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Everything posted by caterhamnut

  1. Back to the chassis: I fitted the suspension, front and rear. Nothing much to change on the kit at this point - it is pretty spot on - I tweak the wheel track slightly with the hubs at a later point. The layout and geometry is spot on, and you can actually change the 'set-up' and see the changes if you fiddle with the trailing arms and de-dion tube - I need to video it sometime in the future! I also painted and fitted the diff and the fuel tank.... I added some heat shrink rubber tube on the end of the steering arms to represent the ball joints at the end
  2. Thanks very much S-B. I'm self-teaching Solidworks, having only dabbled through work - and if you look at what I have done so far, it is all 'push/pull' from solids, then extensive use of fillets - so very much at the simple end of the software
  3. Dipstick! Brass and ali tubing for the dipstick tube, and I printed the 'handle' - another tiny part! of course it 'works'.... So that was the main block sorted - the starter motor goes on after the bell housing... You can see I have also started to add some wiring to the block. But the next big bit to model was the air intake manifold. This was going to be a challenge in CAD for me, but managed it - best way to learn a program is a 'real' project! So the end result works, but it is by no means a 'good' CAD model! The splits involved made drawing and printing it more easily. The throttle is made separately and bolted together after painting, as will be the foam air filter. I don't have this part on my car anymore, so had to rely on photos - although I was able to go and measure some bits halfway through the process - ebay and autofactors are good resources for parts pictures by the way... Test print of the whole air intake assembly, to check fit and scale etc Lots of test prints to find the best orientation etc At this point I glued all the bits together and primed one version, just to get a clear overall view, and again, to test fit! I'll have to move the engine mounts in the chassis! Painted the air intake black, and added some variation in terms of blacks for the injectors and fuel rail etc. None of this will ever be seen again once fitted to the engine! Bolting the throttle on... Rivet! Holding the throttle pot on...(visually anyway) Gradually getting a kit of parts... More wiring... The braided hose is actually black elastic cord... I printed some of the rubber hoses as solids for assembly, as the ones between the head and the air intake manifold actually help to hold them together, and bending rubber tube would have added too much strain...same with the ends of the HT leads - I actually printed them already on the distributor cap. So that's where we are at this point! I printed some different scales for 'future projects' - Blue is 1/8th scale, painted is the 1/12 scale, grey is 1/18th for the Kyosho diecast Caterhams, and the tiny one is 1/43rd! That is 10mm across and I printed it whole to test - it would be assembled separately in the same way as the 1/12th - incredible detail being picked out by the printer though... Before the R500's went, I managed to grab a few quick photos...
  4. Hi Jeroen - nope, just different colours, from the same company. There are different types though - hardness etc, clear, flexi..... Every type is different in terms of curing time and sometimes the way they handle detail - including colours!
  5. lol - thank you sir! As someone mentioned in my R500 build diary - it is interesting how the model-making 'scene' has developed over those 17 years (when obviously I stopped for quite a while!) - with the internet changing hugely, availability of parts, knowledge, youtube guides - I have learnt so much from forums like this one - and now resin 3D printing at the hobby level....exciting times!
  6. Engine - so this is the big part! Having scratch built the 2 engines on the R500's out of wood, plastic etc, machined slots in the cam cover etc etc, I wanted to 3D print these. But that meant drawing a k-series up in CAD. I'm self-teaching, so it was a bit daunting - but once you know where the buttons are, an engine block is not actually so complicated... I took measurements from many photos I have of our engine over the years, and measured the engine outside in the car - which due to access is actually pretty difficult - I could measure the cam cover easily, but that was about it - but long story short, I was able to scale the photos once I had a base measurement. Once I had pretty much finished with the CAD and engine build, I had access to a real engine that was not in the car, and measuring this I found I had been pretty damn close. I drew the engine 1:1 (I can scale when I print) and I have split it into the actual parts - so the block consists of 5-6 'layers' (although I printed the middle bits in one lump) I found out that the easiest way to model and build the engine is to do it exactly the same as the real one - so the alternator is attached with a bracket in the same way as 1:1, coil is bolted on the same way, throttle uses 4 bolts etc etc. I had a few parts lying around - like the sump - which I was able to measure properly and then scale others from that. Richards car has the plastic Rover air intake, which was going to be a challenge to draw for me in CAD. I started roughing out the overall shape - main measurements were the height of each layer in the block. Once I got those correct, I added most of the detail in by eye. I printed a VERY rough block to see if the size/scale was going to work, then a slightly more refined version at different stages. I'm learning about the 3D printing as well, and you learn to design the parts to make the printing process - particularly the orientation on the build plate - easier. The large holes are for the resin