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Everything posted by LaurieS
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Well Chris the best thing is not to get it. I thought touch and flow was the bees knees but soon kicked it into touch. I found it a disaster area. Have you tried Mr Cement S. It is very thin and wicks well along joints. As it is thin even if you get a little on the plastic surface it will not effect the surface. But you have to have your pieces in place as it wicks and dries quickly. Found it dries (not cures) with a joint secure after 20 secs. Where I want just a little time to adjust fractionally pieces or a slightly stronger joint I use Tamiya Extra thin. That dries in about 40 secs. One thing keep the thumbs and fingers away as both cements allow incredible finger prints on pristine plastic. Laurie
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Colin unless you go for a compressor with a fridge type compressor they are all within the same band noise wise. Very approx 50 odd decibels. As has been said to keep the noise down, also to provide a better air flow, a tank is better. But even there getting a bigger tank entails the compressor running for longer when it needs to top up. Mine, a Chinese type, has a twin piston not sure if that fills the tanks faster than a single. Often wondered. Sparmax which I have been told is a better compressor still has a high decibel rating. They also make compressors for others including Iwata. With the fridge type compressor the ones I looked at are in the middle to top thirty decibels. But I was horrified just minutes before ordering to find the size of these compressor types. They are also very much more expensive. Plus they need oil removed and replaced every now and then. So this was my dilemma as well. Living in a flat even though built to the latest noise reduction standards I was still concerned about being nuisance to neighbours. So I built a sound enclosure to absorb the sound. Left about 75mm all around the compressor. I used MDF and stuck to it sound insulation about 50mm thick. The insulation is that used in sound studios to absorb noise. Found it on Amazon. Has a door at the front also insulated. This is under my work top. 600mm long 400mm deep. The compressor needs ventilation and also it draws in air. On the sides at the rear I provided long slots 75mm wide. Looked in the enclosure a few times after long sessions and the compressor is as cool as a cucumber. The result has been dramatic. Instead of a thumping noise the result is a dull hum. During airbrushing I hardly notice. I was very surprised that the enclosure could be so effective. The local timber warehouse cut the MDF to size. About £20 plus from memory the noise foam about £20 that came in 400mm sq. tiles. Plus some foam Evostick for the tiles and a couple of clips for the door. Laurie
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The Forgotten Sloggers of Chernobyl
LaurieS replied to Alesha's topic in Ready For Inspection - Dioramas
That is impressive. There is a lot of careful work which has gone into that. s a lot of rtistic and imaginative thought. On the music side try. Rick Wakeman : The Children of Chernobyl. Fantastic piano piece. Composed and played by Rick. Laurie -
If the filter you have is of good quality and approved for certain uses it will have the type of filter written on it. I would put what ever is designated in search and see what comes up. If it is a good authenticated filter it will list the activities for which the filter is appropriate. Yes no filter for that Pat but an outstanding feeling of well being can be achieved. Best I understand to have a malted one as they are much less harmful. Laurie
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Hi. Not cheap to get a good mask with takes the filters which will give protection for the alcohol fumes. I use this mask which is good quality. Cost as you will see about £20 that is without the filters. http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/product/832401/Willson-1001573-WILLSON-HALF-MASK-VALUAIR-PLUS-Depending-on-the-Filter This mask takes numerous filters which are approved by the relevant bodies for use with a variety of fumes and airborne particles. The downside is that these filters cost a lot more than the mask. Think you will find that cheaper masks and filters are not certified as being capable of protection and probably are not capable. Worth reading this. http://www.poison.org/articles/2013-sep/inhaling-alcohol-is-dangerous Laurie
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If the tank was authentically built to scale it would weigh 1.714285714 tons.In proportion to your tonnage system used. Not sure what tonnage system you are in Kansas ! UK avoirdupas 2240 lbs ton North America 2000 lbs a ton. Do not lose sleep or you will lose weight. The only difference that weight makes to colour in scale is that the paint will weigh just 1/35 of the full size tank. Laurie
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Agree on that Alan on the scale thing. I on average put in a bit of white "to give scale effect". The white does not change the colour (or hue). It is wrong to use the term colour but we all do it, at least some, but generally meaning lightening which is tinting.. In the same way we use shade to describe sometimes a slight change of colour or lightening where as in fact it is actually the adding of black to darken a colour. As is adding white to a colour which is tinting but is used a lot to describe the slight changing of a colour. Laurie
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On the wave thing I suspect that it may be the influence of the convoy. I suspect that Tracker would have been in the middle to protect the ship. Laurie
