LaurieS

Got this one to build. Built the Jackal . Both are nice models and yours has turned out very nicely. Laurie

Tried the address form here.Will not take the full address. Do not bother with their index as it does not get you to the PE. Put in Jackal in the search and a list comes up with PE which will then take you there. Laurie.

Decided to build a second Jackal which I bought by mistake. Searched and by luck found PE for it. Incredible Cornwall model Boats stock it with all the Herrick range.still got PE in stock. http://www.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk/cgi-bin/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww.cornwallmodelboats.co.uk%2fcgi-bin%2fss000001.pl%3fpage%3dsearch%26PR%3d-1%26TB%3dA%26SS%3dcoyotepe%26ACTION%3dquick s Laurie

In my experience with compressors Jus you cannot win. These things come from China and the likelihood of getting spares is minus nil that is if you can identify the problem. By the time you have paid, if you can get spares, and the postage it is not worth trying. I would not play with these things as when they go wrong they can be lethal. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-Airbrush-Compressor-AS18-2-Oil-free-/131015709681?hash=item1e812513f1:g:BmoAAOSwQPlV89k3 This is your best bet and 12 months warranty. £47:40. Sorry to be such a pessimist but the above is the practical solution and in financial terms the best. Laurie

I use Vallejo Varnish. They do Matt Satin and Gloss. They do these in two forms. Acrylic and a Polyurethene. The Acrylic drys faster. The Polyurethene take twice the time, approx, to cure but is tougher if models are going to be handled. The acrylic matt is very very matt. The satin gives a good finish. If work is carried out after varnishing then the polyurethene is the best. For gloss for decals etc I use Humbrol Clear which is very thin and goes on well. All the above flatten out well and are forgiving unless you leave the stuff in an airbrush overnight. Ha ha. Laurie

Martin you may have already seen these. They may give help by enlarging. This source has given great help for the Afghanistan things I work on. Su-17M4 Afghanistan pictures. Laurie

Thanks Steve and Pat for your nice comments. Got the Snatch to go yet. Chose this one first as it has a lot of detail. Very intriguing model to build and plan how to attack it. Forgot. The tyres are not correct. I got some Rhino for the Jackal and Coyote after some one informed me, probably an Army Landrover Driver, that they were most definitely incorrect. They do make a difference as found on the Jackal, Laurie

Both Revel and Humbrol acrylics are water soluble. Others water soluble paints are Vallejo, Lifecolor, Mig (acrylics) Tamiya Acrylics are also water soluble but use a lacquer type thinners . I would not mix these. Most water soluble acrylics should mix together but I have not attempted it. If I did I would always use a test first. For me I prefer not to. But I have used Vallejo thinners and Flow Improver with Lifecolor and Mig. Despite the above it is safest, unless you have tested, to use the thinners attached to the paint. Despite the fact that the paints are water soluble it is better not to use water. The above paints lay themselves flat, ie flatten out, as they have specific dryers which do not have a surface tension. Water has a surface tension and will not lay down as well as the dryers in the paint will allow . Plus the paint will not dry as quickly with added water. All of the above (reserve judgement on Tamiya as I have not used them) can be coated over each other. At least after the under coat is cured. Not sure if that is what you mean. Laurie As far as I know nobody has produced a compatibility chart.

Cheers Pat. Thanks for your kind comments Next will be a Warrior. Looking at it the other night it looks an extended time job. Laurie

Thanks Steve. Another nice Airfix job. This one will go well alongside your Coyote ! Laurie

Nice progress Steve. As you know I built the Jackal, Coyote to come, and they are very nice to build. The plastic I found to be pliable yet strong. I suspect the PE for the Jackal and Coyote are now like gold dust. Laurie

One of the two in Airfix Landrover series. In there new type plastic. Great to build. Used some PE grilles etc. All acrylics general paint using Vallejo Model Air. Effects using Lifecolor. Vallejo Pigments. Laurie ">http://

Very nice Steve. A dainty thing with great effects. Looks an enjoyable model to build. Laurie

Thanks JR for your great comments. Tut on the phone box. OK. For you I will paint two sides blue. Make a good camouflage scheme. Laurie Ah ha you are a Doctor fan me thinks. (bit slow there)

