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  1. Nice progress Ian! That front office looks the part for sure, and I like your 4000lb bomb upgrade. Looking forward to more! Cheers, Tom
  2. Great quality paintwork Ian! Not sure if you are interested, but True Details makes a 1/32 RAF parachute pack that can fit in that frame behind the pilot's seat: https://www.scalemates.com/kits/true-details-32514-raf-wwii-era-aircrew-parachute-1--282949 Cheers, Tom
  3. Ian, great to see it here first! “The Reidling Effect”: has a nice ring to it... Cheers, Tom
  4. Ian, Great work on salvaging the fuselage, and I like your approach to oilcanning--a lot quicker than carving out plastic! Cheers, Tom
  5. Great work Ian! I am finding the HK sprue glue handy as well. I’ve seen Tamiya sprue glue used before, but you have refined it by making it specific to each build by using that build’s sprues. Great idea. Cheers, Tom
  6. Ian, I managed to figure out how to omit the engine from the nacelle. I'll use the starboard outer as an example. The only engine components you'll need are: 1) Y15 propeller shaft. Attach this to K43 the nacelle front. 2) Y4 forward radiator face. Attach this to H8 the lower cowling. This will be the trickiest part to line up, but I'd suggest adding styrene spacers to help. 3) K11 firewall. Attach this to G11 and G12 the rear nacelle halves. This will be critical to help line up the cowling sections. I assembled everything and the fit was surprisingly good. One last thing: be sure to attach K47 to the inside of the wing corresponding to the outer nacelle. It really helps flex the wing into position, making it easier to get a better fit for the wingtip. Hope this helps! Cheers, Tom
  7. Ian, I am up against this myself right now: how to assemble the engines with the minimum number of parts for the non-display option. Cheers, Tom
  8. Nice modification Ian! I haven’t seen anyone else do this with their build. Cheers, Tom
  9. Ian, All of the component parts appear in the first photo on the link. I do have experience using brass sets (white metal as well, which is more fragile for this application--see SAC U/C sets). Like white metal you will have a seam to clean up with a file, but the Aerocraft sets have impressive detail. I have their set for the 1/32 Bronco, and for that aircraft I think the purchase is worth it. I haven't read any complaints about the HK U/C, and my thinking was that when I get to the stage and I'm not happy, I would spring for the purchase. Hope this helps! Tom
  10. Thanks Ian. Odd that HK would have this in the strut. Like you wrote, it can only weaken. BTW, if the whole thing is too wobbly for your liking, Aerocraft makes this: https://aerocraftmodels.bigcartel.com/product/avro-lancaster-undercarriage-set-for-the-hong-kong-model-kits Cheers, Tom
  11. Ian, ah yes, now that I go back I see it now. I should post AFTER my morning coffee. So what is the hole for? It looks like something is supposed to attach to it from it’s keyed shape. BTW, I was also planning to remove the non-retracting bar. Cheers, Tom
  12. Great work correcting the wing issues Ian! Getting the lines and rivets to match the adjacent areas isn’t easy, but they look seamless. For the LG strut hole that you are filling, was that for the non-retracting bar? Cheers, Tom
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