albergman

Hi Hendie Thanks for the kind words on my craft works but in all honesty you work to a degree of accuracy that I don't! I've said elsewhere I enjoy the challenge of figuring out how I'm going to make something but not too wrapped up in getting perfection ... a worthy goal mind you but at 78 I don't have time for it LOL. Back to the lathes ... yours definitely is a newer model that I recognise by that chuck guard. Mine is the model before it that was being sold off so perhaps you'll have no issues like mine. Mind you I use mine a lot so the rotary dial (it's a potentiometer) gets a lot of workout. Even if I have to replace it a couple of times a year it's probably not that expensive and an easy fix (I did the first one myself). Thanks for the info on the gib strips. There's six in my machine and I've had it right down to the last nut and bolt. If you ever want an excellent tutorial on this very machine look up "Frank Hoose Introduction to the 7x Mini Lathe" on Youtube. He has 6 or 7 videos on every aspect of this lathe that are very helpful and well presented. Lastly, haven't been able to source that quick change tool holder up here (Toronto area) but could probably get one on Amazon. Can I ask how you like it? Does it have the precision you want? Frank

Just read through most of this build and truly impressed!! Wonderful work. The few pictures of your lathe makes me think it's a re-branded version of mine (purchased from Busy Bee in Canada). I've seen many other identical lathes on YouTube but with a variety of brand names. I've only had mine 8 months but already had the rotary speed controller replaced twice and this seems to be a common flaw according to Google. Watch for the first symptoms ... the work takes a bit more time to stop rotating after turning the rotary dial to OFF. Over time it just won't stop turning. Still have another year on my warranty but I'll be concerned if it happens again. I'd be interested to know precisely what you did to the gib strips to make them more effective if you have time. I've honed all the edges of mine and replaced those annoying slotted adjustment screws with Allen headed bolts but I still have some play which translates to chatter sometimes. Cheers Frank

Well done Roy. First class scratch building. You are in a class of your own ... this from an enthusiastic, amateur scratch builder. I've really enjoyed following this build and envied your access to the real thing. Glad to see you encouraging others to have a go too. Frank

AHA!! As simple as that then? Thanks for clarifying it.

Hi all Just been browsing through many of the dioramas that have been submitted and as someone who has never built a diorama I have a question. It seems almost every one of the people in the dioramas has had their clothing painted using a semi-gloss paint or one which gives a faint sheen to the fabric. This always strikes me as unnatural looking and I'm wondering why flat paints aren't used for fabrics? I'm not meaning to be critical of the work displayed there and many of them are outstanding snapshots of moments in time and very imaginatively composed. Just curious. Frank

Thanks Rob and Celt. Glad you like it. Believe me he is ecstatic Jesse! I ran out of my usual modeling material (Renshape) but my neighbour was having a new deck built using those new synthetic decking boards you can buy. It's some kind of composite powder in epoxy I imagine. Anyway, I thought it might be OK for shaping this model and I "borrowed" a few off-cuts. Had no plans to build from so took hundreds (and hundreds) of pictures on board with tape measure ... This sort of stuff ... Here's just a handful images of the build (about 200 available) ... maybe I should do a full progress build someday if anyone finds this useful enough. Screwed and glued them together and off I went ... Loads of Bondo, fillers and scrap materials to get me to the shape. Getting closer ... order more Bondo!! Eventually I can start inside ... Loads of stainless fittings to be hand-made. Learned a lot about silver soldering doing this one. This was fun doing all the railings in stainless (welding) rod. I had to hand make dozens of fittings for the uprights at many different angles. Still better than trying to solder every one. More fittings and a tricky one-piece rail that wrapped around the entire bridge deck ... and had to fasten to the window (under the masking tape). Loved making all the electronics for his bridge. Home stretch ... Frank

Hello again Doc ... hope your voice is back. Is the hull waterproof? It probably is but I think the problem would be centre of gravity ... she may just roll over. As an alternative though I have, by great coincidence, some pics I took of Honey Bear using a free plugin for my photo editing program (PhotoShop Elements) that lets you "immerse" anything/anyone in water!! I took a bunch of images outside in the sunshine one summer day with the forest behind our house as a backdrop. These made wonderful subjects for "immersion" pictures. For example ... here's me "waist deep"!! Pretty effective huh?? Frank

