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Woodstock74

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About Woodstock74

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    New Member
  • Birthday 08/01/1974

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    https://www.shapeways.com/shops/mulsannescorner

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Charlotte, North Carolina, United States

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  1. Oz Mods has a 1/350 Oberon coming out: http://www.ozmods-kits.com/ship-kits-1350
  2. Yes, good points. I've drawn the R4360 to be componentized with 28 individual cylinders, engine block, gearbox, and supercharger housing all separate, which gives me many more options for orienting.
  3. If I was better at it I'd probably be designing into an assembly. But I'm drawing everything within one studio. Just way easier for me that way.
  4. What printer are you using? I've successfully printed to .2 mm wall thickness on the Anycubic and pretty sure I could go smaller. I haven't even attempted to push it as I port a lot up onto Shapeways and .3 mm is thinnest they'll accept, so I tend to design everything to their design guides regardless of where I print it. That being said, I drew the pushrods on the R4360 I'm drawing to .6 mm, again, to accommodate Shapeways (they differentiate between supported and unsupported, .6 mm being the thinnest they'll accept to unsupported, .3 mm for supported):
  5. Still plugging away. I've decided I won't be doing the cooling ducting/shrouding, but will be doing the inlet and exhaust plumbing. I printed the cowling and it came out ok and some modification will result (it seemed to need a bit of reinforcement). So I still have to sort the exhaust plumbing, detail the supercharger housing, and then work on the integration to the F2G kit. That's going to take some back and forth tinkering as I'll have to work out the easiest way to execute it to keep the modeler from jumping through hoops and guessing what I intended.
  6. So thinking something like this:
  7. While I don't necessarily want to take on additional design considerations or make promises...I'm at the right point to consider something like splitting the cowling such that you can display it open. That might be a pretty cool feature. Just with the tight confines of the inside of the cowling to the engine itself, and the need to add reinforcement the minute I create a removable panel, not sure what the results will be in 1/48. And I still need to resolve what to do about the engine exhaust and cooling baffling...those two will be major headaches for me in general (I'm very much a CAD nov
  8. Not sure, the price keeps going up! I really won't have a solid idea until I sprue everything up. For now I'm only checking that it passes their initial design review that looks at minimum sections, and a few other parameters, and we're good there. At this stage the pricing info it puts out is meaningless.
  9. More progress. Still tons of detailing needed for the supercharger housing. Started to look at kit integration. First thing I checked was if the engine as I've drawn would fit in the kit cowling as I really didn't want to change anything...it was going to be too close for comfort, so I sketched up a new cowling and added a bit of detail. This way I was able to thin the cowling's wall thickness, on the kit it was around 1.2 mm thick, and I drew this one to .6 mm, thus gaining around 1.2 mm total ID. So that will eliminate any issues there. Next I'll have to figure out how the
  10. Multi-piece assembly for sure. Right now the thinking is...cylinders...all 28, separate, engine block as one unit, and the gearbox and supercharger housing both separate. That way everything is easier to paint. I'll also draw up an engine stand, so you can display it by itself if you want. This IS NOT a faithful dimensional reproduction (I haven't a single drawing--I do have, however, two 1/48 scale representations: the one that comes with the kit and the Engines & Things engine). I'm drawing something that is close dimensionally but that also fits into the cowling on the F2G kit. I
  11. Still a ways to go, lots of detail to add, especially to the rear supercharger housing.
  12. I'm getting bogged down in the details a bit, and that starts to work on the motivation. It's always a juggle between what's reasonable at, in this case, 1/48 scale, and what isn't. And I always want to put as much as possible in it. But it's time consuming. I'm also starting to realize; as it's intended for the Accurate Miniatures/Special Hobby Corsair F2G, I need to insure it will fit into the cowling! And I still need to determine what to do about the exhausts and cooling baffling, whether or not to include it. The R4360 that comes with the kit has minimal detail. I also have Engines
  13. Just wanted to make introductions and to draw everyone's attention to some of my products. I'm Mike, I'm based in the US, and I like to (CAD) draw random stuff up and have it printed. I always have too many projects, I rarely build (these days--constantly hoping to change that), I avidly collect, and I absolutely love model making. My interests range from 1/350 submarines, to 1/48 WWII prop fighters, to 1/35 armor, to 1/24 Le Mans/IMSA GTP cars, and a little in between. Anyway, I have a Shapeways store here. My most recent products of interest: 1/48 P-61 radar bay 1/350 HMS
  14. Yes, and telling them the design intent for the hole size so they can spec the material themselves (and so they can open it up, should it print slightly smaller). The only thing I'm unsure of is how useful a 2 mm thick piece of piano wire (or whatever) might be to actually stiffen the part up?
  15. Yes, guess that's what I was describing! A spar out of material that is stiffer than what the wing section was printed in.
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