Bozothenutter
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Posts posted by Bozothenutter
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Dare I ask you for the angles of the front half of the frame?
I'm looking for the vertical side tubes, as I'm trying to solder a frame in 1/32.
I have a drawing from a book, that gives diameters and lengths, but it's omitted the angles and I've no proper way of measuring.
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3 hours ago, Ali62 said:
Hi I now have four sets, two for Revell and two for Tamiya. I have the set for the NF.I for Revell if that is what you are asking about. Go to aerocraftmodels.com and look at either the new releases page or the 1/48 scale page.
hope this helps
Thanks, I must be blind.....
Not THAT blind, the 1.F set doesn't show up on Scalemates.
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Will you be doing a set for the 1.F as well?
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Hoping the D-9 makes it over here......
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4 hours ago, Cklasse said:
I just bought a RFM leopard 2A6. It’s good and better than Tamiya.
Wot 'e zed
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Not a lot of reactions, but thanks!
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14 hours ago, RJP said:
Postage is a common complaint but the effect can be ameliorated somewhat.
Individual items don't weigh much, you are mostly paying for attention from the postal services so it is possible to depress the unit cost by buying multiple items. One retailer I like suggests getting together with a couple of friends to buy in bulk. Yes, it increases his sales but also saves a few bucks. He assumes, rather kindly, that I have friends.
I recently ordered several decal sheets from Hannants. The three sheets came to less than 22 pounds (no VAT on exports) but postage was another 11 pounds international signed. Was it worth it? Yes, it was to me. A special purchase to clear some of the stash and I really didn't need anything else.
I can say that Ultracast sets a fine example for customer service. In fact, before I finally retired I had a gig teaching customer service and routinely cited them as an example of how things ought to be done. Quick, efficient and friendly.
My kinda guy!
Solves postage by ordering more....
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I put some links in the pinned post a few weeks ago.
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Aviattic only just shipped my order from Jan 3....only got an explanation after I asked.
I understand the reason, but do, DO communicate!
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No experience, but following to learn.
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Could a lasercutter conceivably be used to create PE like details?
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Master are being really nice and sending me a new PE set.
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Actually making nickel acetate atm.
Attepmting nickel plating and then blueing that....
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After drying:
After a light rub with an old T:
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On 2/19/2023 at 11:07 AM, Phil1960 said:
Thank you. I found this Atak zimmerit for Panther A late. It looks good.
Ciao
Filippo
They do zimmeritt for all the different factories, so check references for the tank you're building.
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8 hours ago, tempestfan said:
Aerofax 4 should have a number of cockpit pics in differing configurations, and usually their captions were comprehensive. They should give you a clue about the visual differences of various mod states at given times.
That's the one I'm on about!
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2 hours ago, ColonelKrypton said:
Good idea. I noted your earlier comment on pickling liquid. Why dilute the cleaning vinegar 50/50 and not use it as is?
Pickle is used by jewellers for cleaning oxides and flux off of soldered pieces. Also used by those building small working model steam engines and locomotives for basically the same reason - removing surface scale ( oxides ) and flux after soldering. There is a wide variety of pickle to choose from, a number of commercial products and numerous home made variations as well. Typically kept in something like an old crock pot in order to warm the pickle which makes it much more effective. You might find the cleaning vinegar more effective if placed in a bath of warm to hot water.
In your use the cleaning vinegar is probably not only helping by cleaning the surface of the brass but also etching it slightly which would provide a bit tooth for the following bluing step.
cheers, Graham
No real reason really, it was what was mentioned on one of the many pages I encountered in my search.
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Psa: do not forget your PE in the blueing solution it turns to dust....
Second attempt went better though.
2 min in 50/50 cleaning vinegar
Rinse
1 min in Birchwood casey 'brass black' 50/50 with demineralised water
Rinse and let dry.
Smooth looking finish, could be rubbed with a soft cloth, eventually shows darkish brass.
Trying the 'blue' version for steel next.
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Not read it, but might be some info here.
I vaguely remember a small profile book having the cockpit pages from the manual reproduced.
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Mine was from the MBK batch...
Really hoping Meng (or somebody) can work out a deal in the future...
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Been reading up on this....
Apparently pickling liquid is a big help....trying some vinegar next.
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I'm trying to get barrels to look like, well blued steel barrels. Hence the tryout of gunsmith stuff. (Birchwood-Casey, got them for steel and brass)
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7 hours ago, ttyng0904 said:
Someone in France is trying 80 ans scheme.
Bloody hell that is cool!
I'll just wait for Syhart though.....
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Have used several modelling brands, even stuff that gunsmiths use.
Lightly sand, cleaned with acetone, or brake cleaner, or alcohol.
But nothing sticks....a sooty layer forms, that can be removed by looking at it angrily....with still shiny brass underneath
1/48 - Consolidated B-24J Liberator by HobbyBoss - release in 2023-2024
in The Rumourmonger
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Will not buy outright, awaiting the wailing and gnashing of teeth as Trumpyboss snatch defeat from the jaws of victory once again.
They're prolific, but soooooo inconsistent. A pity really as they make good kits of interesting subjects.