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Richard502

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  1. dickrd: the 2-tone scheme is convincing. So it will be G10 with B30 or G45: there will be time yet for a hundred indecisions, and for a hundred visions and revisions before the choice between G45 and B30. Is there something darkish (or 3-dimensional) on the rear half of gun shields A + B? A dark stained canvas cover?
  2. Jamie@SovereignHobbies and dickrd, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! As usual, an answer raises two new questions: 1)Jamie suggests "from darkest to lightest G10, B30 and G45", and dickrd suggests B30 as the bow and stern color. If so, what would be a logical paint for the central panel? 2) The stack appears to be very light, lighter than the central panel: is that a fourth color, or just a trick of light, dried salt spray on the stack....?
  3. what were her colors as seen in this photo, and when was the photo taken? https://uboat.net/allies/warships/ship/4485.html
  4. Compared to the kit barrels, the Master barrels are 3mm longer if fitted to the kit's barrels with sleeves (part K4), and more than 5mm short if fittet to the kit barrels w/o sleeve (part K8), presuming I am to cut off the barrel at the forward end of the sleeve or at the trunnion respectively. The Master instructions are not helpful to this modeler of moderate intelligence.
  5. Thank you, Our Ned, for the comprehensive and precise information!
  6. 1) Starting from the Trumpeter 1/700 kit nr. 05795 for "Warspite 1942", what changes are necessary to show her as at Matapan? 2) Are the kit instructions for camouflage correct for that time, in particular the white areas (bridge top, turrets A and Y etc.), or is the camouflage pattern in Ensign 4 by Raven & Roberts (also for 1942) more accurate and applicable?
  7. Walter, thank you very much! So piping for the mid-cockpit tank could run internally, which saves the trouble of bending some wire in 3 dimensions.
  8. Tanks to Ian Gazeley I have got 3 photos showing tank and fuel line at/near the cockpit: how far forward did the fuel line run before re-entering the fuselage, or wherever it went? P.S.: Ian provided these photos back in April 2002, so it took me 20 years to actually start this build!
  9. Our Ned: Thank you for the information & the links! dickrd: the instructions call the scheme "Admiralty Light Disruptive Type". Knowing virtually nothing about RN camouflage schemes I copied that. So the learning curve is steep!
  10. The instructions for Atlantic Models 1/700 kit do give a starboard side view of an Admiralty Light Disruptive Type camouflage. Was the port side identical?
  11. in this case it's Tamiya's P/E set for their 1/48 Swordfish. I doubt the paint (Xtraclor enamel) will adhere perfectly to the shiny steel.
  12. Model is Tamiya, decals for "4A" Aeromaster. Paint tins (enamels only) that might be appropriate in stash are: Xtracolor "Tire Black" and "Gloss Sea Blue"; Color Coats US04 "Early 1942 5D Dark Gray", Humbrol HU21 "Gloss Black", Mr. color 137 "Tire Black". Which one of these do you think is closest, or do I have to buy a new tin of paint?
  13. Re. "4A": 1) can the difference in appearance of the black distemper in the pics iang posted (dirty faded grey in the on-dec pic versus shiny black in the Italian photo) be explained by 4A's immersion in Taranto harbor? Would wet fabric make the paint look glossy? 2) was the auxiliary tank camouflaged? In the photo showing the code the tank's rear face looks two-colored. 3) what was the purpose of painting the code on the tank? To reassure the gunner he was in the right plane? 4) some photos of Swordfish with folded wings show the individual code repeated inside the wing fold. Do I see a white "A" on the on-deck photo of "4A" on the lower wing-fold?
  14. Seahawk: yes, wrong wiki entry. look for emperor Friedrich I., aka Barbarossa Richard
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