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wildman's Achievements


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  1. I use the vallejo airbrush thinners to thin mine out for both brush and airbrush application. Seems to work ok and haven't had any issues. With regards to yellowing, can't confirm or deny as the oldest model I have that is varnished with this stuff is only 6 months and it's still in pristine condition
  2. thanks there will be an order for an infinity 0.15 coming your way very soon
  3. I have got an evolution silverline and I am thinking about relegating it to being my primer / basecoat / varnish brush and was going to get myself an infinity CR plus for all my detail work. The question I have though are the paint cups, needles / nozzles etc from the silverline compatible with the infinity ? I have got a not of spares / extras for the silverline so was hoping I could reuse them if I got an infinity ?
  4. Picked these 2 figures up a while ago and forgot they were in the drawer of things to do. They are both the Citadel resin finecast models which replaced the pewter style ones GW used to make. If I am honest those resin models were a terrible experience, the amount of flash and warping was insane. Sgt Telion had microbubbles all over the place that needed filling. Librarian Tigurius staff was has bent as a rainbow and still looks decidedly kinked even after trying the resin in hot water trick to try and unbend it. For around a tenner each I would have expected much better quality. None the less I persevered and got them painted. First up is Chief Librarian Tigurius - he is a HQ model that can be used as the leader of your army. Tigurius 1 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Tigurius 4 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Tigurius 2 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Next is Sgt Telion - he is basically a pimped out scout and can only be assigned to a scout group or used solo Telion 1 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Telion 2 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Telion 3 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr
  5. Haven't done any warhammer / gamesworkshop for about 20 odd years. However recently I decided I wanted to try myhand at painting miniatures again. This was the free model from the September edition of white dwarf. I also picked up a start collecting spacemarines box and a couple of vehicle which I will be knocking together over the next few months. Here is my finished slaughterpriest. The base is suppose to represent a lava stream, chaos and lava seemed a good combo. I modeled that from scracth using a plain round 40mm gamesworkshop base. Model is pinned to the base using paperclip pins superglued into drilled holes. For my first outing back into warhammer I am overall happy with the result. Painting was done mostly with vallejo game colour paints and a few citadel ones where I couldn't get the colour I was looking for out of vallejo. Slaughter Priest 6 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Slaughter Priest 5 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Slaughter Priest 4 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Slaughter Priest 3 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Slaughter Priest 2 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr Slaughter Priest 1 by OCUK Wildman, on Flickr
  6. I have finally given up on humbrol clear and it is relegated for canopy and clear part dipping only. I switched over to the vallejo gloss varnish and it gives such a beautiful high shine, smooth non crazed finish. Humbrol have done a really terrible job with thier varnishes in general. The Acrylic Matt and Satin version of clear leave a frosty residue, clear goes craze mental, the enamel based gloss cote, matt cote ans satin cote seem to never dry. Only jesus knows what their formulation guys have been doing. it's a shame because my LHS has the full humbrol range so it was convenient
  7. crackle effect was done using a very heavy coar of viva decor crackle paint in white. Once that dried I used a mixture of PVA and cork chippings to create the rocky textures in the front and back. Colours used were iraqi sand, pale sand, some vallejo sand texture paint, agrax earthshade, seraphim seppia, and humbrol sand wash. Appart from the base coat everything else was done using dry brushing to try and build up different layers and shades.
