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Bish

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About Bish

  • Birthday 11/16/1969

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    Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk

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  1. Thanks guys. I am only annoyed that i can't get any decent figures.
  2. I got the scheme done a few weeks ago. First time doing a wrap around scheme, i found it a bit tricky making sure the masking was right, but i love the result. Here are the final pics of the Harrier. After the decals i kust gave it a light flory was then a mat coat. I used Eduard resin BL755 cluster bombs on the outer pylons. The rest are from the kit. I used a base from Coastal kits. I do like there carrier decks, they are perfect for a flat metal surface. But i am not so keen on these ones are there is no texture. But its the only option for this type of matting. This was used at the FOB set up at San Carlos in May 82. It allowed Harriers and Sea Harriers operating from the carriers to attack Argentinian positions, then re-arm and re-fuel before mounting another attack on route back to the ships. It also meant that aircraft could be on call to provide air support to the ground troops much closer to the front line than operating from sea. The FOB, known as RAF West Wittering to the RAF, was in use from the 2nd of June to the end of hostilities 10 days later. I only found out about this FOB a few years ago, which is a pity as i had been to San Carlos a couple of times when down south. I did cut away the printed grass areas and replace with static grass. Thanks for looking, all comments welcome as always.
  3. I got the Stuka painted with the European scheme. I started masking for the sand before i remembered to get some pics. I then added the desert camo. Some profiles and the kit instructions have the sand right along the side. But photo's don't bear this out. My main referance, Classic Colours Luftwaffe Colours Stua Vol 2, has 3 decent pics of the left side along with a nice profile based on careful study of the photo's. This only shows RLM 79 in 2 patches under the canopy. These patches seem to match the areas where extra armour was fitted to the D-3. But many aircraft, includeing this one, don't have this armour. I am woundering if the ground crews may have removed it and patched it up with the 79. The kit instructions don't match what little can be seen of the top of the left wing. So i went with a combination of the photo's, instructions and guess work. There is no top down image of the tail, but there does seem to be any 79 there so i left that. The photo's do show the 79 is well worn on the wing. So i replicated that (first time doing weathering like this on an aircraft) by dry brushing the enamel paints and then useing 502 oil paint, there German Orchre is quite a close match. I'm quite pleased with how its looking. I also added the white tail band. I left this for a couple of days then polished some rough areas and seal before adding the decals. I got the Stuka wrapped up this week. After some light weathering with Flory wash and exhaust staining it got the mat coat. I am very pleased with how the worn look to the sand paint came out. The instructions said to paint the spinner sand but of course it should be blue. And i used some AM decals for the wheel spats as the kit ones were white, and of course they should also be blue. The bomb load are Kora resin bombs. I was inspired by a photo of a banking D-5 on the Russian from from one of my books. It had this bomb load, SC250's with fuze extender's and the bombs were a mix of green and blue. I had to paint the white on the antenna mast as there are no decals for this. And then onto its base with 4 figures and a Kubel. Thanks for looking. All comments welcome.
  4. I thought that, but last time i checked Poland was in the EU and is further away from the UK than Germany. Sockelshop is the German site i looked at, used to order from them quite a bit, but not now.
  5. Maybe, but that should be easier for them to give the option of a standard as well, as Academy did. We can hope.
  6. Really nice work there, she is looking great. I'm another who hopes they re-box it as a standard Warrior. I do like the Acadeny kit, other than the wheel stations on the right side its pretty accurate. But it is hard to get and a newer kit would be very welcome.
  7. You should try ordering to the UK from France or Germany. £20 postage for a set of 72nd resin Stuka exhausts from Germany. Less than 20 all in from Poland.
  8. I am getting ready to start the Cyber Hobby Sea King HC.4. There is no mention of what colour to paint the inside. I know the Airfix kit says light grey, but does anyone know the correct BS code for the grey used. It will be in Falklands war scheme. Also, the kit come with a .50Cal MG. Am i right in thinking this is incorrect and it should be an GPMG. Thanks.
