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    Charlottesville, Virginia, USA

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  1. Cool idea. The whole scene sucks you in, and I like that. I am assuming you enhanced the texture of the ball tank. If so, well done. That thing looks like it could really take a hit. I will say, if the shot did not glance off, but hit it squarely, I would not want to be inside that thing!
  2. Very nice work here.I am sure Ian would be proud of you. Q. Where did that beautiful sketch come from? Is it Ian's?
  3. I have been working on the landscape. I want the look of long-cooled lava field. I built the base from plaster cloth, plaster rock castings and carving plaster. I painted it flat raw sienna, brown vallejo wash, and Bone white drybrush. I'm nowhere close to where I want to be; but making progress. 1. The camel on the plaster and picture frame base 2. Rock castings with paint wash and dry brush. 3. This color is probably a little more accurate 4. Integration of rockcatings with wet plaster base. I used carving plaster and scrapped and dug at it with chisels and dental picks.
  4. I developed my scratch and weathering techniques when doing this piece:
  5. I purchased this kit a while back and decided to take a break from armor modeling and this seemed like the perfect build... heavy armor fighting gear with the ability to hop short distances to engage in battle. Perfect! The model is very nice and the fit is pretty good for an older kit. I upgraded all the armored hydraulic hoses and winged a little extra detail here and there. The figures are from Brick Works (including the dog. Everyone is wearing British Army camo circa 2009 Afghanistan - scrounged old surplus stuff. The Brits are now fighting with the he Earth Independent Provisional Government , Independent Mercenary Army (IMA). After all the devestating wars there are now more women on earth than men and they are the backbone of the New British Expeditionary Force. In this scene we see a discussion being carried on about the battle readiness of one of their armored fighting suits. I used Vallejo acrylics throughout. Here is my scratching technique for this particular model: 1. Prime the model 2. Spray undercoat (in this case Light Rust) - let dry thoroughly 3. Spray 2 coats of AK Chipping Fluid > Let it dry for about 25 minutes 3. Spray UK Light Stone > Let it dry for about 40 minutes 4. Wet brush and apply water to small area 5. Scratch the surface with a wooden tooth pick and a toothbrush (toothbrush works particularly well where you want to peel off more of the surface paint.) 6. Hand paint bare metal areas (scratches and exposed metal). 7. Shoot with glass varnish 8. Apply decals and then "scratch" them up with by painting scratches and tears with a fine brush and bit of sponge. 9. Apply mud, washes, dust, ect. 10. Spray lower parts with a unifying color. 11. Shoot with a coat of flat varnish Note: Not much to say here except that the Brick Works figures are beautiful and so well crafted. Note: Vallejo Metal Airbrush colors used followed by oil wash. The fuel tank is done with careful color layering using a sponge bit (I used one of those green scrunges) I did add some 1/24 fuel line fittings to those lines. Note: Armored hydraulic cables are made using heavy solder wire wrapped with fine solder wire. Made it vary plyable. Note: A Different Angle. Base was scratch built from Evergreen plastic. Concrete is foam block covered with plaster gauze; then coated with a thin screen of sculpting plaster. Cracks and crevices were carved by hand. I painted, washed and dry brushed it til it looked like old concrete. Note: Details, details, details Note: Details, details, detail Note: For a pair of killer blue eyes! Note: Nuff said!
  6. Hi Pete, Thanks for your comments. I am mostly a modern armour and figure modeler. I bought one of the old Nitto kits at a swap years ago. I needed a break from Armour and tried to put together a little dio using the Fireball. I will post the whole set of photos over in completed works later tonight.
  7. This is the Hasegawa 1/20 scale LUM-168. I have been working on it for about 6 months - a very short build for me. I've hit the 75% mark and wanted to get some feedback before I landed this project. It's a very nice kit. The fit is excellent, molding is pretty up there, decals offer a number of variants, and the instructions are great. My only complaint is the universal joints Hasegawa uses to connect all the moving parts. Some of them are difficult to fit. The male plastic parts are oversized to ensure a tight fit; but the ball and socket rubbery part is substantially smaller in some places and you really have to force the parts together. If you need to remove and replace the parts during construction and painting you must be very careful not to apply too much pressure and you can break open a joint or crack plastic somewhere else. This is a work in progress as I only recently started building Ma.K. stuff. I build almost all modern British armor subjects. I decided to do my pieces as British army veterans allied with the the Earth Independent Provisional Government , Independent Mercenary Army (IMA) . I switched out almost all of the armored hydraulic lines with scratchbuilt ones. I wrapped .015 solder around .050 solder. The pilot is wearing early Afghanistan (2008) camo (old surplus stuff) and I have replaced the the male head with a female one. The chipping/scuffing is not finished yet I will continue to post my progress on this piece. Comments and observations are welcome... and appreciated! Fig. 01: Side view. I wanted to give the piece a cobbled together look therefore some parts are painted completely and others are just primed. Fig. 02: 3/4 Front View. Hasegawa gives the modeler 2 canopies. One to use when painting and one to use for the final product. Pretty cool. Fig. 03 Canopy Removed. Just to see the cockpit. Fig. 04 Details and Decals. I made my own "5" decals with Testors clear decal paper. As a note the instructions say leave them in the water for 5 seconds the place them on a damp paper towel. They mean 5 seconds - otherwise the decal will start to disintegrate! I also brushed some Microset on the surface of the model before I ever so carefully slid the decals off the backing into place using a damp paint brush. The instructions fail to mention you should spray the decals with Testors bonder, wait 8 hours; then spray again and wait 24 hours before you apply the decal. (learned that online). One other detail. You can draw your decals with a vector program but should save them as a 600dpi .jpg. Set your printer on the highest quality printing and choose matte photo paper as your paper. Hasegawa's decals are prolific. They are really hard to stop from silvering. I had a bugger of a time.
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