Housesparrow

I already have some wire for ship in 1:350 scale, but I am interested in getting rigging wire for steel wire for 1:48 aircraft. Any product tips?

Wow, this looks nice as a model. More than I could have imagined.

Looks very nice I think. I think this is one of the kit box I have been looking at lots of times, wanting to buy it in my mind, but ending up leaving it because the photos on the box of the finished model doesn't look nearly as nice as OP's model does. Having said that, I think an improvement could be to use filler around the front canopy clear part, so that the shapes on that part is flush with the hull.

I wish there was a new era of WW2 movies where you could get to see these types of tanks (probably CGI), instead of showing just the surplus Sherman's and whatnot.

Interesting! I pretty much got burned out doing 3D modeling, because of how difficult it is to find proper scale drawings. The fun part is that you can model in every nut and bolt if desired. What is the purpose of making this CAD model? 3D printing?

Nice photos!

I've always wanted to build a Hind heli. (In this scale.) Uhm, I am afraid to ask. Is the outside of the cockpit symmetrical on this kit?

It is great seeing the below-deck-deck on the carrier this clearly!

It wouldn't surprise me if ILM/Lucas shot the star destroyer separately, close up, making it look like the sides looking more interesting with a strong perspective effect, and thus not ending up with a "flat" perspective that you would get if you take a photo of something from afar. I am somewhat annoyed that I see a photo of a star destroyer model where the sides are not parallel. I can only hope that the original design has parallel sides. :|

There is no Bandai Tie Bomber kit? *runs off to check*

Looks slick. A bit gray, but the non-usaf marking lightens it up I think.

Lovely color scheme!

Nice to know. (I have the Academy' "Vietnam War" kit)

Hm. So what I did was, simply pouring a little bit of Pledge from the bottle, into a small cup, and then dipping a clear part into that solution. I did not dilute the Pledge when I tried.

Hm, maybe sealing the ink could work, before adding paint, assuming ofc there is something that would work for that.

I aquired a bottle of Pledge Multi Suface wax and I am disappointed to see that I can't just dip clear parts in that stuff and expect anything that looks remotely ok. Wtf? So, one issue is that the excess liquid doesn't fully siphon off onto a paper towel, perhaps because the liquid seem to even shy away from the edge of the clear part, yet still pool closer to the center away from the edges. At this point in time. "Pledge" seem to be my most totally pointless purchase yet.

Inspiring stuff! In my experience, simply knowing one can create something for sure, makes it so much easier to start on something that is seeminly tricky or complicated. With this thread scratch building stuff seem fun.

Looks great! This thread made me realize that a colorful diorama setting, looks even great with a nice model.

Water alone won't properly clean an airbrush when used with acrylics (not once the paint has started to dry). You can mix airbrush cleaner and a little water to try cut down the cost of airbrush-cleaning-liquid a little. You can/should use a brush to better clean the airbrush cup, after having added some cleaner + water if any. I think using a brush is easier than simply trying to wipe the cup clean with a piece of paper towel. For cleaning the nozzle, I use a dental brush thingy, I place a drop of airbrush cleaner on that thing, and stick it into the Iwata self centering nozzle, and I know it won't even reach the nozzle opening, cleaning instead the great cavity of that particular type of nozzle. It seems to me, that my fragile nozzle opening, never really gets dirty. If the nozzle opening ever gets dirty, I like to use paper points size 20 to carefully clean the nozzle opening.

Ah, thanks for having a look at this! I have eyed out an F-4C kit somewhere, but they have to lower the price with $0.5, for me to avoid some serious extra costs with customs and taxes. Hehe, I sent the seller a message, asking for a 0.5 dollar discount explaining the situation. Have not heard from them yet. I promised I'd buy the kit if they lowered the price $0.5.

Question to OP: How do you airbrush on the alclad aqua gloss you used earlier? psi, needle size, any tricks? Heh, I am about to start trying it out myself.

I suppose I could go buy one of those technical pens (for drawing construction drawings on those half transparent sheets of paper), and find out. Yes, I will try this.

Having seen people airbrush a dark color into and around panel lines, to make that area more insteresting, I can't but help if anyone tried out darkening the panel lines using an ink pen of sorts. Have anyone here tried using a marker pen to darken panel lines and had success with that (or failure)? I can imagine that it would be so easy drawing along the panel lines on a model, and dotting each rivet hole.

Ok. Heh, I find it confusing that the parts 7-10 is supposed to be added. I can't help but think that those parts would fill the holes in the large PE part #1 and EP part #2.

I don't understand. How does it make sense to remove plastic here, and then add several smaller PE parts to the air brake part colored in red on the right side here? I do not own this PE set. Presumably the larger air brake PE part is hollowed out here, unsure. This is an image showing the PE parts: