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Everything posted by Richard502

  1. Langtree "The Kelly's", p.51: "In the Mediterranean Jervis had a broad red circle painted on her No 3 mount deck..."Anyone know where that circle was painted (underneath the mount, aft or in front of it), and how broad it may have been? Langtee gives Connell, "Mediterranean Maelstrom" as source. TIA, Richard
  2. Superb build and paint job, Sir! Greetings from Austria. Richard
  3. Mikesh, "Japanese Aircraft Interiors 1940 - 1945", p.226 on the Judy: "There are few original source examples from which to make accurate color determination...One might assume that interior colors would follow closely those of other Japanese Naval aircraft of this late-war period, of which color samples have been recorded." He does mention one (1) original Judy component, a throttle: "If one were to assume the green on this sub-component were close to the overall interior, this piece was a close visual match to Munsell 7.5GY 3/4 and A/N32. These are closer to the best Pantone sample which was 5747C, and which is not as yellow as the part examined." Hope this helps, Richard
  4. Great built, Sir! Boy do I hate it when the manufacturers come up with crappy landing gear* on a great kit! I followed Hasegawa's instructions and tried to install the lg after closing the fuselage: had a lot of fun, which serves me right for not thinking ahead. *Trimaster/Dragon FW190 and Me 262 are of that breed. Richard
  5. Looking forward to the new thread, as both your modelling and writing skills are vastly superior to Kate Bush's singing. Richard
  6. Flyhawk's "Kelly" is on the slipways to replace the venerable Matchbox kit. I have got a tin of WEMCC RN18 Mountbatten Pink: is this to be used straight out of the tin, lightened or darkened to represent HMS Kelly "as sunk"? And while we are at it: what needs to be changed to convert a 1940 Kelly to the 1941 state of equipment? TIA, Richard
  7. Hi John "Kitchen Modeler"! Will follow your build with great interest as I am planning to do the new Eduard kit as Petie 2nd, using Super Scale sheet 48-591. Is that one of the good ones or does it have some issues? From the photo you posted I learnt that the grille is NM, and the name looks like it is some color, while SS renders it in white.. Richard
  8. Is there a specific mix or is it free for all? TIA, Richard
  9. Great job! In particular I admire the perfect canopy frames. And finally I do now what my builds are by the "Britmodeller Standard Grading System": straight Fs! Richard
  10. Bubble on the underside: does that mean you are talking Bf 109E? Owl did a conversion set in 1/48. The set had a vacformed(?) bubble, some photo etch, and decals, IIRC. You will find instructions on the web, although the set is out of production. Richard
  11. Looks like Model Monkey does one, but it's "not for sale". Go figure. Do you know of any other source? Richard
  12. The tools available: an Olfa razor saw, various drill bits, sanding sticks and sanding paper, modeling knife. The theory is to cut off the major part of the plug with 3 Olfa-cuts at 120 degree angle to each other along the rear end of the nacelle. But what about the curved front end of the landing gear bay? The razor saw is out for the part: do I drill? Chisel? Chip with a knife.... Help, please! Richard
  13. 1) Did Ju88G-6s carry any stencils (fuel triangles etc)? None of the various decal sheets have any (well, AIMS does provide no-walk-lines), nor do they show placement. Is there any information on stencil placement available? 2) Mounting the MG131 at the rear of the canopy on a Dragon 1/48 kit, the cloth cuff of the MG131 fits only on the inside of the armored circular gun mount. Is that the way it's supposed to be or should the barrel protrude farther (i.e., should the cloth cuff be flush with the inside or the outside of the mount)? I could not find any photos of the mount on a Ju88G, only on Ju188s, and these do look quite different from the kit parts. Richard
  14. Well, I have ordered the book. Thank you for the recommendations! Sound like an interesting read and a perfect opportunity to brush up on the rusty French. Richard
  15. The book will be useful for the painting stage of Dora Wings forthcoming Bloch 151, but I would like to hear your opinion on this book before shelling out 50 Euros. Richard
  16. Was away on holidays, therefore the late answer. I am using Xtracolor quick drying thinners on Xtracolor enamels, and MrColor Thinner on WEM/Sovereign Hobbies Colourcoats. No thinner with the offending Alclad thinner. Thank you for the information regarding amber-hued thinners. Good to know the bottles are still ok! Richard P.S.: the clear coat on the Hs123 has cured! Took only 4 weeks.
  17. Here I was happily decaling an Gaspatch Hs 123, and sealed it with a coat of Alclad 2 Klear Kote (a thin layer). As usual, the Klear Kote would not dry, two weeks after application it was still slightly sticky to the touch, leaving no fingerprints though. So i put the model on its back and glued on the bombs. Then I stupidly left it that way for a day. When I turned it back onto it's wheels the Klear Kote had stuck to the workbench, ripping off the upper wing Balkenkreuz decals. Now I have to 1) Toss the offending bottle of Klear Kote Gloss (done) 2) Buy/beg/steal a new set of Balkenkreuz decals (the are decal No. 02 for the Menapace paint scheme in the Gaspatch B1 version, IF you have got them are are willing to sell them) 3) Remove the remnants of the old ones, and here is question No. 1: How? The paint is Xtracolor enamel that was not damaged by the sticking-episode, and I would rather not sand the decals off. Should I try to dissolve the decal glue with hot water, or try to rip them off with sticky tape? Question No.2: bottles of Xtracolor Satin and Flat varnish on my shelf are an opaque, deep amber color. It that how it's suppused to be or are these bottles gone? TIA, Richard
  18. I'm almost done with building Shishkin's "red 18" of 812 IAP, using Montex Masks. It was great fun, and am looking forward to your build report. Richard
  19. Specifically "W7 + AC" of Stab II/NJG 100 in 1944. TIA, Richard
  20. Thank you for the warning! In the end, I made some paper stencils for the wings and tailplane (AIMS decal instruction sheet scaled up to 1/48), sprayed a little color through the stencil and freehanded the rest around these spots. Thanks to Harder & Steenbeck that did work out quite well. Next hurdle will be the radar array. Richard
  21. I can post messages at Maritime WIP, but not on Aircraft WIP....well, at least I can not access the message and suspect that others can not, either.
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