coolingthunder

Thanks for the comments guys! To anyone debating buying this kit: don't debate, just get it. To be honest, I didn't really crosscheck references in that much detail for this one, and now that you mention it: indeed, seems Magic Factory got the placement wrong! @Toryu, I wouldn't know if it improves over any of the previous options, but having built my fair share of Tamiyas, this one definitely is on par, if not better in some areas. This one also comes with a small fret of PE (that actually adds something) and a nice set of canopy masks, as well as a nice large format color profile of all included options. I haven't built their Corsair so I don't know in this case (and I'm sure it's another one of those shake and bake kits like we are used to), and I am the type "if it looks like a Corsair, it is Corsair". I haven't built the Tamiya Corsair so I can't comment on the accuracy of the cowl flaps. They may seem a bit too long now that you mention it, I don't know if the open version have the same effect. The doors aren't quite perpendicular, but they were also the most fiddly part of the entire build, with no real positive attachment point. The position of the doors is determined by one tiny separate actuator and a hinge on the back of the gear door, which made the whole assembly a bit vague, and I am just happy they are all symmetrical. The rivets indeed are slightly large, but for me that's not too big of an issue (but I know that is very personal and subject of many many debates), but I have found that seems to be something typical of the Chinese manufacturers, and you see it accentuated in the builds done by the chinese community... I guess they cater to their local audience first! It does seem to be MF's first foray into airplanes, their next subject is a 1/48 Skyhawk where I think Hasegawa is more or less the only one that offers something? It's perhaps yet another Corsair, but most other offerings out there are based on tooling that is older than I am (which arguably is not that old yet but still early 90s). Looking at the other Chinese brands, I am sure eventually they will come out with something more "daring". At least it beats Kotares' yet another spitfire and yet another BF-109...

Think I must have been one of the first in Europe to get my hands on it, I brought it straight from China last November. Built absolutely perfectly, no remarks except maybe the fiddly attachment of gear doors, both tail and mains. Other than that, an absolute 10/10. Watch it Tamiya, the Chinese are going to eat your lunch! Still have the second kit (it was a 2-for-1, you the get the -1A and the -2), but that one has to be built with wings extended, as there are only parts for one wing fold. Quite ingenious and the fit of the wings over the "spars" is very secure and easy to remove should the need arise for shows. I paid around 20EUR for this combo, that's essentially nothing for the quality you get. This was my first Sea Blue scheme, in preparation to the Airfix Hellcat I wanted to give this one a try first. The base is a resin print I did and subsequently painted and weathered. A Clarktor (a tug) is in the printing process and will be added alongside the Corsair at a later date.

7016 seems closer to what I had in my head! In the end I'm no real stickler for the exact color match, sometimes we spend hours researching our exact color, after which we start applying filters, washes, shading and weathering 😅 7016 is a good "match" for what I was envisioning, I think this along with 7021 might be pretty useful to have some differences in shades on the model.

I will be doing the V2 with a splinter camo (I think, not quite sure yet) but the Hanomag can be done in the dark grey/blue tint according to the instructions. I always liked the look of this color. There seems to be some debate on what it should be, apparently in real life it was quite dark but popular media (games and movies) portray it as being almost dark blue sometimes.

Hi! Usually I build airplanes, so armor isn't something I know a ton about. I have a Takom V2 with the tractor, and I want to build it with the blue grey tint. I am used to working with MRP, so I bought their RAL7021, but that seems to be super dark when I gave it a test on my paint mule, with no hint of blue like you see with for example Tamiya German Grey. What process do you guys use for this type of finish? Perhaps some modulation with some lighter colors, or a white base? Thanks!

Hi all, More of an aviation modeller but have a few car kits in the stash of models that interested me. I find the chrome parts give off too much of a toy look, just doesn't look right to my eye. What do you guys to do this? I have some chrome foil, but it's not cheap and doesn't look too easy to apply. Thanks!

Hi all, Have started with my Tamiya Famo, after it lingered for years in my stash. Work has progressed pretty quickly, and I am now starting the detailing. However, I have never done an armoured (even though this one wasn't armoured) vehicle and as such have no experience with painting tracks. The tracks are plastic separate links. I have been doing some reading but would still like some more input. So far I have assembled the tracks (all 94 separate bits!) and put them in primer black. Where do I go from here? I was thinking something like a dark steel color (either Alclad or Vallejo metals, I have both), a dry brush with aluminum to highlight details on the edges and such, and I have a few different washes (dark brown and a specific track wash is due to arrive next week) along with dark brown and sand/light sand pigments. I don't want to go too heavy on the weathering either. Does this sound sensible?