to drain - I hollowed out the 'real' one later. example of the 3d printer plate layout/slicing - where you add supports etc - I'm learning! Some examples of parts being printed - there were lots of versions, so these photos cover about a months work from now on! I'd do the occasional print with everything 'turned on' in the assembly, just to see the size etc - in the end, every component, like coil, sump, bellhousing etc was made separately. But it was getting there... Here are some screenshots of the complete engine in CAD... I printed a 1/8th scale block - 'just to see' - ummm - 1/8th scale model.... Eventually I got to the point where I was happy with the block - you can see the progression here: Next I made the ancillaries that bolt to the block - alternator, coil, air intake, throttle, cam belt cover, pulley, starter motor etc etc etc I drew up the alternator in three parts - the casting, the black plastic cap at the end and the center coil. This would make the painting easier, and allow open vents etc. I could have made the pulley separate I guess... I added the new parts to a test block to test the fit... Drilling the alternator bracket... There comes a point where you think 'what am I doing modelling this...?!' - in this case, it was when i was drawing up the crank sensor... By far the smallest part I have printed.. (get used to that pen) Adding paint really transforms everything! That crank sensor needed a flywheel - which needed a clutch (which would be hidden by the bellhousing, visible in only a few gaps - but what the hell - in for a penny, in for a pound!! Forgot the gloves... Testing silvers for the block... I used an oil wash to make it look grubby with.....oil! ..and started to paint and add the other parts - here is the coil being bolted in place... Having tried the 1/8th scale, I thought I'd try a 1/43rd one-piece engine, just to see! Tip time! Metallic paint pens (crafts etc - Amazon) - brilliant for different metallic finishes and easier to apply to details! About £10 for loads... Dip stick next....
  7. As on previous models, the detail in the engine bay is a highlight of these models - I made a start on the ECU/battery area. Richards car has a newer heater than the kit, so I referred to photos and drew it up in Solidworks, before printing it off... ....I'll plumb that in later. Next, the ECU and associated electrical relay boxes etc - again, drawn up in CAD and printed... I tweaked the plugs to give me holes, as I intended to 'wire' the boxes for ultimate detail! Once printed I drilled out the holes slightly to help my assembly - you can see 2 broken off drill bits in this photo!! I took an electrical wire apart to get some really thin copper wire, and then painted this in lots of primary colours, so I could add the wiring... This was fiddly - but worth it for the result, IMO! I then took the thinnest heat shrink tube I could find and stuffed the wire into it, before shrinking the tube VERY carefully, and bending the whole lot to suit... ...and the ECU box (now painted) - a LOT of wires! ...small piece of heat shrink, and a piece of elastic thread to look like the wiring loom. Used some ali tube for the ecu supports.
  8. At this point I decided to copy many people who make little pieces of workshop to compliment their photos - and made some chassis trolleys based on the ones we used for our real chassis! Simple plastic tube and I drew up and 3D printed some castors. Result! Engine crane and support next... ...more of that later.
  9. Cheers Codger - the 'whole car' might be an option - I'm getting close to have drawn up most of it! My only thought then is at what point you run in to licensing issues!! ......sshhhhhhh
  10. After finally waving goodbye to my 2xR500 models that I have been carrying around the world for 17 years, I'm on to my next Caterham model - also 'ordered' back in 2002. I have very patient friends! But I'm on a role now, so hopefully this one should only be about 9 years.... This will be a model of a K-series Superlight - so no cage or decals (thanks god) but the same level of detail - in fact probably more after 17 years 'experience'... Here are a few shots of the 'real' car: But in this model I have already made extensive use of my new 3D printer. I have pushed myself with Solidworks, and drawn up the k-series engine entirely - every part drawn up and printed. Have also made a start on ancillaries like ECU etc. This first load of pictures will be a big dump, as I started a month ago but did not do the sensible thing and start the build diary as I went - so this is the catch up... This version of the kit is getting harder to find - it has not been re-issued by Tamiya. I got this one in 2002! I actually end up using less and less of these kits with these builds - but nothing replicates the chassis or ali bodywork, which is superb. Because the engine is different from the BDR in the kit, I have to block off the hole in the bonnet that is for the old-style carbs. Also have to fill the spare wheel carrier bolt hole on this particular car. I fitted the interior/floor ali panels - I'm not 'weathering' the car as such, but added some wear and tear to reduce the shiny ali look. The Tamiya kit comes with an old style heater (about 3 models back I think!) and this model has a newer version - I had to make a new bulkhead surface to cover the larger holes on the kit version. I had started the engine at this point, but once the owner sent me his touch-up paint pot, I primed and sprayed the other aluminium panels, rear wings and nose. The paint is a Ferrari metallic grey, so also needed a clear coat. On this kit, the wings and nose are 'carbon fibre' and these parts come with a 'carbon effect' pattern. It is a little crude, but I am going to keep it for the nose strip and the front wings - I shall 'dull it down' a bit with some Tamiya Smoke paint.
