Jump to content

gamevender

Members
  • Posts

    255
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by gamevender

  1. Markings are for a carrier ambulance as used by the 2nd New Zealand division in Italy in '44. The "91" in black denotes a field ambulance unit.
  2. This was one of those projects I've wanted to do for a long time and finally got around to it. I got the Milicast kit of the Carrier Ambulance, but quite frankly it stunk. Terrible casting, voids, bubbles, blobs, etc. Pretty much unbuildable. However, the tilt was ok and some of the detail parts were alright. I just needed to get the Universal carrier. Well, there's only one in 1/76, which was the scale of the Milicast kit, and that's the venerable Airfix with 6 pdr. Most of this kit's shortcomings would be hidden under the tilt, so that was no problem. The only major modification is that the back wall of the 'fighting compartment', has to be taken off, the sides extended and a box of some sort put in the middle. Interior rails for the stretchers were added and I built a stretcher to fit. Some other detail parts from the Milicast kit were added and then the tilt fixed in place. I have found that one of the hardest finishes to weather effectively is white. I gave it my best shot, but it still doesn't look as I would have liked, but it does fit in nicely in with my other vehicles of mercy.
  3. Since they are mainly aimed at the war gamer, many of The Plastic Soldier Company's kits each have multiple vehicles in them. I wanted a decent small scale Valentine as the very old Fujimi and ESCI kits were quite dated, and the PSC offered what they call a "Reinforcement" Valentine, which is just one bagged Valentine, so I decided to try it. What I got was one complete lower hull and two one-piece suspension units, but two different upper hulls and three different turrets. So, you really only had enough parts to build one, complete, tank, although with a choice of three different marks. However, with a little ingenuity and a pretty big box of spare parts, I was able to put together a second lower hull and suspension, so I got two kits out of the deal. The donor kit parts are from the ESCI offering and are also in 1/72 scale. However, their 1/72 must be somewhat different from PSC 1/72 as the ESCI lower hull was a full 5mm longer and needed to be cut down to fit, but the actual suspension units and tracks fit fine. Go figure. I added a few bits and bobs of detail parts from the spares box to each, but much more could be done in the way of removing molded on handles and replacing them with wire, etc, but I was not up to that as I just wanted a decent looking Val in my collection. The green one is a Mk IX with the 6 pdr. gun and three man turret as used by the 6th Armoured Division in Tunisia before they got their Crusader Mk. IIIs. It has the one piece PSC suspension and track units while the other is a Mk. III with the 2 pdr. gun and three man turret as used by the 23rd Armoured Brgd. in the Western Desert and has the ESCI suspension and track. They are nice little kits and fun to build as there is a low parts count, very nice molding and little clean up.
  4. No, no windscreen. They are designed mainly for wargamers who don't demand that level of detail. I have put windscreens in other kits of theirs, but just didn't bother this time.
  5. I have fallen in love with these kits. They bring the 'fun' back into modeling. This kit consists of less than twenty parts, yet builds up into a nice little model. I had a couple of these trailers left over from other academy kits, so I added some stowage from the spares box and hooked it up. I did notice from the photos, however, that I didn't do such a good job on painting the headlights, but that's easily remedied.
  6. The railings are 1/600 scale generic railings. I used the ones made by Tom's Model Works, who also acquired White Ensign Models PE stock. They are available via the internet at www.tomsmodelworks.com. If you haven't worked with PE, I'd suggest watching a few on-line videos as while not difficult, it can be tricky. As to the gun barrels, they were made from appropriately sized plastic rod stock from Plastruct. I'm pretty sure a local hobby shop or model train store near you would stock it or something similar.
  7. I had done the old Hasagawa Grant ages ago but the turret on the model is tragic in shape and size, so I tried my hand, poorly as it turned out, on making a new one. Years went by and I decided I wanted a bettter Grant in my collection, so I purchased the Mirage kit. While having a MUCH better turret, the hull was ill fitting and needed much fiddling and putty and when completed, didn't measure up to what I was looking for. So, enter the old Hasagawa kit. The hull is nicely done and fits much better. Drawbacks are the tools are molded in place and the three piece transmission cover is poorly represented, so I used the Mirage turret on the Hasagawa hull, reworked the transmission cover using the Mirage bolt flanges, used the Mirage PE brush guards on the headlights and added the tail lights from the Mirage kit (missing altogether from the Hasagawa one), added cast texture to the turret and transmission cover, cut out the engine intake and added the grill from some PE I had, drilled out the barrels of the 75 and 37mm guns, added the sand shield rails and handles to the side doors and the rear engine door access door, used the Mirage tracks and added the antenna. The markings represent a Grant of the Queens Bays at the Battle of Ghazala in 1942.
