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malpaso

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Everything posted by malpaso

  1. Looks like a cool transkit. Bit spendy once you get the kit + body kit + wheels + decals; even if you don’t get the chassis upgrade. Maybe it’s 1/24 Ford Tax! Tempted by possibility of a road car though. 🤣
  2. On Sunday passed a TR7 whilst out cycling . On a trailer and it looked a real project. Probably it should have been in a body bag. Difficult to see where the metallic brown paint finished and the rust started. I can’t imagine it would have been worth restoring financially! I quite like the proper ones rather than ragtops, but this one was a real tetanus special. I’d mention the chromified V reg MGB that passed me twice, the backdate being the only thing worth mentioning about such things. the guy looked like he was having fun although should have been flogged for having the roof up!
  3. I think Black Dog do or did a resin set and figures to convert the newest Tamiya standard Jeep; not the old SAS one nor the old stock version with trailer I built in the 70s (which still seemed 1000% better than the Italeri one I built around the same time - though it was probably Italaerei then).
  4. I had a 126 bequeathed to me. I still have the plate on register at the DVLA. My late aunt couldn’t face learning a new reg no so had used the same since her first car (pininfarina A40) through many others to the 126. i commuted for 6 months in it, at first seemed small and limited, but once over that and on message, it was enormous fun. Basically driven flat out and 9/10ths for 99% of the time with no danger of a ticket!
  5. I agree too! But reading Doug Nye’s book about Stirling Moss’ cars the AC Ace was about the 4th iteration of the design starting as an MG based special!
  6. I’ve found old 70s Airfix decals work fine, although may have yellowed. Same with Frog of same vintage. So worth trying before bothering with AM.
  7. Nice model and finish you’ve done there. I didn’t realize there was a kit of this car. My dad had a red 2wd 90; it was a nice car but seemed a step down after a 190E and the E21 323i rocket ship that preceded it!
  8. I find way too thick as it comes for airbrush, fine for handbrushing ! So I’ve thinned at least 50/50 with water or windscreen washer or Tamiya X-20a, each with equal success. I do find straight or thinned, whilst touch dry in an hour, it’s a week or more before the varnish feels reasonably hard. I plan to see if it can be thinned with Mr Levelling Thinners, on the grounds that X-20A works! Worst that can happen is a massive airbrush clean required!
  9. malpaso

    Tamiya Acrylic

    I can brush paint small areas using X-20a but usually have more luck using flow improver or retarder, doesn’t seem to matter which!
  10. Sounds like this could be an interesting GB and can give a wide variety. In aviation terms an amphibian type is specifically able to land and take off from land or water at choice. As “invented” by Grover Loening. So normal flying boats or float planes don’t count even when fitted with beaching gear. E.g. for a famous example the Catalina, the PBY-5 would be excluded but a PBY-5A fits the parameters!
  11. A chap locally who showed lots of vac forms, said he would mask and paint all the circumferential frames, and then all the longitudinal ones (or vice versa). It gave good results as many were interwar types with multiple small panes, and he said it was the easiest way he’d found.
  12. Very nice build. I built the same kit but as Dutch option; but to me it was as easy as their single seater - and to be honest I’ve not found them much harder than Eduard. In the stash I have the Brigade version+italeri, which I’m not expecting to be nice process!
  13. I’m sure this will come out well, but I can’t help feeling lengthening the T chassis would be easier? Look forward to the result!
  14. I tried invisible thread but it was impossible to see (!) to do it. Metallic thread or plain monofilament okay but hard to tension, overdid it on a Tiger Moth so top wing slightly askew, but only visible in proper plan view. Most recently I’ve used Prym knitting in elastic, very fine and a £2 roll will rig the aircraft of all the airforces before running out. I’ve also used for 1/72, 1/48 and 1/32 - in any scale I find it’s neutral colour helps the feeling of can you / can’t you see the rigging when observing real biplanes.
  15. Two of these active on UK roads this weekend. Weirdly I saw a white Reliant Kitten in Stockbridge yesterday. Seemed to be in use as a mobile shed rather than restoration. I couldn’t believe how small it seemed (less than a classic Mini?) or when I might have last seen one.
  16. The instructions probably mean clear doped linen. So usually yes a pale cream to off white. Although it would vary depending on age of the material. The underside of British WW1 aircraft remained in such finish even once upper surfaces were coloured for both camouflage and UV/sun protection. Linen covering on French aircraft seems to look slightly darker than British, maybe different linen or dope? I use any pale buff paints, such as Tamiya buff or deck tan. It’s a natural colour so there isn’t a right answer.
  17. I just saw a lovely (black) 1930 Speed Six Bentley with 6-light body in The Square in Winchester. Before I could see I suspected Bentley just by the sound!
  18. Yes, rather attractive colour; though chrome wires somewhat arriviste!
  19. Tamiya GTA repop could ruin my “no stash increase” resolution!
  20. Page 22 and 23 of this document give the modern figures, probably close enough to period for modelling purposes. google is your friend
  21. Halfords white primer, Halfords white (Ford Frozen White iirc); red is airbrushed Tamiya’s acrylic. Then multiple coats of Windsor & Newton acrylic gloss varnish. The main issue is that the acrylic varnish stays soft for a long time. It’s dry in a day or so but won’t feel hard like a lacquer finish for some months! I have some “Mr Levelling Thinners” to try out on a future project to see if that helps. I find applying any kind of clear painful as I can’t see where I’ve been!
  22. I realised I forgot to add the window stickers! I changed the photo again - I added some spacers to the front axle. It looks better, though the wheels would rub on full lock! Not that practicality is a high priority on this car. Thanks for all the kind comments!
  23. Arches fairly easy. I put sellotape over the drawings and made templates over using tamiya tape. Stuck the tam tape shapes on the body and scribed round. On this car the arches cover quite a bit so the cut isn’t too critical. Cheers
  24. I’ve now finished the Liberty Walk Hakosuka that my wife suggested I buy to make up for my B-17 primer disaster. I guess Liberty Walk based this car on a period racer, but the only pictures I could find online seemed to be of this car. The base kit is from the 80s and was motorised. Some of the mechanics for that are still there as are a huge number of spare grilles, lights and so forth. The kit is more or less OOB, cutting the arches for the overfenders was not as bad as expected. The red is mostly paint, it all comes as decals but these were so thick they wouldn’t settle whatever solutions I tried. So just the door stripes are the decals, the rest is done with tape and paint, the number disk on the bonnet took a few goes! Other decals for names and companies laid down beautifully. Altogether it was a nice build, it looks quite bonkers; I have the LBW R35 which is another mad looker in the stash. Obviously a tuner JDM has to have period parcel shelf speakers for some bangin’ tunes! I think I want to do something with a mat finish next! Like a WW2 plane. On the other hand there’s several cars in semi-complete state I ought to work through. I expect I’ll probably go and start another car🤦🏼‍♂️
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