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Engineer66

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About Engineer66

  • Rank
    All the gear but no idea!
  • Birthday 05/24/1966

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Stockton on Tees
  • Interests
    Anything really.

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  1. Hi, really interesting build. this clip has some really good close up footage of the crew loading the charges and rockets. https://youtu.be/2I51-H2hqc8 Al
  2. Thanks again chaps for the replies. Ozzy, I've seen the transfer and PE zimmerit but decided to 'do it properly' using 'no-nails' and a Tamiya tool to scribe the pattern...never again! It goes everywhere! Jack, thanks for the link, really useful, I'm now starting to narrow down the time period. thinking of leaving the Zimmerit missing from below where the track guards where. My logic is it was applied in the field and the crew couldn't be bothered to remove the guards, since then it has suffered damage and some guards are missing. Hence some missing guards and only zimmerit above where they would have been. cheers Al
  3. Thanks for the replies chaps. when looking at the tank the gap between the road wheels and fenders is relatively small so the odds of getting a mine in there would be small so I was assuming that field applied zimmerit would not have been applied below the track guards as it would have been a pain to remove and re-fit them. Then I saw the photos posted by Jack and they show the coating going all the way to the bottom behind where the track guards would have been. I've seen quite a few pics showing this and wondered if it was factory applied and would the tanks have had the track guards fitted as there are quite a few pictures showing tanks with no track guards. Where they always fitted? cheers Al
  4. Engineer66

