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Housesparrow

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Everything posted by Housesparrow

  1. Btw, I read the pdf file for a particular airbrush gun and I think I learned a few more basic things: Fine-Line Spray 1. Depress the main lever to start air flow. 2. Position the airbrush close to the surface, between 1/16 and 1/2 inch is common. 3. Pull the main lever back slightly to start the flow of paint. Line thickness can be controlled by adjusting the distance between the airbrush and the surface and also by varying the paint flow by manipulating the main lever’s position. Wide-Line and Background Spraying 1. Depress the main lever. 2. Position the airbrush further away from the surface, from 1 to 6 inches is common. 3. Pull the main lever back much farther releasing more paint to cover the bigger area. Increase the distance between the airbrush and painted surface to control the line’s width. Increasing the air pressure will also affect the spray width.
  2. As I get closer to getting into the whole airbrush thing, I think I've learned that I would best acquire an airbrush that offer a wide pattern spray, to get the best wet-in-wet painted surface finish. I have a sneaking suspicion that I won't easily find this kind of airbrush, so I wish to solicit for recommended airbrush guns, that isn't for large projects, but for the regular sized plastic kit (e.g 1:48 aircraft, 1:350 ships). I imagine this kind of airbrush gun would have to be suitable for use with say Vallejo Air products. Those small bottles of paint. Hopefully those Vallejo bottles can also be used for painting the hull of 1:350 scale ships. *unsure how much paint is required for such jobs*
  3. Interesting. Hm, it would seem as if I would ideally make use of a fan pattern airbrush, to avoid a point like pattern with mucho overspray. Wonder where I can find a small cheap one. :|
  4. Q: For something like Vallejo Primer paint, are those pre-thinned for use with airbrush, or must one perhaps use a thinner for the primer?
  5. "The amount of movement in the "push down" it's slight, so trying to adjust air pressure this way will be near impossible." Aha! Thank you! This was very helpful. Cleared up some confusion I had about airbrushing. Would using lower pressure contribute to more rapid nozzle blockage? Unsure what you meant.
  6. I am considering buying a really quiet (oil) Faller Air Boss 170993 compressor, however I don't find much information about it, and I hope someone that have this particular compressor can say something about its performance and offer feedback in general. Other details: 4L oil 21KG 6BAR 30dB 17L/min price = apparently around 300 GBP Example image: http://www.hobby-center.de/product_info.php?products_id=21333 They are selling this thing in my local hobby shop down the street, which is why this model is particularily interesting to me.
  7. @LE BOSCO I am wondering, how do you apply superglue to those tiny parts? Do you just squeeze out a puddle on a piece of paper and then dip the parts into the superglue liquid?
  8. I am wondering what people do when they try glue photo etched railings onto a say 1:350 scale ship model. I understand that one ought to use superglue, but what other tricks are there? I would think that holding the railing with your fingers as the glue is drying is a bad thing, as your fingers might shake, or lose grip of the PE part. I would also think that simply letting go of the PE part just glued on, is a bad idea, as the superglue probably remain liquid for quite some time, having the risk of the PE part tipping over. Perhaps some kind of improv paper part can be added to the railing, to prevent it falling over? Then you could glue the PE railing part on, and just leave it there without having to hold it with your fingers?
  9. I am someone that currently haven't yet started airbrushing, though I am curious to learn: Q1: When using a double action airbrush with a knob that goes down and also backwards, what sort of dictates the amount of paint applied? Only the amount of paint or perhaps both air and paint flow? Q2: I can see how it makes sense to control the amount of paint by pushing the knob backwards, but what about the airflow? It seems unintuitive to try discern the amount of air pushed out by simply pressing the knob downwards. So what do people using an airbrush do, do they tend to press the knob downwards as much as they can before pulling the knob back to have the paint start "flowing"? Q3: In what cases would you perhaps want to use low airflow, medium airflow and high airflow? (various steps of knob depressing)
  10. I have never seen that camo pattern before. Looks really nice.
  11. I noticed today a reference to an upcoming uboat kit today in my local hobby shop. A 1:48 scale type VII uboat. Someone apparently found some pictures of a test model for me in the store on the internet, but I couldn't find it at home after searching for this. Found it listed here though: http://stevenshobby.com/productlisting.aspx?supplierid=5270&categoryid=2 If there is any other info on this kit, I would like to know. I thought it was a little comical when I saw it, with the model being that huge. And I thought the 1:144 scale model of this uboat was big. I guess this model would fit nicely up on a wall somewhere, thus not in a cabinet, nor on a table.