Tidy looking model. Well done. Frank

Matt and Vinnie Thanks for the kind words. It's not as difficult as you might think! Just takes practice and start making small parts for a kit. Frank

Good job you're a Doctor then ... sure hope your voice comes back I never meant to induce any illnesses. Frank

Hi Ozo Just saw your request. i scratch built a Beneteau 51 this year and have drawings available if of any use. Google images have some also and I'm sure you have already looked there. Let me know if I can be of help. Frank Smart

Hi Doc ... not sure what you mean by "have to make it look scale". Is there a build log here I can see? Thanks AD210. Been here for over a year now and have submitted quite a few builds. Presently scratch building a 54 Lancia D50 http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235011053-scratchbuild-of-a-lancia-d50/&page=1 Some of my other builds are here Frank http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234992475-scratch-built-flying-scotsman http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991814-some-artsy-fartsy-wooden-cars/&page=1 http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991630-anyone-for-scratch-built-half-hulls http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234992373-another-scratch-build-lola-t70/ http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991575-billings-dragon-tarted-up/ http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234991611-scratch-built-trojan-sport-fishing-boat http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/235007619-half-hull-of-a-beneteau-51-idylle-sailboat/#comment-2454882 http://www.britmodeller.com/forums/index.php?/topic/234995195-scratch-build-of-beneteau-51-idylle-sailboat-half-hull/#comment-2224292 Frank

Thanks Doc. Yes, only external detail. I made it so long ago that I'd like to have it back so I can upgrade it!! Every model I make usually improves my technique and it becomes a curse that I hate looking at my earliest stuff The powerboat you commented on really taught me how to silver solder and work with stainless steel rod for the first time. His trunk luggage rack is done with piano wire rod and ordinary solder which is now blackening. I'd like to remake that piece especially but he won't hear of it. All the "metal" on this is done using Renshape (same as the body is carved from) then "plated" with adhesive aluminum tape. I'd love to now shape proper door handles, tail light frames and bumpers and polish them. Frank

Hi and thanks Doc. Yes, it really IS satisfying to make something from scratch. Figuring out how and from what I'm going to make a part is fun for me. I only started scratch building 12 or so years ago and I wasn't in the trades (I was a computer geek) so it's just something I learned by doing. As for the fine drills ... I buy these tiny cases of drills locally ($8 in Canada). Made for soft materials so I break a lot using them for aluminum. Maybe one of these other projects of mine will inspire you try a scratchbuild!!! Frank http://www.britmodel...flying-scotsman http://www.britmodel...ilt-triumph-tr6 http://www.britmodel...tsy-wooden-cars http://www.britmodel...uilt-half-hulls http://www.britmodel...rt-fishing-boat http://www.britmodel...build-lola-t70/ http://www.britmodel...agon-tarted-up/

Thank you, thank you. Glad to have some interested modellers along. Today I machined the two front brake drums first. I've made a new, finer cutting tool and was able to cut even thinner cooling fins in the Renshape. I'm not going to put the "notches" across these fins as I'm sure they'd shatter and besides, I see many of the early Lancias had straight fins without cuts ... so there!. Next I assembled the front wheel pieces I've been working on. The front drums are entirely out in the air-stream ... as they should be. I did open some aluminum paint and brushed on a coat. Re-shaped all my tires to a more reasonable (cross-section) profile then pressed a tread into them with the knurling tool. Most of the wheels can now be glued up with their brake drums. I decided I'm going to make another rear tire for one side ... not happy with it. After all that I was just too keen to see all the bits put in place for a photo-op. Gettin' there! OK, from the sublime to the ridiculous ... making a tiny bracket for one side of the windscreen. I had already made a simpler pair but the real ones have a couple of interesting curves in them and I now knew how to make them. This will be a piece of metal that wraps around the glass and is attached then to 2 90 degree brackets on the car body ... I guess I can't use actual pictures from the web so bear with me. I went back to this sheet of metal (I'm calling it spring steel) but it's shiny, thin, hard to bend but can be softened with a flame. Then it becomes nice because it's very thin and malleable and never breaks (so far). Some kind of tin I suppose. First I hammered a larger piece over a piece of aluminum scrap the thickness of the (eventual) glass. Then I delicately shaped it with one of those equally delicate coin-sized grindstones you get for the Dremel. Here it is as I drill a tiny (.4 mm) hole through it ... Next I slide a similar sized pin through the hole and silver solder it in place ... file down the solder gob then polish the whole thing. It will be cut from the larger piece just below the pin. Scrap plexi in place. I had also previously made the 2 90-degree brackets for the body. Here's one with the new bracket. BTW the windshield bracket is 3 mm tall. I just had to take a picture of the mess after making such a tiny bracket ... now I have to make another. Thanks for looking in. Frank

