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maybach_man

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Everything posted by maybach_man

  1. I will be there when she arrives at Kemble
  2. WE used to do alot of work on Tom Rylands car... He was the MD of the Bentley owners club and Jet Lube lubricants....
  3. Amazing workmanship..very inspiring..cant wait for the Testarossa😉
  4. Hi Paul. You can get sets of Drills that are more than sufficient for normal plastic work from Screwfix They are code 73065 about £35 for a set of 150 pieces. If you need better then Dormer drill sets are your next step. They do sets in increments of .5 and .1, normally small to 6mm and 6mm to 12mm. If you really need the type of drills that Noel is discussing, a good place is https://www.hswalsh.com/ for all things drilling, grinding and sawing. i buy their very thin circular saw blades. Other suppliers are Tracy tools, Chronos and Squires tool...all on the interweb Cheers Geoff
  5. Hi Great work with the model. Im wondering about the Rivet detail on the hull...as most boats were welded plate construction, so were there lots of rivets showing? As far as colour is concerned, there was experiments with a Black bitumastic covering of the hull that was meant to counter Asdic pings....but i know there was problems with adhesion on some boats that caused more eddy sound than a plain hull.
  6. another great build thread. Any idea why the main bogies pointed down at the front...very unusual..did it have to do with the retraction position? Cheers Geoff
  7. Hi all... When you do your dawings whether 2d or 3d do you do them at actual full size so you can scale them to any size? or do you draw at the scale you will be modelling? Thanks
  8. Just followed the link and all in Polish including a dialogue box that wont let me proceed to see the actual book.. is there an English language link please?
  9. awsome build... there is quite alot of detailed info on one of the Build-thread.com threads regarding an F40 LM
  10. Hi MIke.... Dont go for the miniture multifunction lathe mill..and the rule of thumb is normally think of the sizes you normally machine and get a size bigger at least. Im not sure you will get anything that is in your price range that is any good.
  11. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Landkreuzer_P._1000_Ratte🤨
  12. have you thought about motorizing it?😬
  13. Love the thread....definately no sanity in or near Slough, caravan or otherwise..it must have moved....no forwarding address??
  14. Model looks great... dont know if you reasearch alot...but there is a really good utube video of a Matilda renovation, done by the Tank museum..
  15. Loads of excellent books around.... but probably the 'Panther Project' books one and two..would be what you need for interior colours... let me know what you need...
  16. Hi all..I have got 'normal' plastic sheet, but I'm looking for something a bit more rigid to make a tank body with...any ideas..what do people use?
  17. Thanks all.... i have plenty of the Evergreen type sheets, but they are quite flexable...... G10 seems to be used by RC modellers in the us as far as i can see...although it seems to be quite expensive at about £12 for a 12" x 9"sheet...
  18. Hi All What does everybody use for rigid sheet when scratch building? i've seen some stuff called G10..that is a fibreglass layered sheet......
  19. The photo above is of a broken down Jagdtiger from 3/512 tactical marking Y. It was pictured near Paderbourne on 2 April 1945, it is fitted with crane mounting brackets. On 16 Feb 1945 there was an order released to change the steering units. At that time the 512 deployment was Dollersheim 5 Jagdtigers (chassis no 305050 to 305054) and Linz (army reserve) 6 Jagdtigers (chassis no 305055 to 305060)
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