  11. Fantastic - you do yourself a massive disservice mate. It looks superb, and whilst I am sure the effort involved for you was huge, the testament is that it looks so good that none of us would have realized there was any issues at all, simple as that. Whilst it is a 'simple' kit in that it goes together very well, it is probably the hardest to attempt with any 'condition' simply because of those damn screws! lol - they are tiny (AND there are 5-6 different sizes that are JUST different, so I had to check every time I used ONE! The bonnet catches had me almost throwing the damn thing across the room - trying to thread the catch onto the end of the spring was genuinely the single most frustrating part of the whole build - and then I found that my paint was so thick that I had manged to 'close up' the little tab on the bonnet so much it wouldn't work anyway.... You've nailed the classic look perfectly, and I do those wheels - love the red and gold. As has already been mentioned, those first two finished pictures look like a real car...(actually so does the 'build' pic with the front wheels fixed.... So be very justifiably proud of the result - only you can understand the effort needed, but we can all appreciate it. I hope you keep going with more - if you can handle those god-damn tiny screws then I don't see what can hold you back!! You built it at a proper rate as well...mine took 17 years. But remember, it is seeing projects like your Rolls (which I remember from when I first joined this forum - annoyingly photobucket screwed the pictures?) that inspired me to progress with modelling, and showed what could be possible. Cobra next?
  12. I'll add it to the project list!! Many years ago I carved a 'J-Class' Yacht half-hull, using the ships lines plan....that might work! I wonder if one can pick up a set of Silver Arrows bodywork plans....lol
  13. lol - in terms of the models they are my fav bit - simple because you never see them! (bugger to make though)
  14. Based on the glorious 1/12 Tamiya Caterham kit, the only part of the original kit is really just the chassis and body panels (yellow and blue) - just about everything else is scratch built, including 3D printing recently - commissioned by a very patient chap in 2002, lots learnt since! Totally finished now - so on to the pictures! The WIP build can be found here: Thanks for watching! I'll post some photos of the 'source' cars below....to compare!
  15. Beautiful models in the true traditional way of modelling! I am inspired to have a go someday...way too few models of the Silver Arrows...
  16. Love it - surprised one doesn't see more models of the LR's
  17. Finished! I'll post a 'finished' thread in the correct place...
  18. Cheers Doc - very much appreciated. You are correct about modelling progression! The 3D printer opens up so many possibilities. Even the internet has progressed! When I started I had no idea what accessories and detail bits were available - such as carbon decal sheet, tiny nuts and bolts etc - and I have learnt SO much from forums such as this... In terms of the Anycubic - yes, I tend to level my plate with a piece of paper quite regularly, and have very very few issues. If I am sure that I have been able to remove the printed parts from the plate without moving it in any way (hold the plate itself when you scrape parts off, not the bracket/ball joint part) then I have not bothered re-setting and not had any issues.
  19. More exhaust details - added the rivets! I used some graphite from a pencil to add back some of the metallic look in certain areas... I glued the exhaust in at the front end (2-part epoxy this time) in the engine bay - rear exhaust mounts would come later... Of course the second, blue car had a different exhaust mount, with an extra strengthening hanger - it is common for the rear exhaust mount to snap as it hold such a long length of pipe and silencer... The white plate is for behind the drivers seat - brass pipe is exhaust support... Next big job which I had put off was the 4 clear race screens. These are quite scrappy in real life - bent ali strip along the bottom, cut perspex screens. The only way to make these was exactly like the 'real' ones - so cut some acetate sheet, cut some ali sheet and rivet them together (glued) then rivet them to the cars...great! At this point I was trying to be clever with the clear screens - there is a very small lip at the top on the real cars - I figured I could make this by using a section cut from a water bottle - I reckon you could find any canopy, headlight cover or curved window 'somewhere' on some of these curvy bottles...anyway, I found my section - but when I came to cleaning up the edges I discovered that these bottles and laminated - 2 layers! Same thickness (as opposed to the graphic sleeve some use) - and these were separating - so I dumped that idea and went back to flat - the compound curve would have made bending the corners round much more difficult, so all ok... More rivets! Scary bit - I painted these cars back in 2003 - no idea what auto paint colour I used, so no touch up later!! I glued them onto the car, but used rivets to provide a mechanical join as well... At this point with the seatbelts and screens done, I could finally glue the cages in place! Another part of the cage that I had almost forgotten about was the drivers side-impact protection... Getting close now - all these little tiny 'quick' details take waaaaay longer than you think they will take...starting with the 28 poppers to fit to the boot covers. I painted plastic rivets and then cut just the heads off to stick directly to the 'rubber' covers. Pins would have also worked, but more of a pain to cut and glue... Some poppers on the scuttles... Noticed a small bracket on the yellow roll cage - so that had to go on, complete with cable ties! Rear number plate and light on the blue car... And front plate on the yellow...I had also added tape to the front and rear lights, as race cars tend to do... And.....FINISHED!!!!!! omg - only taken 17 years!! I'll take some 'proper' finished pictures at the weekend - but well chuffed with the results.