Hi John This may help on your PE. They say they have 1 in stock. http://www.hobbiesonline.co.za/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=11388. For wheels Rhino RAM48004. For effects I used a small amount of Vallejo and Mig Pigments in the obvious (I hope) places they would collect. For all the remainder the effectsI used Lifcolor Water soluble Acrylics. I concocted my own way after trying others to produce the effects. I use a mix of ordinary Lifcolor paint (not wash). 50% paint and 50% Vallejo Flow improver. The flow improver does two jobs thins the paint drastically plus keeps the mix from drying on the needle. I use an Iwata HPBH. Small in length and a small bowl which makes it all easy to manipulate. I spray at about 8 to 10 PSI. This gives great control over the paint released plus you can build up very slowly and shade to nothing. I took no notice of Airfix colour recommendations. The vehicles under the sun in Afghanistan get really dulled. I used Vallejo 71.028 for the main finish 5:2 white. Lifecolor Sand and Dust mixed 1:2 Oh dear gone on a bit. Hope this is of some help. Laurie Forgot to use the quote button just in case you miss my reply. Laurie

Thanks John for your comment. Not many to go. Warrior Lynx Helicopter Supacat Coyote Harrier Tornado Landrover Snatch Chinook Under construction a Drone Reaper Finished Apache Merlin Mk1K Landrover Supacat Jackal Quad Bikes

Thanks to both of you for your kind remarks. Bit worried on the markings etc Shaun that I may have obliterated to much. Difficult blend on these things. Laurie

Very nice and crisp. Some camouflage. Laurie

Should have asked. What paints are you going to use and what airbrush and needle nozzle set up ? Another that I forgot. With acrylics , water soluble, Vallejo recently produced a Flow Improver. This is I find a must. Not had any "blockage" problems when using it. That is using both a .35 and .2 Iwata needle/nozzle. Laurie

A lot depends on the paint you are using. Cannot give advice on enamels as I use water soluble acrylics. With Vallejo Mig and Lifecolor I lay down on a primed surface a mist coat ie thinned 20% to get a good grip. After an hour I apply a full on coat. After going around a 1/48 aircraft, as an example, I can then apply another coat immediately being careful not to dwell in any one area. All the above paints are very forgiving as they layout very evenly. Unless you have "dwelled", they will not form "curtains" ie droopy bits. Even then I have found with a bit of ingenuity carefully spray to even out. You can also carefully use a hair dryer to help on the drying for further coats. Note that drying is different from curing. Leave at least 24hrs more, if patience allows, before applying tape or effects etc. Best when thinning to use the manufacturers thinners. They have the ingredients that are used to manufacturer the paint. Best not to use water as it has surface tension while the manufacturers thinners does not and lays the paint down evenly plus has driers and stickability etc essential for a good paint finish

Very nice model Rob. A very nice model to build. I built one about 2 years ago. There is an unbelievable amount of work in this. The rigging is incredible. Love your paintwork and the effects are just very artistic. A superb model and as I have found very attractive and top interest to friends who have a look at my work. If you can build this nothing after is as difficult. Also added to the model think of two or three crew in this over the Atlantic. Freezing cold, wind in your ears all the time totally exposed 200 miles out from your carrier. Basic navigation and your landing base, the carrier, perhaps 20 miles away from your take off position. Add to that at times a 40mph wind over the deck which is corkscrewing all over the Atlantic waves landing on a merchantman carrier concoction.

Thanks Si for your nice remarks. Very enjoyable to build now must get down to finishing, some what, my "diorama" ( more of a scene collection) of Afghanistan. Laurie

Great idea Danny and a very nice models. I have a similar set up with out the side walls and that works well. Hope you do not mind if I give a bit of advice on the lighting. Generally bulbs on offer are in the region of 2500 kelvin which rate their colour. The 2500 is yellow range and a soft colour. You can get now both in the old bayonet and screw in bulbs LED's. Apart from using less than 10% electricity they can also be obtained in around the 6000kelvin. This gives very close to daylight and gives a blue range. I find it gives a more realistic feel to photos of model aircraft. Laurie

Yes others have completed the Revell one. Thinking I may have had what they used to call problem cars "a Friday afternoon job". My Revell looks already like a crashed job as I have used it to practice effects etc. It is going on my Afghanistan diorama. Thanks for the video. Laurie

Thanks for your comments. Not noticed the pod thing even though studying British Apaches many times. However if I had I would not have worried myself to sleep at night. You are a brave man to have completed the Revell variety. I got to the point of finished fuselage then started the engine pods. Then as a coward I gave in. The fit on mine was diabolical the worst ever. On my diorama of all British machines in Helmand it will assume the place of complete wreck. Laurie