  12. As a kid, it never occurred to me to try wipe off excessive paint from a brush before start cleaning it in a small jar of white spirit. Simply putting the used brush and then sloshing it around in a jar of white spirit usually turned the content of the jar dark, eventually dirtying up the jar really good over time. At some point, I learned to wipe that paint off as good as I could. A quick dip with the brush into a jar of white spirit helps greatly, for wiping off the excessive paing with paper towel (otherwise it won't be easy to wipe off the paint with a paper towel), before carefully cleaning it in a jar of white spirit, twirling the brush against the glass to dislodge the small amount of paint left. Heh, now that I think about it, maybe I am the weird one, having rolled the brush part of a brush against the glass in a jar of white spirit in all these years. I like cleaning the brushes completely, so that paint doesn't get stuck at the inner most part of the brush hairs.
  13. How to prevent a model from oscillating around? Use thicker strings?
  14. Not sure if anyone mentioned the following already, but better use a scalpel to cut loose the PE parts, instead of using the scissor. Using the scissor, will make the entire PE plate bend if cutting into the framing for the PE parts. I bought one such scissor, and I think it might perhaps be entirely useless. I use a Tamiya diamond bladed file (unless I remember it wrong) for filing down the bits of PE that sticks out after cutting them loose from the PE sheet.
  15. After having complained about Revell's practice of having silly boxes for their kits (which opens only at the ends,) as I was about to toss this Trumpeter ship box I realized I should keep it. Had to glue some stuff to make it a box again, but now I have it. Kit boxes with removable lids = great I know you could clean the dust off of a kit *somehow*, but I think it is easier to put away a WIP project into some box with a lid on it, instead of it collecting dust for days. I've noticed that the dust having settled onto a wip model often isn't visible, and only show up the moment you try to paint a surface, then the dust sort of materialize as foreign objects on a painted surface.
  16. I just want to pop in here and announce my disgust at Revell's annoying boxes, that only has an opening on the ends. I prefer the boxes with a lid that can be removed, much more useful imo.
  17. 1) Can I expect to have the option to buy needles for most/all sizes for any popular airbrush model? 2) If I want to paint plastic models, size 30-40 cm in length, is there a preferred needle size for that if the model is a lengthy ship hull? 3) Is there a preferred needle size for applying a base coat to a plastic model of about 30-40 cm in length? 4) What air pressure is recommended for when spraying on a mist of paint, presumably so that the paint goes on wet in wet? 5) I am thinking of buying a cheaper compressor commonly named "AS-196, is this one more noisy due to it having two pistons (as opposed to the model only having one)? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Airbrush-Compressor-AS196-Cylinder-Switch/dp/B0036SZ80U 6) When painting models with an airbrush and finishing with a coat, matte, semi-gloss or gloss, should the first layer of paint over the base coat ideally be gloss or matte paint? 7) If say a plastic ship hull has been sanded and a little scratched and not ending up being 100% smooth, does applying a base coat help to make the surface smoother? 8) If airbrushing a layer of color over a base coat, how long must this paint dry before proceeding, if being enamel paint? 9) If airbrushing a layer of color over a base coat, how long must this paint dry before proceeding, if being acrylic paint? 10) Will it get messy if you put on many coats, of any combination of base coat, paint and finish? What is the best method for applying all these things? 11) When using a decent ultrasonic cleaning device for cleaning the airbrush, can the liquid be reused? 12) Can bottles of acrylic paint be idle on the shelf for a year, without getting weird? (I bought some stuff, but don't airbrush yet, so I'm wondering if the stuff is going bad over time.)
  18. I am close to finishing building the Trumpeter 1:350 John Brown Liberty ship, and wish there were more kits of older transport ships to get.
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