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Bozothenutter

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Posts posted by Bozothenutter

  1. 1 hour ago, Das Abteilung said:

    Well that says it all about kit manufacturer research.........

     

    But all is not lost.  Don't forget that tyres wore down in use.  Those dimensions are new. So you have some leeway on the overall diameter for worn tyres. But if that worn they would probably have lost a few chunks too. Amusing may have measured worn tyres.

    thanks for the encouraging words!

    Will continue on the 'real' wheel and make a second version with adjustments to make it suitable for 3D printing, good practice with Fusion.

  2. sometimes it helps drawing stuff to visualize.....

     

    left is the 'real' wheel, right  the kit wheel.

    If I'd only have to make subtractive changes, I'd have gone ahead, but this needs addition of material in the tire, the rim and the hart......too much work.

    I may just reprofile the tire a bit and add the grooves. @Das Abteilung

    compare.jpg

  3. 21 minutes ago, cmatthewbacon said:

    While we're on the wild cards... I'd really love to see a Gordon Murray T.50 from Tamiya. It's the kind of thing that might just catch the attention of an influential Tamiya product dude. Given how many F1's ended up in Japan I suspect it's on the radar there with rich petrolheads... Plus doing that engine properly is in FXX-K territory...

    best,

    M.

    That must be why they did the F1.......😉

  4. On 1/20/2022 at 8:29 PM, fishplanebeer said:

    As I'm a dedicated 'enamel' user it looks like AK Interactive is the way to go so just a few quick supplementary questions if I may please.

     

    1. What is the best/correct colour primer to be used?
    2. What is the best/correct varnish to apply pre and post decaling? (I normally use enamel varnishes)
    3. How sensitive is the paint to handling both pre and post varnishing? (I normally use non-latex surgical gloves during the painting process)

     

    Sorry if this all a bit basic but the last time I used silver paint was Humbrol with a brush when I was 12 years old and the results were not great, especially when it came to trying to apply another non-metallic paint along side or over it - it just became a sparkly indistinct smudge!

     

    Regards

    Colin.

     

    Humbrol 11, te paint that NEVER dries......

  5. another question,

    As I'm building mine without the skirts, (or some of them at least, not made my mind up yet) and the period pics show the mounting beams were sometimes removed.

    I was wondering if the welded on mounting plates would have the bolt holes 'bolted', or left empty?

    any tankies know what 'best practice' would be?

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