malpaso

Just come back from setting up, ready for tomorrow. Looking forward to seeing lots of you; bring lots of cash to spend on the Tombola which yours truly will be running!

A fairly easy option would be to graft the Aeroclub vacform conversion fuselage's nose onto a more modern Vc, IX or VIII fuse and sort out wings with various spares. The Aero club comes with a nice white metal prop and exhausts. I have two but then ended up with two Xtrakit XII kits. These four and a Brigade XII decal sheet cost about twenty quid all told at various shows. I'll let you all stew in your jealousy! 😎

If the adjacent building is listed, any part of it and it’s “curtilege” would form part of the listing and therefore need at least “Listed Building Consent” from the council.

Have you tried warming the decals? I have a coffee warmer that can keep the decals nice and warm so the thicker ones seem to snuggle down nicely.

This looks like it’s coming together nicely. I assume it will have the kits 6-cylinder so will you nail the bonnet shut or is there a cunning plan (or just assume re-engined from a 109)?

I generally use all acrylics nowadays, but in the past have happily painted acrylic over enamel and vice versa without any problems. I even accidentally mixed acrylic and enamel for a colour once; despite it curdling it brushed on okay and dried out fine. Not recommended practice though!

Very nice build. Im doing the hardtop version but it’s got bogged down at the clear coat stage. Probably not even appropriate for a really glossy finish anyway!

Yes, that’s what I originally bought the warmer for; then realized the aerosol warming option!

Here’s a tip for anyone using cans to paint models or whatever. Instead of putting the cans in hot water for a while to ginger up the propellant and make the paint flow nicely I bought an electric coffee warmer pad. Mine runs off mains but there’s usb versions too, and generally less than the price of one paint aerosol. Sit the can on the warmer for a few minutes it gets nice and warm (limited to 65C) and the paint agitator works as soon as you shake the can and the paint spray’s beautifully. Works great now, even more useful in the colder seasons. cheers Will

Sorry guys, decided I can’t bring myself to strip it and start the finishing all over, at least for now. I’m too annoyed at 3months effort being messed up by a poor choice of primer. I may revisit in due course but not for this GB. My wife suggested I start another kit to cheer me up. I think she meant from the stash, but it was the Salisbury show on Saturday so… I bought and have started the Aoshima Liberty Walk 4-door Hakosuka (60s Skyline) which looks suitably mad, though apparently a real car from photos. It’s a recent kit from 2015, but the core seemed somewhat vintage with chassis parts showing past motorisation; Scalemates dates the base Skyline 2000Gt kit as 1981! So it could have been suitable for this GB but I won’t do so as I would rather not rush. Good luck with everyone’s entries, there’s some nice completions appearing in the gallery.

Oh dear. That’s sad. I usually end up with a little bit of bleed; I usually try to lay the black on as dry and little thinned as far as possible to avoid, more usually the paint finds gaps in odd nooks and crannies in the masking! Number one rule I’ve found is to try to minimize the number of separate pieces of tape surrounding an area to be painted as each joint is a potential capillary action route for paint - the light coat of brushed clear can help with this but I’ve had this clear then migrate down the capillary so a (slightly easier) clean up can still be required. Alternatively I’ve hand brushed citadel Matt Black having only masked locally; not as slick looking but less prone to disaster! On a couple of cars I just did the black before glossing / clear coat as it’s much easier to blow in matching repairs before clear. My 40 Ford Coupe probably got touched in around 20% of the bodywork where black or chrome had bled or over sprayed. If there are a lot of decal like a competition car I’ll also use the black etc before clear method as I do not want masking tape anywhere near decals - YouTube seems full of people who can do this successfully but it seems 2k is the vital ingredient but I don’t want to go down that route. Another reason for black etc first is I use acrylic clear coat ( either W&N or Tam X-22) but with Tam X-20A; either of these take quite a few coats to get a reasonable shine, and then the body left for a week or two before it feels properly hard! That’s when the rest of the car gets built (I hope). Hope this helps Cheers Will

Pledge would have been the then current name of Future / Klear / whatever it’s called by Johnson this week. Keep an eye out in your local hardware shop, ours had two bottles the other day but I already have enough to cover my SABLE

I just rechecked the can and it has a small badge saying “acrylic plus formula” so maybe the mystery solved. 😭

Aaaaaarrrrgggghhh! Disaster! Having got a pretty nice aluminium finish, I was trying to mask up some contrasting panels. Paint has pulled off in sheets, no bond whatsoever between the primer and the plastic. It’s carplan primer and I’ve never had auto primer fail to bond before. That said the Hasegawa plastic is very hard and slick so maybe that’s the issue? Not sure how to proceed with this; I think I’ll just have to step away and revisit in a while…

Around the corner from home last night, a very complete and smart looking rally replica TR7. Brief glimpse of badge on side may have said 4.0 so presumably V8. I will have to keep an eye (and ear) out for it again if it’s local…

If the OP is just looking to replenish his stash there must be plenty on here who could help! I’ve plenty that’ll realistically not get built I’d be more than happy to unload at shop RRP! 😁 Just joking… or am I?

Lots of outside issues have killed the mojo, so progress slow. First bit of black priming for the bare metal finish started though: Last year the Vallejo Metal Color system worked perfectly for me on Razor Crest; this year I can’t get a consistent result, blockages, splurts and poor finish. Oh well I’ll keep trying…

Re increase of chord with Span, that doesn’t seem to have been a thing in WW1, necessarily. There are plenty of examples where the span was increased by extra length,I guess once an airfoil was tooled up or jigged it was easier to increase area by extra ribs than a new airfoil / chord. The most notorious example being the DH6 wing apocryphally sold by the yard…

Saw a hideous (aren’t they all) Porsche SUV the other day in Alresford. I would have hoped who I assume owned it would have had better taste than to apply his BRDC badged P1ATO to such a monstrosity…

Airfix were repopping all sorts of Japanese kits in the 70s, so I guess the Bora is one of these. Scalemates is only as good as the input so may not always be correct. There’s a post on ATF suggesting it’s Eidai (also know as Grip or Eidaigrip), but then there also seems to have been a lot of tool-sharing or selling-on in theJapanese kit field at the time. Lovely build of the model btw. I parked next to a Bora at an event a few years ago and it still looked modern.

I have an old wood Mosquito that has paper interior and metal (skybird?) crew. But a method I’ve seen from Japanese solid modellers is to cut a block out of the fuselage, carve it out as needed then reset in place with shims for the saw cuts.

In the local market square this morning a real pair of opposites. An immaculate black Daimler SP250 (aka Dart) top down sitting across the road from an equally shiny gunmetal Lamborghini Huracan Evo Spider (top up). I imagine both drivers were visiting their respective dentists after enduring the local roads, I mean potholes separated by short lengths of disintegrating tarmac!

That’s a nice tidy looking engine. I may have to look out for one of these kits.

Looks a nice build; I’ve not actually seen one in that colour scheme, but there’s been plenty in other paint choices, so why not? 😀 You may want to edit the title of the thread as your model is a Land Rover rather than a Range Rover. You can change the thread title by editing the first post. cheers

Actually Magnolia paint (in the UK at least) IS a standard colour to BS4800 “Magnolia BS08B15”. In theory all makes should look similar subject to batching etc though I’m not aware of the allowable tolerances in BS4800. Widely used by developers for new housing as it’s cheap (in trade BS4800 ranges) and the beige/cream is not likely to offend prospective buyers or tenants…