  8. Ha! Gotcha! Actually a dis-assembled and repainted Solido die-cast. Added the seat belts and a new instrument panel. Always wanted to do this. I was "inspired" a long long time ago when I saw, of all things, a real Corvette on the D.C. Beltway painted in this way.
  9. The only real metal to metal joint with a seam was the body halves, left and right, which resulted in a seam across the top in front of the windshield and vertically in the middle of the rear of the body. Both would have been very visible. I filled the seam with superglue as I was in doubt whether any putty I had available would adhere properly. After some filing and sanding, it blended in pretty well. All metal body and fender parts got a coat of a good primer, then were lightly sanded, then more primer, then were gone over with fine steel wool, then got several coats of paint. It's not one of those contest winning mirror finishes, but then real cars that get driven usually don't have such finishes anyway. I just went back to the company's web site, and they no longer list these kits, so I guess any future projects will have to rely on ebay or vendors at model shows.
  10. The Hubley Company use to make a line of metal car kits. About 80-90% of the parts were cast metal with smaller detail or more complicated parts injection molded. They featured rubber tires and chrome plated parts and were held together with an assortment of screws, tabs and in the case of the plastic parts, cement. They even came with a small file to remove any metallic or plastic flash and were pretty detailed for the time. They were not really aimed at the young modeler, but being the dunce I was (and am), I got into them anyway. They had models of several versions of the Ford Model A, I think a ’32 Chevy Coupe, a model “T”, several Packards and even a couple Duesenbergs. I built most of them, including a Duesenberg and they were pretty impressive when completed. An advantage of the cast metal bodies and frames was that you could use automotive lacquer touch up spray paint on them and get a really nice finish. The Ertl Company then re-released them and then went through the usual gyrations of being taken over by other bigger fish, but Joseph Ertl has kept the business alive in the form of a company named, oddly enough, Scale Models. From their web site it would seem that most of their business is toy and peddle tractors, however, they have released a limited line of the old metal car kits. In a fit of nostalgia when I saw these kits were again available, I bought one, thinking that surely I could do better now than I did all those years ago. I got a Packard Duel Cowl Phaeton and here’s how it turned out.
  11. The A-10 is about 5.5 cm long. And just for future reference, that's a Quarter and is about 2.5 cm in diameter.
  12. Latest completion. Plastic Soldier Company kits in 1/100. Scene is a meeting between an A-10 of the 1st armoured division and a Scout Carrier of the 52 Highland Division somewhere along the retreat out of France in 1940. These kits are amazingly detailed for the scale, go together very nicely and put the fun back in modeling.
  13. They did change the tooling from the original release. The original had all individual struts, making alignment very dicey, and had the crew sitting on pegs from the fuselage sides. The release pictured, which is the one required by the Airwaves PE set, has an interior, albeit very basic, but best of all the inter-plane struts are "O's", so the rake of the top wing is much easier to set. However, for some reason, they still omitted the arrester hook, a somewhat essential piece of kit on a carrier aircraft.
  14. This is the second release the the old Airfix Swordfish. I did it because I had the old Airwaves detail set, which isn't needed in the new kit, and wanted to use it up. I also used the SBS rigging wires set, which adapts well to the old release, I replaced the rear gun, added the forward gun, which is omitted from the kit for some reason, used the extra fuel tank from the new kit and reworked the rocket racks. It's marked as one the a/c that operated off a MAC ship and I made the base to resemble the flight deck.
  15. Here is one of the oldest, and best selling, kits from the Revell catalogue, the Iowa class battleship. Variously released as each ship in the class in static and motorized versions, it is a proud member of the Revell flat bottomed fleet with no detail below the waterline. Even the box art is reminiscent of the old Revell boxes. The Atlantis released has been cleaned up, but fit is problematic almost everywhere, so care and planning is needed to make sure gaps and overlaps are minimized. Painting can be frustrating as the corners between decks and bulkheads are rounded, so it's difficult to get a sharp edge. It's not the definitive model of these ships, remember this kit dates from the early 1950's, however with care, it builds up into a pleasing replica of the real thing and was a fun project. I did mine pretty much OOTB, only opening up the funnels and adding blast bags to the main armament, and since the hull was an adaption of the motorized version, it had no props and the rudder was wrong. I used the rudder, but added prop shafts and props from the scrap box just so there was something there. They are not correct, but do the job.