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Very interesting question Tony and one which will be revisited many times. In the end it depends on what you find more attractive. More important for me. When an aircraft comes out of the factory it looks as it should perfect. But after being in the air or perhaps Afganistan the paint work takes a hell of a beating. That is both in sand blasting and the bleaching effect of the sun. The Airfix Merlin I built had the final colour so much different to the colour coming out of Westlands as represented as being in service in Afgahnistan.. Parts are taken off and renewed when in service panels replaced and the engineer put a coat of paint on the disturbed area and in the end it becomes a bit of a patch work quilt. To follow that in a model will look, to me, a bit peculiar. Also if you see an army vehicle or an RAF Helicopter or aircraft on the tarmac in cloudy conditions or in bright sunlight a photographer will tell you the white light changes the apparent colour. The colour on your shelf of the finished aircraft will also look different if in average domestic lighting, yellow tinge (Kelvin 3000) or if in daylight lighting (Kelvin6000). So I take my pick of all those. Also, sacrilege, what appeals to me finally on the shelf. Matter of interest I built the Tamiya Swordfish and I obtained a lot of information from the Fleet Air Arm museum. Below if a photo showing a Swordfish belonging to HMS Tracker. Shows what a state they got into in service. May help with the weathering effects situation. Other photos I obtained at the time of building show great areas where the paint had been stripped off. Again to effect that situation will , again for me, look over the top. https://www.google.com/search?q=swordfish+aircraft+pictures&safe=active&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjen-f4spbMAhWF6RQKHRENDE0Q7AkIMQ&biw=1600&bih=702 This gives a few among the pristine which show some effects of weather and service. Laurie ">http://
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No need to apologize at all. I did not take it as taking the mick. I just thought I would explain why I installed the lighting. There is only one hole out thro. the underside of the body. The wires are thin as the current is neglible the lighting being LED. Did the same on the Merlin and hid the wires within the bulkhead with only a hole in the underside of the fuselage. Go on have a go. Light up. Laurie
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Warrior as in Afghanistan. Very nice model to build. Pity that in the drivers section only a seat. No engine or any other detail. Rich with detail in the rear section. Red Zebra for the crew and luggage. PE an optional extra from Airfix supplied to them by Eduard. Vallejo Model Air used as for the main colours. Effects Lifecolor used partly for colours required and also easier, I find, to use at low pressure over long periods. Used Vallejo Flow Improver in the Lifecolour which stops, almost, all clogging using small needle nozzle and low PSI Build at http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234996618-148-bae-warrior-part-of-an-afghanistan-british-collection/ Laurie ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http://
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Revell colour mixes to Tamiya/Gunze/Vallejo
LaurieS replied to coolingthunder's topic in Aircraft WWII
A convoluted way would be to take the Revell colours. Perform a conversion say to Vallejo Model. Then mix the two Vallejo colours. Then see if there is a single colour in the Vallejo range which matches. This could be boring. Alternative, as by this time you will be loco, is to paint everything brown. Laurie -
Revell colour mixes to Tamiya/Gunze/Vallejo
LaurieS replied to coolingthunder's topic in Aircraft WWII
Cannot help with the colour situation. But the adding up to a 100 would make difficult numbers . 75/15 gives 5 to 1. 66/33 gives 2/1 makes it easy for measuring. Laurie -
1/48 BAE Warrior part of an Afghanistan British Collection
LaurieS replied to LaurieS's topic in Work in Progress - Armour
Progress and near the finishing line. Laurie ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// ">http:// -
Very nice got this one on the shelf. Spurred me on lots of very nice detail. Nice model with lots going on. Laurie
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This is what I have achieved. This is using Paraffin gauze dressing. The scale is 1/48. Laurie ">http:// ">http://
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Thanks for the info. I took a quick look in Boots but they do not seem to stock ordinary bandages. They were all dressings etc. Must have another look. Laurie
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Thanks for your advice Dave. Not had much luck that is in Jersey we are limited. No body seems to stock, not suprised really, the old fashioned netting with just squares. I got some medicated paraffin gauze. Took some getting rid of the paraffin which is gooey. But it is very supple and I think will look OK. Cut out to make larger squares which looks better. Make friends with your local dressmaker! Hmmm think I will stick to nets. Laurie
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None taken Mark and there is no need for apology. We all have our views and that is how much information is passed on. It is an interesting post. Laurie
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Seems then that the best is to get an FS swatch of colours and color co-ordinate as this seems the only way to obtain the exact colour. Any other method is guess work. I do believe there is also an RAF colour swatch issued by an English manufacturer who provides paint for renovated aircraft etc. For me I like to finish as an aircraft helicopter or vehicle in the element where they are in use. The original colour, now progressing with an Afghanistan collection, is faded and bleached. Studying pictures the colour deterioration is shown by patched up paint (assuming the correct colour). Now off to bed to dream about colour. But not Azure Blue. Dessert yellow I think. Laurie
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Interesting. I must admit that I would not be able to judge the closeness of a colour unless faced with the orginal to compare with. Have tested a couple of times the equivalents of Vallejo Model Air and Lifecolor have found them extremely close. Probable that Vallejo Model is a more accurate representation of the colour. It is a more dense paint and is less affected by the colour of the base plastic or primer colour.. Lifecolour and Model air being quite thin paints there is is certain transparency as witnessed by pre effects of panel lines. Laurie
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James I use this which is very helpful being the Federal standard Colours. http://modelingmadness.com/review/allies/cleaver/us/tmckh1.htm This list azure Blue as used by the RAF as Federal Standard FS 35231 These relate to the following conversions. Vallejo Model 902 (62) Vallejo Model Air 71.108 Lifecolor LC-UA098 All the above list these colours under the FS 352231. You may wish to fade these a bit, which is what I do, for scale. I on average put in one drop of white with 5 of the colour. But it is best to experiment. Best to use white as it is neutral and will not change the colour just fade it down. some use yellow but this does change the colour signature. Laurie