  8. The mould lines and attachment points were generally pretty good. The way bandai moulded the sprue means that you are never actually cutting on the seam line itself as the connection to the sprue of the part is done on the inside edge as opposed to the joining line where 2 parts fit together. Overall the parts fit together really well. For the next it I might use glue though simply to ensure that when the parts are flush they stay that way. e.g when I did the weathering I sepparated the legs, head and arsm from the torso and the torso then split into top and bottom. However while doing this some of the fiddly bits alwasy ended up getting accidently pulled out e.g the screw fittings and the rear of the crotch plate etc. However the kit itself is very well engineered. You can strip all the plating and do a custom paint job., i think there was a video series on you tube by some geeser called helgan 35 who did this. However i think with a decent gloss coat, weathering and a satin finish the OTB paint plating job is ok. For the black parts in the torso and the wiring I would advise that you paint the moulded plastic rather than use the decals as the decals were a bit meh and painting the wiring looks a lot better
  9. Finally got my hands on a load of the star wars bandai models. So this is the first installment, I have the R2D2 / R5 kit, Bobba fett and the Millenium Falcon to do at some point also. Started with C3PO as it was the first one to arrive in the post Tried to create him as he would appear after being captured by the Jawas and Tatooine so there is a lot of heavy weathering / oil staining going on and tried my best to get a dried desert style base (not overly pleased with the base though as it's not sandy enough really) Weathering was done with a winsor and newton oils, used a 50:50 blend of paynes grey and burnt umber and the oil stains around the chest piece were created with Humbrol gloss oil stain enamel wash. All sealed with a coat of winsor and newton sating varnish. The kit itself is a snapfit that came precoloured however I repainted all the wiring in the torso as the decals were awful. COuld probably have done with glueing the parts together which is something I think i will 100% do on the other bandai kits I have got. C3PO - 1 C3PO - 2 C3PO - 3 C3PO - 4 C3PO - 5 C3PO - 6
  10. I use the Vallejo polyurethane primer via an airbrush. Doesn't really stink the place up and provides a pretty good base to start your paint jobs on.
  11. I have finally given up on trying to get hold of the Mig starship filth oil and after some reading saw that you can effectively home brew your own using a mix of burnt umber and paynes grey oils. So I went off to my local store and picked up Winsor and Newtown tubes of each but then when I got home noticed they are from the artisan range which can actually be cleaned and mixed with water or a special artisan medium rather than the traditional linseed oil. So now I am not sure if they will work in the same way as normal oils ? Does anyone have any experience of water soluble oils ? I assume that the reason you can use them as these washes is the fact that they have long drying times so you can effectively slap it on really thick and then with a cloth wipe it off so that the wash/paint only stays in the recesses / areas where you want the highlights. From reading up on these artisan water soluble oils they would appear to share the same properties as traditional linseed based oils in that they still have protracted drying times. So would it then be safe to assume they would work in exactly the same way if I made up an oil wash, coated the model and then used a cloth to wipe off excess. Guess I am looking for some reassurance on this before I start slapping it down on my C3PO, R2 and BSG models later this month
  12. I use the Hycote grey XUK612 Plastic Primer Aerosol Spray. It goes on really well and once you give it time to properly dry and cure overnight it's pretty hardy/ I have used Tamiya masking tape / foil / white tac etc over it when masking up or holding small bits on when gluing and it has no effect on the primer coat at all
  13. was in margate couple weeks back so swung into the Hornby visitor centre and they had a factory clearance sale, picked this kit up for 3 quid !!! got a few other bits aswell for not more than a few quid !!! So here is the Cromwell IV Tank. Cromwell Tank 1 by Javier, on Flickr Cromwell Tank 2 by Javier, on Flickr Cromwell Tank 3 by Javier, on Flickr Cromwell Tank 4 by Javier, on Flickr Cromwell Tank 5 by Javier, on Flickr
  14. Judging from the amount of flashing on the parts I guess this was made with some very old tooling at Airfix. It did all fit together pretty well apart from the undercarriage. Put together a quick base using clay and static grass just to add some interest.
  15. I initially had the same problem when I was trying to airbrush humbrol acrylics. Here is what I did to fix the problem. FYI I used the H&S ultra also. 1. Changed from the 0.2 to the 0.4 needle set ( I got the 2 in 1 so it came with both) 2. Purchased some Winsor and Newton retarder - http://www.winsornewton.com/uk/shop/oils-solvents-mediums-and-varnishes/acrylic-colour/mediums/galeria-fluid-retarder-8-45-us-fl-oz-250ml-pot-3040818I use a few drops of this with the humbrol own acrylic thinner and a few drops of W&N flow improver 3. After each session doing a full clean before storing. i.e taking it appart cleaning well, lubing the needle and trigger back up and putting back together. I can do this in around 5 mins now 4. Changed the cap over to this one (the infinity one) it fits the ultra perfectly and allows for easy tip wipes if you get try tip http://www.modellingtools.co.uk/air-cap-04-mm-infinity-126793-3487-p.aspI know it's £18 just for the aircap, but I must say this aircap makes mid spray tip cleaning 1000 times easier. Since doing all this I have not suffered from any of the mind bending frustrations I initially had trying to airbrush humbrol acrylics. Where I use Vallejo i simply use their own brand thinners and their airbrush cleaner and I have never had any issues. I still add a drop of the retarder to help slow the drying times down.
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