  16. I have found Wespe resin kits to be very good. The detail is there, fit is good and there are minimal pin holes and/or flash. This one is done OOTB.
  17. I got it gloss coated, decaled and dull coated. The top wing and engine are still not attached. Next up is to add what rigging I can before I put on that wing then glue on the wing and finish the rigging.
  18. F4B-4 update. Got it all painted and pretty much ready for decals. Upper wing is not glued in place to make decaling easier. I can see several areas that need touch up, but all in all, it doesn't look too bad for a 50 year old kit.
  19. Got the fuselage of the F4 buttoned up and the elevators, landing gear and cabane struts on. The engine has shortened cylinders to fit in the ring molded into the cowl to hold the engine. It makes both the cowl and engine look odd, so I ground out the ring in the cowl and sanded the exterior to better look the part. In addition, it looked too short in cord, so I added a few millimeters to it. As to the cylinders, I added pieces of styrene tubing to their tops and sanded them until the engine just fit in the cowl. Then I added the exhaust stubs that protrude from the cowl, including one that gathers three cyliners on the port side for some reason. They look kind of rough in the photo, but the cowl hides all but the ends. I drilled out holes on the fuselage and wings to accept the rigging later on and some holes in the forward fuselage. Two of these have pipes (exhausts?) coming out of them and one is blanked off and I have no idea what its function is. Two photos show what the interior I added looks like with the fuselage closed up. I was pleasantly surprised as the fuselage joint took no putty at all except where I had to fill in the slot for the stand on the bottom. I included a photo of the elevator joints on the tail to show what a great fit it was. That joint took no putty and no sanding. I put the cabane struts on at this point to both make painting easier and to aid in aligning the top wing later on as it will have a firm base to hold it in the correct position. The landing gear part did not fit as well, however. It kind of sunk in about a millimeter or so too far, so I had to shim that up and then some putty was needed to fair it all in. Also, the V shaped shock absorbers in the middle were missing, so I added those. After a quick look-over to see if I missed anything, I'll apply a coat of primer to find all the mistakes I made so I can hopefully fix them.
  20. It was also re-released in the states by Entex.
  21. Current project. Aurora did three kits (I think) of aircraft that other manufactures would not make kits of for 20-30 years, the F4-B4, the P-12E and the SBC Helldiver. All are typical kits from the late fifties with questionable accuracy, little detail and absolute minimal interior. So I started off by cleaning up all the mold seams, flash and injection pin marks. Next I moved to the interior. Originally there was a non-descript seat perched on a platform suspended between the fuselage halves with a half-moon shaped instrument panel. I added an extension to the platform so I could add the rudder pedals, added a control column, jazzed up the seat and added seat belts from tape, and that whateveritis lever next to the seat. Then I detailed the cockpit walls with rod/strip stock and added a more realistically shaped instrument panel and the butt ends of the MGs. Next step is to close up the fuselage and work on that seam, then on to the wings/tail assemblies. The microphotography makes it look a lot grubbier than it really is.
  22. I got this kit in a grab bag of kits I bought. It's from the 1956 molds and even had the pilot's head molded in halves integral to the fuselage sides. There are many inaccuracies and omissions, so to build it 'right' would be a real waste of time as there are now many other much better representations, including Airfix's own excellent re-tooled one. But I decided to do it just for fun, so I did it as a desk model and since it was to be in flight, I added the 'spinning' prop. I also rigged it, which was not called for in the instructions, and added the antenna, which you may notice is the wrong configuration, but since there were so many other 'problems' and it was simpler to do this way, I settled for it amongst all the other inaccuracies, which includes the markings. The kit's decals were useless, so I got some out of the spares box. They actually belong to a Hawker Fury of First Squadron, but hey, in for a penny in for a pound, inaccuracy-wise.
  23. Agree on the hull problem, but why would Renwal mold the superstructure to accommodate such sheer if there was none in their version? Just seems odd.
×
×
  • Create New...