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Bozothenutter

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Posts posted by Bozothenutter

  1. You might want to into resistance soldering.

    It's a bit like spotwelding with less amps.

    Made my own rig with a 10A 2-12V transformer, footpedal, steel base plate

    Modded a solderingiron handle with a pin vise, which holds pencil refills ( up to 3.2mm).

    Add some soldering paint (or grind some solder) .

    Heats up so quickly there is no risk of de- soldering something near.

    Steel baseplate allows me to hold/position stuff with magnets and acts as a heat sink.

    The modded iron/pinvise

    20180517-154852.jpg

    No worries, below is just a test setup.

    20180517-154843.jpg

     

     

  2. 3 hours ago, tank152 said:

    For those that don't know about the Australian War Memorial G-6

    The red primer on the coolant tanks and engine bearers is not original. 

    So did somebody 'preserve' the engine area by spraying it red?

    Are there any pics of that time.....a full red engine area.....😱

  3. Pictures of restored aircraft are not the best way to illustrate your point.

    They would only have value with either a colour chart or grey chart in the frame.

    Colours change with exposure, use of flash, presence of UV light.

    Then they can change again in post processing, and if you want to go that far print.

    As far as I know RLM66 is quite a known entity.

    If restored aircraft seem lighter, I would check with either the restorers or the paint suppliers.

    For all we know they used a colour analyser, or not, or matched to RAL.

    Unless we have an answer from the museun, we know nothing....

    • Like 3
  4. Asked the same a while ago, all drawings are suspect!

    Was looking for the layout of hatches on Jumo 109 wings....no set of drawings agreed with either the kit or each other.

    Cross refencing with pictures tells me why....no clear pics of some area's 1🤷🏾‍♂️

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, Mick4350 said:

    I too am cursed with being pedantic. It's like seeing the new Airfix Firefly Vc tank with its hull mounted machine gun on the boxart. They corrected the missing tail planes on their English Electric Lightning F.6, so why not correct this oversight too please.

    Then what would we do? 😈

  6. On 5/27/2021 at 3:05 AM, Corsairfoxfouruncle said:

    I couldn't do it. I’m not a rivet counter by any means but my OCD just wouldn't allow me to do that. One of the reasons I never do the blitzbuilds here. 

    I feel ya!

    I too have been cursed with an eye for detail and am a sucker for the thought "could I make that in xxx scale"

    • Like 1
  7. My intro to scale modeling,  at a dinner party with my parents, the hosts teenage son showed me some of his models (only ones I remember are the Yamaha Crosser and some sort of custom chopper)

    He was working on something military and allowed me to glue one if the figures.

    A German officer type (Rommel?) and curiously I remember the figure being seperated by a diagonal cut at the knees. 

    Still no idea what kit it was(Airfix Halftack?)

    • Like 2
  8. 20 minutes ago, Steben said:

     

    Tomas Chory's 1001 Elfenbein almost matches modern 1001 Beige .... just saying.... very odd.
    While there are wartime swatches showing bright ivory colours just like todays 1014 and 1015.... So I read your message as Beige became common and was named "Beige" after the war.
    Many early "swatch" colours match modern "swatch" colours

    we're probably saying the same thing, but let me clarify (not sure what you mean with "beige became common")

    I THINK it goes like this, (only for elfenbein mind you)

     

    RAL1001 Elfenbein WW2 (chose this picture because it shows several swatches in one shot)

    Looks like ivory, makes sense to use this inside a tank.

    1511593100.jpg

     

    then in 1961 RAL1001 became this, making modellers think this was what was used in the interior of tanks.

    ral1001beige.jpg

     

    while elfenbein was moved up numerically to RAL1014 and RAL1015

    1014

    ral1014elfenbein-278-0.jpg

     

    1015

    ral1015hellelfenbein-478-0.jpg

     

     

     

    Heretic thought........could Chory have been fooled by the modern RAL1001? (running away to hide!)

     

     

    • Thanks 1
  9. 32 minutes ago, jackroadkill said:

    Maybe what we need is a GB where participants get two hours in which to build and paint a kit, like we used to when we were nippers.  We could prohibit the use of filler, abrasives, masks, airbrushes, washes, pigments, varnish coats and liquid cement.  I'd give it a go.

    I really like this!

    webcams on and full audio and video for chat mode....🤔

    • Like 1
  10. 9 hours ago, malpaso said:

     

     

    But the RAL Design range was set up in the 90s and the RAL organisation was closed down by the Nazis in 1942 so none of this helps your wartime colour conundrum.

    for WW2 you should use RAL840R, not 840HR.

    RAL standards office was not closed down, the RAL colours were switched around in 1961.

    the best known effect of this i'm aware of was the RAL1001 'elfenbein' colour, in 840R it is an ivory colour, while in the later version it becomes beige....leading to a lot of German armour modellers not aware of this switch painting interiors beige.....

     

    If this book ever becomes available...

    https://www.historycolors.de/

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