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sonny

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About sonny

  • Birthday 29/06/1978

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  1. Thanks, ok thats a good idea about drillings holes first then cutting. I know about the flange holes as a friend done that to his race car so inderstand the process and yes detail would be lost so not worth doing. Looks like i will have to persevere and get motivated and get drilling lol.
  2. Thanks guy, thats very similar but not in "I" beam style more like Meccano, however meccano is way to big. Hmmmm the search continues
  3. Hope posted in right area. Im after small plastic strips with holes in, like what you find on the inside of the aircraft frame (I dont know correct name). I have tried evergreen who supply a lot of small plastic parts but no joy. I have tried making them but lets say they didnt come out as expected :/ Ideally for 1/72 / 1/100 sale
  4. Before or after painting the frame? Thanks for the tip
  5. Thank you, just looking forward to final prep and painting.
  6. Front Landing Gear One thing I noticed when watching the movie to enhance the front landing gear, was there are more than one type used, depending on what scale model. It seems the smaller scale dropships have reinforcement rods or mechanical rods to make the landing gear move, not totally sure. I wanted to include this in my build with any other detail from the other scale models, so I am basically combining all of landing gears used into one for a maximum detailed piece. Rods can be seen in these close up screen shots (sorry for bad pics) Showing the 2 studio scale models, note the small one bottom left of pic. ..and landing gear done. Added additional detail to the inside of the landing gear housing, the Oleo struts actually work and so does the hinge as I got a little carried away, these will be fixed in eventually for durability . Detail of hinge, which clips onto the longitudinal brass rod located in the housing.
  7. Side missile wings This is where I am with the missile wings, been thickened up. Just needs poly filling and smoothing off. Missiles will be custom jobbies (more on that later).
  8. Picked up on this project again after the Christmas break, where I have been doing "bits" to this here and there, and not really worthy of an update. So where are we at the moment, I redesigned the missile pylon hinges as I was happy with the angle that sat at (to high) when deployed, I will leave that for another update. So my attention turned towards the missile pods themselves. Missile Pod redesign Looking at the original items used on the movie is seems there was a few variants, in terms of details, such as the smaller model and the large model used. Few shots Studio model Studio model (on display) Prop from one of the original model, scale unknown I new pods will mostly be rebuilt enabling a lip to surround the external part of the pod allowing the 2 large inner blocks to be retained when in the closed position, these fouled on the models hull when closed, making them not close probably. (was a choice to have them on or off when building the original model). Mk88. launch bins added I wanted to make the tips of the missiles of the mk88's bins poke though so I made a crude missile rack from cocktail sticks and lots of superglue. Next job was is the upper MK10. Missile silo Mk10. Missile rack prob from movie (scale unknown) Out come the trusty cocktail sticks Mocked in position Rear vent view, needs a bit of jigging, but pretty happy with that. Not a bad fit So that is it for the pods, the 16 missiles (32 in total) and rack mounts will be built up from scratch after I have done the hull which will be some time yet.
  9. Hi, yes this one indeed, its a very good build, I see you ised the Gonzio ACP, im in two minds weather to use that or fork out for a Aoshima diacast one. i have the 1/100 variant Kaomi thats looks ok when on the ramp but the scale nazis would sloughter it.. I noticed you put the extra Oleo piston on the rear, just like how it should. 6 Dropships were used on the set of aliens with 3 different mix of scales and all these had slight differences, esp around the landing gear areas (to the eagle eyed). Did you use the same pin hinges?
  10. Toothpast is good esp on car headlight, but I found it to be too course on anything else, the Megs product I had in the garage anyway and also has added polishing benefits like leaving a good shine.
  11. Looks like a great kit! Nice paint job too.
  12. Rear AFT Ski development The rear landing gear (AFT Ski) was next, I wanted it to look more like the movie option than the actually CMTM and other renditions, this has seen a few options. So this will be based on the studio model and the 1;1 studio prop and will contain extra detail. Side elevation of AFT Ski, this is different from OOB option. How it looks OOB, with just added rear Hydraulic cylinder and hyrdo hoses Screen shot from the movie showing hoses in and around the AFT strut. Reworked ski platform, chopped front end and top rail replaced with metal rail and additional hydraulic cylinders with hydro hoses and rear flap with lightweight side holes drilled Next was to jazz up the undercarriage around the AFT strut support, again this has been left disconnected for ease of paint and prep stage.
  13. Some of the eagle eye among you will notice that I have painted the body again, this was done as a base coat a few months back, since then I have I wasn't happy with how it looked so then went back to the drawing board to continue to develop the build. Rotating Missile Pylons I wanted to be able to rotate the larger missile pylons, The model OOB lets you decide if you want them open or closed but you have to glue them in place for the open option or making very basic alterations to the pylon ends in order to locate to the hull. However I wanted to use a hinged method, one that would be hard wearing and easy to use. I tried numerous of methods, different hinges, fabric hinge, tape etc, but wasn't happy with the results, mainly due to the spring action on some of the plastic hinges, some of them being too big and on show. I then tried the Kavan pin hinges, bit of a result as they seemed perfect for the job, hope was not lost after all. Plastic hinge plates connected by copper pin, cut to size A slot was then cut into the hull join and enlarged, alignment at this stage was critical, best done with the pylon in with a small spot of glue holding the hinge in place first and marked with a pencil so the hinge can be glued fully in place when pylon is removed. I then beveling the sides of the hull so the center point of the pin hinge runs vertically in line with the body, otherwise it wont open fully at the correct angle. Hinge dropped in for final test adjustment Inside the hull, this was fixed in with superglue, this had to be done at this stage before the internal hull panels get put in place. Sorry about the state of that interior, that was from the previous look. Hinge now joined to the missile pylon from the inside, and also beveled recess for the hinge to sit in. The outside face was also filed to get the correct angle, this is necessary due to the outside "angled wedge" that comes with the kit, this has to be removed. In place when deployed, unfortunately I had to remove some of the plasticard in the pylon arm to gain access, so this will have to be replaced at a later date. ..and frontal view, the angle could do with being a "smidgen" open, but that will do at the moment, time to work on the other side, then do all the fine adjustments so they are equal to the eye. Once they are done, I will then simply pull the copper rod out of the hinges so the pylons can come away from the main body to make it easy for paint and prep, Overall i'm happy with that, and relieved too, the hinges also have natural movement (end float) so the pylons can wriggle into the closed position so these are not too rigid, which will be ideal. The missile pods will be totally reworked individual 32 Banshee missiles (a common thing to do on these), and smaller individual MK.88 Launch bins.
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