    Tiger 1 zimmerit

    Hi all, i apologise if this has been asked before but I can't find anything after searching. I'm building the Tamiya mid production Tiger 1 and have decided to attempt to apply zimmerit. I am also planning on removing some of the side 'mudguards/fenders' as damaged. My question is would the zimmerit have gone all the way down the side to the bottom of the hull side, or would it have been applied behind the side mudguards, (the ones that stick out the side) so if I remove some of the mudguards would the area underneath be covered in zimmerit or not? thanks Al
  5. How about a set of Nebelwerfers in various scales? Cracking job on the sand filters, they really do look the part. It's a bit strange but I'm that used to seeing pictures of Chinooks with them fitted they now look wrong without them. Keep up the persistence. Al
  6. Ah Ced, you're making me feel all nostalgic now! When I was at 6th form we used to write our program on a 'form' which was then sent off to the local university for punching and then loading into their UNIVAC (iirc). If you hadn't made a mistake you got a print out on that lovely stripey tractor feed paper and a small stack of cards about a week later. And yes I have used one of those punch machines to produce new cards for amended code. :-) I foolishly left 6th form after a few months to start working for a high street bank as they promised to give me money every month and didn't set homework! After a very short spell as office junior ( a proven inability to make a decent cuppa can be a real career boost) I was entrusted with changing programs on the branch terminals. We had five gaint Burroughs machines, each the size of a sideboard, with no fancy 'display screens' just a tractor feed printer with a daisy wheel that would have your fingers off if you strayed too close and a keyboard that as you pressed each key you could feel the clockwork! Changing programs involved feeding a length of punched paper tape into the beast and took about 30-40 minutes. The dangerous bit was rolling it back up again afterwards. I remember there was a handle clamped to the edge of a desk where you fed the end of the tape into a slot and then us the handle to wind it back up, and you had best keep your feet out of the way, cos if you stood on the tape without realising and tore it you were in serious do-dah! You would have to report to the branch manager and request permission to get a new tape from the safe. And this was in the days when even the assistant manager called him Sir or Mr Xxxxxxx. But hey I was working with real computers and was King of the neighbourhood Sorry for for the thread drift Perdu but I blame it on Ced and all this talk of times past making me all nostalgic. It wasn't as much fun when they updated to new machines and I had to use my 8 inch floppy instead... Al
  7. Not been on here for a while due to some unfortunate family matters I've had to deal with. My condolences on your loss Crisp. Lovely work on the jump seat and steps, it's a shame to hide them. Glad you took the bait I laid and sent for the wing nuts Al
  8. Sorry I didn't reply earlier but I've had a lot going on at home and have not been able to log on recently. it's sold as 'beading wire' you can find it in the jewelry making section, I have two types, they still sell the packets but not the reels, which are the ones i prefer. I also have a small stock of electricians solder which works well. This is the stuff I use: Thanks for the comments all. Alan
  9. Found a couple of pictures of the work I did to reshape and deepen the turret and remove the strange Tamiya undercut at the front whilst I was looking for something else, so thought I'd share them here. I've also rebuilt the main gun. When I was sanding it to remove the seam/join between the two halves i discovered I'd managed to sand the fume extractor to an oval shape! So it was a case of out with the Plastruct tubing and the razor saw... And I've finally managed to finish the holding straps on the fuel drums... Down side is the tensioners have come out a bit 'wonky' Would they have been perfectly aligned or some what 'skew whif' on the real deal? Thanks for looking, feedback welcome as always. Al
  10. Bet you thought you snuck that post through unnoticed didn't you! Ask and you shall receive...encouragement for more insanity that is http://www.historexagents.com/shop/hxproductdetail.php?ProductCode=GRAN162 There are four different sizes in a pack, 1.5 mm, 2.5 mm, 3.5 mm and 4.5 mm across. you get 12 each of the 1.5 and 2.5 mm ones and 9 each of the 3.5 and 4.5mm Go on, you know you should
  11. Lovely work on the crew Dan. Black is one of the hardest colours to shade and highlight effectively. looking forward to what you do with the bike, based on what you've already done with PE on this build I'm looking for individual links in the chain and separate brake blocks! Al
  12. Hi Steve, Great progress so far, nice recovery on the NACA ducts on the nose. I'm interested in how the HGW rivets work out as I have some put away for a couple of future builds. Crisp seems to be having success with the HGW rivets on his Sea King build (not intended as any form of criticism/comparison to/of your work I hasten to add), it might be worth finding out how he goes about the process? Cheers Al
  13. I bought my dad this kit for xmas not long after it came out, and thought it was a bit basic for the price, but it was big compared to his usual 1/72 builds so still seemed like value for money! I like what you are doing with it though, I've always been a fan of a DH twin boom. Geat find on the film, although I wouldn't fancy being the 'unhooker' who had to chase the aircraft down the flight deck to unhook the cable!
  14. I've just had a look at the Reventon and there's no etch, and no mention in the instructions either, not that I'm too worried. I would like the GT40 though.
  15. Hi all, Thought I should drop a little post here for the benefit of those who model in 1/43 or are Lambo or Mustang fans... I was in Morrisons this morning with SWMBO doing the weekly shop and as i walked down the toys isle these two caught my eye: OK I thought, are they worth a dabble? there was a risk that they were a bit basic and crude, no interiors etc, lets face it they were in the cheap toy section of a supermarket! The boxes were well sealed (tape on all four edges) so no chance of having a sneaky peek. However as they were the vast amount of £3.00 each, yes you read that right £3.00 each! I thought what is there to loose so I took a gamble and slipped one of each into the trolley. Were they worth the three quid? Simple answer is; indeed they were Here are a couple of quick 'what's in the box' pics i managed to take of the mustang before lunch... And a close up of the chassis/interior sprue... And the bodyshell... There's also instructions and decals for the stripes, and two metal axles. The mouldings appear to be 'multi finish' e.g. on the interior the floor has a matt texture whereas the molded in rear seats have a glossy texture. The holes in the underside appear to be a bit strange (the two outermost ones are for the screws holding the body on), however I can live with them as it's a part of the car you don't normally see. The Lambo is on a par with this one, the engine top has a gloss finish, with a subtle carbon fibre effect for the rocker covers (all on one molded piece smaller than a postage stamp). These are the only two they had, but it might be worth keeping an eye out for others. I have since done some research and it appears that they were originally molded by Doyusha, and I've seen what appear to be the same kits with slight differences to the boxes for sale on the web for around £7.00 a pop. Verdict... For three quid each they were a bargain Al
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