commercial proprietary colors.
  10. Xtracolor is my no.1 cuz it’s British. MM and Hum make good ones as well. Did you know the first Land Rovers were painted “Cockpit Green”? Look it up.
  11. I don’t know the exact designation, but the shoulder harness was blue and looked similar to a “Q” type. I’ve got this kit on my bench right now. Where is this bird now btw?
  12. How ‘bout one in 32 scale. What a ballsy jet.
  13. http://www.ejectionsite.com/frame_sg.htm The text has the answer
  14. I’ve seen that photo a number of times over the years and wonder why no one has ever mentioned it in any of the model forums. I recently saw a pic of a different usn jet minus the mlg door.
  15. What is a good match for the Pastel Green on the LR.? I’m doing the new Revell kit and want as close a match as possible.
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