Hi folks I'm looking for a figure of a painter (as in, a house painter, or a figure holding a brush or something) in 1/24, as part of a gift for someone. Unfortunately I can't seem to find one. Anybody here able to help, or who can point me to one? Thanks!

See, I have experienced this too. The white primer dries very grainy, leaving what feel like sand grains all over. The grey goes on nicely, and sprays very good IMHO, but always feels soft or whatever and yes sanding it is very hard, and often it will just flake off. Seeing other people have good results using other primers, think I will start doing the same. Time to order grey and white primer! I love the black primer from Mr paint (the Czech stuff) but I have noticed that a black undercoat also really darkens the final color, more so than other paints. I guess then maybe the primer isn't the best? Because if it peels it's always down to the bare plastic, so it seems like it just clings to it rather than kinda etching in like other primers do. Interesting!

Hi folks, me again... As I was just doing the body on an Alpine, I accidentally produced a runner on a door of the body. I think I thinned the 2K (the Zero stuff) a tad too much, and I didn't move the airbrush fast enough when doing the wet coat. Anyway, what's done is done, and as such I will have to fix this little mistake. I don't want to chuck the entire body in brake fluid and start from scratch, so what can I do? I was thinking very fine grit sandpaper (2000+?) and sand away the runner, and then polish the affected area? Luckily this will be my first attempt at weathering as well, so if it not 100 percent perfect, that should get hidden under a layer of dust pigments or whatever I will end up using. '

Looks like I opened quite the can of worms here! I was indeed planning on basing myself on the spitfire drawing on the tail of the F-16, and the drawing 349 has up on Facebook (as I assume especially the painting on the F-16 would have been referenced with the archives they presumably keep somewhere?) @corsaircorp, I will be PM'ing you! thanks already! P.S.: thanks all for your helpful and valuable input! I do aprreciate it a lot!

http://img1.pictaero.com/2019/06/28/s/301922.jpg This how a current Spitfire here in Belgium has been done. I'd guess 30 inch? Thanks for the very clear explanation! I am more than proficient with computers, I just don't have any experience working with Illustrator/Photoshop, and no access to a mask cutter anyway. I did think about printing my own decals on an inkjet printer but I seem to have found differing opinions on how good they work, and, as I said before, no experience with graphic programs. Unfortunately I'm not the most creative of types anyway 😅 I have found the Hannants/Xtradecal sheets, but can't find a shop nearby that stocks them online, and the shipping rates for a decal sheet are absolutely outrageous from them...

Hmm seems the Shyart is sold out unfortunately... Would have been perfect, as their sheets contained all letters, I could have just used the GE-S and used the serials to recreate the serial... How would I go about making own? Or is there somebody who would be able to help me with that here? 😁

I have found most of what I need in regards to what she looked like on the Facebook page of the current 349 sqn, so that shouldn't be an issue. With regards to the Eduard kit, is it Spitfire LF Mk. IXc 1/48, number 84151?

Hi all, I am looking to build Joseph "Jeff" Moureau's Spitfire, preferably in 1/48 or larger. After some sleuthing I have managed to find following information: The plane he flew on D-Day and shot down a german Ju-88 with, was a Spitfire LF IX Mk.153 of the 349 squadron (which still exists today in the BAF!), Code GE-S. Could anybody point me in the direction for a kit that depicts this plane and does anybody know where and if decals of this plane exist? If not, is there maybe a manufacturer that does sheets of the code letters and such, or anybody who might be able to help? Thanks!

Hi, Thanks for the replies so far guys. I am no longer really inexperienced but I don't want to waste time cursing at a crappy kit while I have a few nice Tamiya kits waiting in my stash haha. I had been looking at getting their Yak-23DC, according to Scalemates that's a new tooling. I might just give them a try!