Made a start on the front suspension yesterday. Made the two top A-arms first. Decided to do them in brass rod in one piece and bend that to shape as one continuous piece. Filled the outer angle with silver solder then shaped that to replicate the requisite bracket. The inboard ends still need to be shaped and holes drilled to mount to the car. The stalk of the "Y" gets filed way down to fit into the vertical bracket ... next below. Next came the vertical bracket (kingpin?) that holds the upper and lower A-arms and the steering lever. Cut this out of a scrap of aluminum ... lots of filing, drill 3 holes and polish. The middle hole IS supposed to be above the centre. This all pretty tiny so keep that in mind . These are actually the two upper A-arms shown. The lowers have a different shape. Next came the backing plate for the brake drum ... I've also fabricated the steering arm (?) and the rod/bracket which attach to that. I ran a tiny bolt from the far side of the backing plate through the upright and threaded into the steering bracket. Made a tiny C-shaped bracket from spring steel after removing the temper with heat. Ran another tiny bolt through that to clamp onto the steering arm. The rod has a flattened head to keep it retained inside the C-bracket. Had a go at making an aluminum finned brake drum but, as I expected, my finely shaped tool bit snapped after making a few lovely cuts. One last thing. I finished a front tire to the profile I wanted and put a tread onto the surface using my knurling tool. Then I took a fine cutting tool and cut several cuts into the surface. Applied a coat of flat black and buffed it slightly. I like the effect it has. Convincing enough for me You may have gathered from following my builds that I'm not fanatical about correctness when it comes to things like number of spokes, number/size of holes, rivets etc. I'm much more interested in "the Process". I enjoy thinking about "how am I going to fabricate that?" then doing so. So, bear with me as I make a model that brings me pleasure. At least I usually try to keep the parts in scale whenever possible. Cheers Frank

C/C well, at least you're out on the water. The only sailing I do now is on other people's boats ... the best way!! V/T ... thanks. My tiny shop couldn't accomodate one I'm afraid. I know nothing about mills and I'm just now feeling comfortable with my mini lathe. You have one I presume?

Glad you like my project ... thank you. Every time I see that winch handle (avatar) I want to ask about your yachting interest. We recently sold our Alberg 37 after sailing to the Caribbean and living aboard for several years. Frank

OK ... back again. So, last time I finished (sort of) the rear suspension and the wheels were fabricated (mostly). There remained the nasty project of fabricating the finned brake drums which join the suspension to the wheel. This car has multi-finned drums and they are beyond my capabilities to fabricate to scale and have the requisite number of fins (10). I considered several media to make them ... machined aluminum (beyond my scope), brass sheet, tin cans (yes, really) but decided my Renshape is hard enough to use and could tolerate a half dozen or so fins ... so ... made an ultra fine tool for the lathe that let me scribe 6 or 7 rings around the work. The recesses across the fins was done with a Dremel tool The piece had to have a dish cut into it to let it fit over my existing backing plate ... Then it can be attached (but not permanently) Now the wheel has to be readied for its part in the process. I have the spoke section inserted but the rim needs a false edge to complete it ... like this. It slides into place to make it look like a complete rim ... Now the finned drum can be "attached" Next ... this unit can be offered up to the waiting suspension Repeated the process on the other side so I'm a lot further along at this end anyway. So there ... lots of detailed measurements (and very, very slow, cautious lathe work) to get everything to fit but I'm really happy with how it went together. I'm open to recommendations for finishing the finned pieces to look like aluminum. I'd probably just brush on some aluminum paint but there's probably something better out there?? Next is the front suspension then I get to make a couple more fins ... oh goody. Thanks for looking in. Frank

I used to ride one of these 4 bangers in my younger days. Lovely smooth machine. Will be interested to see what you think of this kit. Might be fun to do up my old machine from it. Good luck. Frank