  20. I am modelling these cars 'as-is' so the exhausts need to look like the 'used' ones on the real cars (see last post) - not all polished and shiny - although I would start at that point. I'm winging all this, but it has worked so far! As I was going to use Alclad Chrome, I applied gloss black 'undercoat' - used to make the chrome shine - as it was, I ended up going over most of this, but it gave a suitable shiny 'under' surface - most of the pipes are oxidised and dirty. The cans are aluminium or titanium, so a different colour. The I basically free-formed the build up of colour using Alclad Chrome, duraluminum, pale gold etc etc - I mixed a few together to try and get the correct tint, with the aim of using oils later... I then mixed up some tamiya acylics to airbrush, dry brush and stipple on, to represent the cruddy look of the real pipes... I still need to add some washes and highlights, and I want to try some of that graphite powder to get back some of the metallic look - but overall I am actually quite chuffed how these came out, considering I didn't 'practice' and made it up as I went along!! Not fixed in place (have to make the mounts!!).... Not finished yet - add rivets and wash, more painting - but not bad so far!
  21. Exhausts: I drew up a selection of pipes for the exhaust system - printer had a fit in the first print so I ended up with a solid lump halfway up the pipes - be good for a space craft panel in the future! Re-setting the level of the printer plate solved the issue and I printed the pipes... Lots of trimming and sanding later, I had a 'kit' of parts. A slow process of offering the exhaust up to the car and cutting each pipe to size and length so it fitted through the skin - just as much of a pain as when you fit the 1:1 'real' pipes - believe me! But everything fitted together fairly well... Of course there are two of them. I added some details, such as exhaust clamps and tabs. I wanted to paint everything in one go, rather than add after - on the real exhaust everything is pretty much the same colour... Pretty chuffed how these came out - again the 3D printer saved a lot of work with trying to bend plastic tube - you still have to put the work in drawing the parts, and a lot of finishing... Primed and ready to paint... The holes on one can are for the rivets - fitted after painting.
  22. lol - don't be silly, happy to answer anything and waffle cars all day (or night, as it is 2am here - should really have caught up with you Codger when I was in NYC - oh well, next time! I'll try and answer some questions... a) I sprayed the bodywork of both these cars back in 2003 - before I had an airbrush - using rattle cans from the local car autofactors in the UK, Halfords - matching the colour as close as I could by eye - I mustn't cock anything up and scratch the bodywork now, as I have no idea what colours I selected back then - I think the blue was an Audi colour....can't even remember if I used any clear on top. I need to add some clear over the red decal on the blue nose cone, as the decal is a bit crap (home made - long story) - but I am scared it may go wrong at this late stage! b) Tamiya acrylic, just regular black with some Tamiya clear coat on top - had to do it a few times as kept mucking it up - running, some cracking as I didn't wait long enough to clear coat - I'm a freaking amateur!! c) As you can see below - I am now adding the clunky 'angus' mufflers! Matching the real race cars - each different of course - we use larger cans than 'normal' to keep the noise at a sensible level - trackdays often now have noise limits (98db usually) so as not to offend the people who bought houses on 'Graham Hill Drive' and then complain about the noise! - even with the bigger silencers they are still pretty loud - but not the same noise as the yank V8 - your car must sound incredible with your pipe - I doubt that would pass many regs here!! lol Never seen an exhaust that short on any Caterham - until just recently, where a mate has fitted a Ford Ecoboost with a turbo - turbo means much quieter exhaust, so it looks just like yours... Have to say your car looks amazing.... d) Lower!?! My car has about 2" clearance under the sump - so no lol - you are probably looking at the gap above the front wheels before the wing - this is often because we all fit 13" wheels, the wings are designed to fit over up to 16" wheels, hence the gap - however, the wings are attached to the wishbones, so they move with the wheels - so no difference to ride height etc by lowering the wings (which you can do) You really won't get a better handling car than a well-sorted Caterham. Look - here is me spinning (just an excuse to post a vid ) - you will notice that I have different wings!! e) Depends on the class - all but the top ones all seem to have headlights etc - as they can be driven on the road (and many are) - The yellow car as photographed was road legal - as was the yellow Radical that my friend also had... f) Can't remember lol - probably also an auto can of satin black, as I had no airbrush back then....90% of any paint I now use is Tamiya acrylic though... ...open to any questions mate!!
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