  9. I did ye. But i'm afraid i'm just a humble GRUNT so half of it went over my head. I just know what looks right and what doesn't to my eye. And that doesn't mean every build looks the same, in fact i often find with those who use these lighting efefcts, thats exactly what they get, build after build that looks exactly the same. And each to their own.
  10. IMHO, it comes down to whether you want artistic or realistic. Of the 3 example you listed i have only heard of modulation, but i am guessing the principles are the same. I don't think it should be contraversal, we should all be able to finish our models as we wish. I only take issue with those (usually the ones trying to sell the products) who push these ideas as realistic. While i and i think most modellers have no issue with adding shadeing to recessed panel line, i think where the problem lies is with the idea that panels look lighter in the middle than they do at the edge. I don't do that and i have found that most guys who, like myself, have first hand experiance with the real thing don't either. My only tip would be to decide what type of finish you want and practice different ones until you are happy. Took me 4 years of trial and error before i felt i was able to get the full range of weathering finish to fit the scene i was doing. But one thoguht for you if you do want the realistic approach. You have put this in the WW2 section, and most armour in WW2 didn't last to long before it was taken out or replaced. I drove the same Warruior FV 511 for 6 years. It did 2 tours in Iraq, 12 months on salisbury plain on and off, and it certainly was not modulated and there was not much chipping on it eitehr.
  11. Thank you. I do try and put that little extra effort in when it comes to Stuka's.
  12. Thanks guys. I did do some more reading and found info of what seemed like the Vinten pod, so i will be adding that. thanks. No, i will leave the fin, i am happy enough how it is.
  13. Satrted this one at the start of the year along side the Harrier. This is 72nd Stuka no 8. My 4th Fujimi build and second of their D's. This is the kit, i am doing the subject on the box art, S7+AA. The instructions say it a D-1, but the photo's clearly show the thicker armoured pilots windscreen of a D-3. I'm useing an Eduard PE set along with a few other AM parts. The Aires resin pit designed for the Academy kit will fit in this, as i found out when i built a D-5, but as i had the Eduard set anyway, figured i would use it. The PE set is missing some detail thats in the resin one, but i'll use some parts from the spares box to fill it out. I got the PE parts fitted painted and dry brushed. Also drilled out the hole and fitted a quickboost resin compass. I also got the wings together, cut out the molded landing light and fitted the guns. There are 2 options for the wing guns in the kit. One with exposed barrel tips for the D-1 and another with extended fairing and covered opening for the D-3. But photo's show that both variants could have either. I am guessing the covered fairings are to stop dirt getting in to the barrels on take off, and the covers do seem to be fited more often to aircraft in dusty enviroments, such as the desert. The photo's of the aircrfat i am doing are not that clear, but it does look more like the covered option so thats what i fitted. Got most of the major parts fitted to the Stuka including fitting a quickboost compass and getting the wings on once the fuselage was together. No major fit issues as i expected. Then got the canopy on and all the sub assemblies ready. As you can see i am leaving the undercarrage off. I've also learnt my lesson when it comes to adding actuators and airelon balances to soon, have had to scratch more of those than i care to remember, so i am painting them seperatly. It got a primer coat yesterday followed by the undersides being painted, so will be able to mask off in a day or so.
  14. The Harrier has come along nicely. Cockpit fitted and fuselage together. There was one issue, with the forward undercarrage bay. This is in 2 halves with each being fitted to the intakes and then into each side of the fuselage before thats put together. But i have a gap of about 2mm and i can't see where the issue is, everything else has fitted fine. It won't be visible once on the base but still a bit annoying. Got all the last bits added including PE. I found out that this aircraft was one of 4 GR.3's fitted with Blue Eric ECM which was fitted into one of the Aden cannon pobs. So a little bit of scratch building was needed for this though i didn't have much in the way of images to go off, i'm pretty happy with it. Eveything in the box has been left off to paint. Its now had a primer and the grey coat added. So should be able to mask in a day or so.
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