Got my rear suspension pretty much sorted today. Have to decide whether to make enough of a chassis to attach the forward end of the trailing links. Right now they'll just disappear forward into nothing. I think I'll want a bit of chassis visible in the cockpit eventually so it wouldn't take much to extend that back to pick them up ... stay tuned. All of this is bolted together with tiny bolt salvaged from my old film camera ... yes, it hurts to scrap something like this but what else you gonna do with them?? I don't tap threads for these. I just drill a hole that's barely large enough and keep going in and out as it cuts its own threads in the softer aluminum. Anyway, here it is. The top bar with all the holes isn't supposed to be a continuous piece. I don't know where the two components with the holes are supposed to go ... never see a picture with the boot/trunk open. I just made it one piece for convenience. I'm getting ready to start fabricating the attachment struts that hold the tanks to the body so I set it up in its jig. Placed the wheels around it for a photo-op. Dying to get some paint on it!! I'm leaving the leading and trailing edges of the tanks thicker than they should be till later ... will eventually be the thickness of a sheet of aluminum and that's too fragile while I'm working on it. Cheers Frank

Good morning Had a chance to play with my new toy ... the knurling tool yesterday. For those who have never seen one it's an attachment for a metal lathe used to put those nice grippy surfaces on tool handles. The two wheels with a knurled finish get pushed up against the work piece while the lathe turns. The space between these wheels is variable and that change can produce different patterns. In action ... (the outer wheel is just glued to another blank to get it clear of the chuck). The depth of "tread" in this instance depends on the pressure applied and the duration of the application. I tried it against several scrap Renshape blanks and a couple of urethane castings. Different spacing ... On urethane Urethane gives a finer cut and I must have had the tool at a bit of an angle to the piece. Anyway, various patterns and depths are available but all are just variations of a diamond shape. These aren't really anything like a true tread pattern but for my purposes they're better than a bald tire or straight lines cut circumferentially. The tool is quite cheap ($32 Canadian for my mini lathe) and I'll get good use from it. Frank

Nice work Roy and a fun little project I bet. As a young lad I went with friends to a hillclimb here in Canada and was admiring an AC awaiting its turn on the hill. The owner stepped out and offered me the seat. Couldn't believe my good fortune! I was so impressed with that car, a roadster with a Bristol 6 cyl. Frank

Thanks Roly and Roy for the kind words. I do sometimes ask myself why I'm building a model at all as none of my acquaintances are very interested in my hobby. Of course the answer is it's for myself and gives me something to do and I find it rewarding . .. what else is a 78 year old gonna do? Tire treads .... no trade secret ... just not sure it will pass muster. i bought a knurling tool for my machine lathe and I've run it against a couple of scrap Renshape "tires" and it makes some interesting patterns depending on how long or how hard I use it. I'll take some pictures for you. Don't know if this will have any application for kit cars and a lathe is necessary to use it. Frank

Bit of an update. Got my set of wheels machined and wired. Now just need cleaning up and polishing. The real cars never had shiny wheels ... usually gray painted but after making all this nice stuff in metal I'm not about to cover it in gray paint! MY wheels will be SHINY!! The tires are turned from Renshape and I need to find proper profiles for them. These are the blanks that I'll use and they're "painted" black just from a felt pen for appearances. Got a new tool today that might produce a decent tire tread. Yes, one wheel still needs a knock-off. I've already turned a backing plate for the drum brake and threaded a tiny screw (thanks to my old Minolta film camera) into the end of the tube. If my measurements are correct the wheel should line up and (mostly) cover that plate. I'm not ready to attach the wheel at this point but it will eventually be attached to this plate ... Made the half-shaft for the port side and roughly assembled the rear suspension. Missing the trailing links that will attach at top and bottom of the brass bit. Now you can see the backing plate for the rear brake. I need to make a series of cooling fins/plates to fill the gap to the wheel. This stuff is really tiny and the camera makes it look like it was hacked out with an axe! When the body drops over this it gets mostly hidden but enough will still be seen. More to the point nobody I know is ever interested in the stuff I make so it's likely that the model may never be seen anyway! OK, next I have to repeat all this stuff for the other side then on to the front suspension, cockpit and ... about 600 rivets! Cheers Frank