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theskits62

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Everything posted by theskits62

  1. Thanks for the tip Rob, I'll bear that in mind when i eventually get to the painting stage. I'd love to be able to get the lovely worn look you achieve on your work, presumably you thin the oils before applying ? ALso does it work better on a matt or gloss surface. I have an old airfix HE111 glued up and primed ready to go as my crash test dummy when i get to this stage.
  2. Brilliant work, this is going to be stunning when complete.
  3. That looks fantastic, at this rate you 'll be done by new year ! On the PE presumably black is unetched and red/blue are half etched (front or rear) ? Really looking forward to seeing this one come together as you add all the detail.
  4. Absolutely amazing work, I hope you don't mind but i've actually saved a few of these images to help me with my work on Lancelot. What sort of specification PC do you use for all your CAD work, its an area i would love to explore when i have time ??
  5. Thanks for the useful link. At the moment the model is mostly just primed and all the parts are just loose fitted so that when i eventually get around to painting (soon hopefully) I can reach all of the nooks and crannies. The ship will be painted almost entirely in NARN20, with NARN23 on the decks/non-slip surfaces and NARN42 on the lower hull. The hull at least has a base coat in place although this will be revisited later to add weathering and to pull the tones back to scale a bit with oil washes and filters. This will be something new to me so i'll be practicing first on an old kit from the attic. This is the look I'll be trying to achieve, worn but not too battered... From photos it looks like Lancelot didn't carry a pennant or boot topping and that the top of the funnel was painted black.
  6. That's a very kind offer, thankyou. Next time i get stuck for a part I may ask for your help ! I would like to find the time to do some 3d printing myself but since i haven't retired yet I already spend 8 hours a day behind a PC screen so i think i will wait until i can justify the screen time..... Thanks Again Brett
  7. Despite not having posted any progress for a few weeks I have been quite busy building the multitude of boxes, vents and other assorted bits and pieces that seem to cover the deck. None of them are particularly photo genic on their own but in the spirit of a "warts and all" thread i thought i'd post an update since over the last few days i've also jobbed a couple of the larger components:- - wood paneling and ships wheel on the bridge interior (oil paint currently curing so no pics of this). It will probably be invisible once the compass deck is fitted but I'd always know the bridge was empty if i didn't do it ! - lifeboat platform (currently dry fitted with the aid of some blu-tak) - depth charge racks - main mast/jib - fencing for the main bridge The depth charge racks were from Shapeways but were actually for triple charges rather than 2 on each side that these ships carried. My cunning plan was to remove the middle section and shorten them to the correct size, what i didn't factor in was just how brittle printed resin is. Even the most careful razor sawing resulting in multiple cracks and breaks so i ended up with 2 very fiddly jigsaw puzzles so next time i think i'll just add these to the list of items to make from PE. The curved fencing around the bridge will actually be covered in splinter matting. The original plan was to add normal railings and then attach splinter matting to these but i think the chances of doing this without irretrievably bending the railings was very small so the new approach was to use 0.25mm card as the basis for the these, fitting railings to the inside and then matting to the outside. I suspect this will also be very tricky but we'll see ! The plan is to sculpt the matting from Das or the like. I made a wooden template so i could bend the plastic to the correct shape but in the end found that it was easier to roll the card around a dowel to create the curves and then attach this once the shape was reasonably close. Its starting to feel like the build phase is getting close completion, I've still got to deal with the winch/windlass and I'll probably bin the first pass at the gallows and re do those too. There are still also quite a few minor bits to make (shell cases, yet more boxes etc). The only other big job on the build side is designing the PE sheet that i will need for railings, ladders etc. Hopefully i'll deal with this over the xmas break. Anyway hope everyone has a great Xmas/New Year and i'll post another update in early 2024 !
  8. That is looking superb and as always i'm in awe of your metalworking skills. Just one question this time, with the rear gun pedestal that you lathed how will you deal with fitting this when the deck has a noticeable camber and presumably a flat bottom face would lead to gaps at the sides ? Thanks Brett
  9. Lovely job, this is also one of my all time favourite jet aircraft - judging by the other comments there are clearly lots of other closet Vigilante fans out there !!
  10. Looks like an interesting subject so i am going to pull up a seat ! I've always said that one day I'll attempt one of these sailing ships but don't feel quite ready for the challenge yet...
  11. Thats a great looking result and you can be justifiably proud. Well done, I'm looking forward to following your next build.
  12. I feel your pain re the airbrushing. I'm learning the art too and it can feel like slow progress. Truth be told i'd rather brush paint any day but on larger areas an airbrush gives a much better result. I'm still a novice but here are a few pointers from my experience that might help. paint consistency is key different paints (even from the same manufacturer/range) often need to be thinned differently, even the ambient temp can have an impact don't try to paint a subject in one pass, several thin coats are usually needed. A thin coat will dry quickly so that by the time you reach one end of the subject you can usually go back to the start for the second pass etc (on my current project it took 4 thin coats done in one sitting and that was a dark grey over mid grey primer) there are a lot of videos on youtube that i found very helpful (basic stuff and more advanced) use an airbrush station and a mask. You can buy them ready made or just rig up a box with some sort of extractor fan in the back. In my experience priming is a must, i tend to use a rattle can or brush with a light sand for the brush marks if necessary as i find the primer has a tendency to not clean from an airbrush nozzle as easily as regular paint.
  13. Somehow i missed this one first time around, i can only repeat what everyone else has said, a beautiful model and stunning seascape, i can't quite get my head around the fact that the water was mostly carved out of wood !
  14. Thanks for the tip. Project is moving along but progress is slow unfortunately. I need to retire so i can get focused !! Busy on the multitude of small bits and pieces that seem to cover the decks at the moment and then the winch and windlass which will be complicated !
  15. Very glad to see you back on the forum, it is a much richer place with your honesty and humour. Great work on the Renard, the planking looks very neat.
  16. Looks great - possibly a daft question but why did you soft solder the top face instead of hard ? Is it just down the fact that the top face joint doesn't need the same strength as the hard soldered parts ?
  17. This project gets more amazing by the day ! What software are you using to create those figures they look brilliant ??
  18. Back to work this week so only a little bit of progress. After the lifeboat i went back to the main superstructure and started picking off some of the multitude of smaller jobs there. The really fiddly job was adding the steps and handrail. The steps where done using a drilled template to give an even spacing etc. The railings originally were going to be made of 0.2mm copper wire but i was worried about damaging them once fitted so in the end i went for 0.2mm fishing line which won't lose its shape if when i accidentally bump it later. These are done by inserting short lengths of micro brass tube at the end positions and threading the line through running it across small plastic rod struts in between and then back through the tube at the other end. There is a whole mess of glue and knots on the inside which obviously won't be visible. The trickiest part was curving the rail around the front of the superstucture under the wheelhouse. In the end i taped a piece of card curved to shape and that gave the line something to follow. Once the line was glued into place the card was carefully teased out. The only problem with the line is that it seems reluctant to take paint !!
  19. Lovely metalwork going on here. How did you get the shape of those side plates so precise ? I can understand with the roundhouse as there is an axis of symmetry but that sweeping curve ?? Did you use a wooden template and form it around that.
  20. Thanks David, i am pleased with the way it turned out and tbh i needed the mojo boost, there are times when i think i've bitten off way more than i can chew with this one and many days where at the end of a good 7 hour stint i feel like i've actually gone backwards. Anyway i'm trying to focus on some smaller jobs now before i take the plunge and attempt the main winch and windlass.
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