Evening all, Just came across this brand at my favorite online shop, up to now have never heard of them. They seem to be related to Modelsvit (have no experience with those either) and the models they have seem to be mostly rather special/forgotten types, making them quite interesting. Before I splurge on one of their kits, does anybody have any experience with them? Build quality and such?

okay, sorry for resurrecting this thread, but I haven't had much time to think about this. After doing some searching, it seems opinions are quite divided, but I think I have found a relatively safe solution. I have found some brushless AC extractor motors, which seems to me should be safe? Brushless motors shouldn't really produce sparks, and most people who use home-built solutions just say to make sure to switch the fan on before you start spraying so there is not yet a build-up of fumes present which could be hazardous.

I use Zero Paints primers (preferably the grey, but if spraying a light color I spray white primer, but I don't like the white primer on account of it leaving granules all over the model) The primer and basecoat I usually leave for about a day or so, sometimes a bit more depending on the time I have, but I figured that would be fine as according to their site the stuff dries very fast... I will give the wet and dry a go, I haven't tried that yet, always thought I would end up with swirl marks if I did that... I have most grains from 400 all the way to 3000, guess I'll give 1200 or 1500 a try for the next model. Finger prints are a good remark, I usually wear latex gloves when doing models (usually I do planes, have only completed 2 car models so far), but I ran out and with the current situation gloves are either impossible to find or they ask exorbitant prices for them... That might be a cause as well, as it is a problem when spraying real cars too. I have already sanded one model with 1500 grit just now, let's see if that is a solution to my problem. Thanks!

Hi all, I have been using Zero Paints for a few models (their entire system from primer all the way to the 2K clearcoat) and have been really liking it. It sprays beautifully and without much of an issue, save for some operator error... However, I am now starting some more complex color schemes (just some basic striping or two-tone color schemes) but the paint ALWAYS lifts off somewhere, all the way down to the bare plastic... Which means sanding down the entire panel or if it is really bad stripping the paint off and starting from scratch... What am I doing wrong? I use Tamiya tape or the white Nitto tape for curved surfaces, and I first stick it on my hand or a surface a few times to reduce the power of the adhesive, but even then it always just lifts straight off... Does anybody else have this issue? I spray with a 0.4mm needle at about 30psi (which seems like a good middleground between the 15-40psi it says on the bottle) starting with a mist coat or 2 and then slowly building it up as per their instructions.

Hi Paul, thanks for the reply. Already had a good mask (3M full face with ABEK10 filters and additional particulate filters) but was in a well enough ventilated room before. Was hoping maybe I could find a Benchvent alternative for a bit cheaper (moving is expensive!), But if nothing else I will have to scrounge up the cash for it. Better safe than sorry and all that.

Hi all, Moving to a new place soon, will finally have my own basement corner with a bench and a ventilation hole right above where I can insert a hose from a spray booth. I spray the good stuff (the kind that makes your lungs shrivel at the mere thought of inhaling it), but apparently not all spray booths can handle the fumes these products give off (i.e. they can go boom or whoosh). I spray Mr. Paint, Zero Paints, 2K lacquer and also use rattlecan varnish, along with Tamiya and Hunze acrylics. Does anybody have recommendations for me that don't cost an arm and a leg? Had a look at a Benchvent, but those are quite steeply priced, and the budget doesn't quite stretch there at the moment. DIY is also an option, I am a bit handy and have basic hand tools and a Dremel at my disposal.

Yeah for exterior colors I use color matched Zero Paint, and also have big assortment of Gunze, Alclad, Vallejo and MR. Paint, but satin black is satin black I guess. Most interior stuff on the cars I am building also was black, so I need to come up with something. I will give the black and satin varnish a shot, I just found my sacrificial car body back, so it can be my test subject once more.

Hi all, I am building a few car kits, (mostly Tamiya) and they almost all call for an X-18 interior and a whole host of other parts. However due to the current situation, I can't run to the shop to pick some up, and most online retailers seem to be in short supply around here. However, I do have a lot of flat black, and satin varnish. Could I get away with that combo rather than X-18? Thanks!

So, I am working on a Tamiya Mercedes CLK-GTR, and have gotten the idea in my head to do some weathering to it. Nothing too heavy, just dirty it up a bit like it just drove a stint on the track. I have found plenty of stuff for rally cars, but that is wayyyyyyyyyyy too strong. I just want to dirty the nose with bugs, asphalt and rubber, same goes for the area just behind the wheels (where I would expect to be a buildup of brake dust and rubber bits) Anybody have any good leads I could follow here?